xmoht

I say A E eighty six yes. No one says A E hachiroku though, which is what you seem to be implying. In Japan from what I gather they say A E eight six, so it makes sense. If I were an Australian who thought everything JDM was superior including its language, then I would be saying A E hachi roku, but then that would trump my Australian tendency to say A E eighty six. Ergo only a moron who is caught between two cultures would require AEhachijuuroku. Quite frankly, if you're stupid enough to constantly mix cultural slang, then it probably doesn't matter what is technically correct linguistically as you're no doubt already slaughtering language as it is.

How does that make sense? Who says "I have an AEHachiroku"? They're just multiple ways of interpreting the same thing, a two letter two digit code.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. Though can you elaborate on why you think drifting is not a sport? Unless you don't count figure skating or anything like that as sports either in which case I can see your perspective.

I don't know if I'm interpreting you correctly, but I think its hachi roku because they aren't saying eighty six, they're saying eight six.

Do these things go together with an 80s Corolla donning P plates? If you want a pimp mobile that goes fast and you're on your provisional license, I wouldn't be concerned with police pulling you over. It's going to happen either way, the least you can do is enjoy yourself. Over sized novelty tachometer probably won't do much for any of the things you want to achieve. If over sized novelty tachometer is the first thing in your price range though, go with some lower springs to give you that pimptastic style. As CA-ROLLA said, having low springs will make you an excellent driver as well as make ladies' clitoris enlarge.

Has it been done before? I'm looking to do something different. I have no mechanical skills and I'm looking for something that requires no welding or modifications of any kind, also I'm on my P plates. How would this go fitting into the ke70 engine bay? My friends uncle used to work in transport and my friend said steam engines are more powerul than V8s and they do pull trains so it makes sense. Please provide me with an itemised cost list of everything that will need doing thanks.

Let's hope he's wearing a large piece of the true cross.

When you go drifting what do you find makes it really difficult to sliding?

At most a can will cost you about 30 dollars. If you want to do the whole car however and don't have access to tools or talent, I would recommend getting el cheapo can paint like blzbubb's matte black KE70 or do it with rollers. It was discussed in another thread here but that's the original. As you can see in the thread, it works pretty well and will cost you about the same as getting two or three cans made up of custom paint.

Thought that might be more up your alley. Go to an auto paint store or auto shop like Autobarn and they will make up a spray can for you. Find the colour code first, anyone here can help you find it. If you sand it to bare metal, buy some primer from the store as well, you can even get primer that you apply with a brush. Get some sand paper too and follow any number of painting guides on the net. Mighty Car Mods latest episode is actually about just this topic so maybe give them a hit on youtube. It won't be show room but if you do it right it will look factory to any average passer by, and that's the main thing. Especially if your name is t18drifts, I'm guessing it won't be the last repair you do to the car.

This is possibly the best option for you.

If it's as bad as ke70dave's T18 just get a banner that says Motorfix and stick it to the windscreen. It's a lot cheaper, easier and people will praise you for your amazing style.

Is the rust near the window the size of a five cent piece and is surface rust, or is it thirty centimeters long and a whopping great hole? It could take someone five minutes or two hours. That's why nobody can give you an estimate.

Don't know what product he's using but I use a bit of cut and polishing product like Turtle and it brings the bumpers up to looking like new. Takes off the smallest layer of weathering from the top and the polishing part of the product gives them a nice finish.

So are you asking how to do it or prices for someone else to do it? If by prices you mean cost of materials then someone can probably give you an estimate. Doing it can be done using rust converter, or cutting out the rust and welding in new pieces. Then priming it and painting it.

;) I already bought the 044! Thanks anyway guys, I asked initially after reading one of KE70Daves threads saying he had trouble with it. Never mind! Setting it up for the BEAMS 3SGE so with a decent FPR it should handle the pressure a bit better than the 4AGE I assume. Where's a good place to get aluminium bundy tube Taz?

Haha I bet you love it! This is going to be tops, can't wait for the photos. Will you just be taping everything up or doing a complete strip?

I think we're all aware of your love for the matte, are you going to do the proper matte black job this time or just touching up?

Hello again everybody, busy at Uni so have been trolling less recently but still keeping on with the Rolla. I'm planning on following the Knowledge base fuel tank setup, with the in tank lifter pump going to a surge tank, and a Bosch 044 going to the engine. Questions are: - Is the Bosch 044 high pressure too much? It was designed for the 3.0+ liter engines, and long term I'm looking at a 2.0 liter, short term it's the 4K - If I have my surge tank set up in my boot, are the fuel lines supposed to go through the chassis as they appear in most peoples? Can I run them underneath neatly if I have a top side surge tank? - Most of the decent nationally made surge tanks are at least 1.5 liters, which seems excessive. At Bursons Auto One the only surge tank they have is a Chinese piece of garbage that looks maybe half a liter. What's recommended? Advice is always welcome, telling me not to do this or to do that if it's completely irrelevant is not. No rear seats mean my cabin is completely sealed off by a metal plate, so the whole fumes thing isn't an issue, and I'm planning on making a little wall for the surge tank gear to be behind so it's out of sight (As in I don't want a surge tank in the boot purely so I can show people that my car is a fireball, I just don't like getting petrol in my eyes from being underneath my car all the time).

Aside from all the usual things to get more power, cam grinds, extractors, exhaust size etc. you could put the block from a 7AFE on it. That makes it 1.8 liter and should give it quite a bit more poke. 7AFE's are quite cheap too so shouldn't be hard to find.

You could put it in your car but not as a straight swap, as in there'd be lots of other things to do as well. Simplest thing to put in is a 4AGE 20 valve if you want a bit more power. Presumably as you want to put his old engine in it means you're on a tight budget, in which case the best thing to do would be to simply add boost to the engine you already have once you do EFI.

What did you wire those lights up to? A seperate switch or just connected to the park light?

How'd that happen?

I wouldn't say it's ripping your 4k out for nothing. If you actually have every other component set up to do a CA18 conversion and the only thing you have left to do is a few mounts, then you're laughing.

You can't tell me that those retro gauges in the dash cluster don't make you weak at the knees. Has some gorgeous aspects to it.