TheNOBBLER

This project just got a whole lot further along today... Cheaply too :) Gotta keep you all guessing! Will post pics when I can. JP

Pisser! Drift pic of the day :)

Hi, Is the current owner keeping the trans as well as the engine? Or just the engine? Auto or manual? As it's currently running a Holden 6 you could just bolt another one back in, I usedto run hot na and turboed Holden six's, cheap and easy to build with very little to go wrong, would have one over an m series Toyota 6 anyday :wink: Or a Holden v8 will bolt straight in in place of the 6 provided it clears everything, as with the Holden 6 these were a very common swap to crowns, a friend of mine has a 55 ute with a 253 in it. These are also cheap, make enough grunt for a crown and there is plenty of aftermarket support for them, and they love turbos. That said, if your keen on spending cash and can fab up mounts etc a 1 or 2jz six would be great, as would a 1uz v8. Cheers, jarrad.

Well, it's about time another run actually happened! Throw up some ideas and we will go from there. JP

JP? hopefully not me! Cars coming along great Cameron , sounds like the new engine will be great! Will be keeping an eye on this thread. JP

Engine and box are out! And I may be gettng another set of wheels... Maybe... Can't wait! JP

Hi there, Ok, I can see why you want disks on the rear but you will most likely end up causing yourself far more trouble than it's worth. Without doing a complete brake upgrade you will end up overbraking the rear, you may be able to sort out the brake bias to get acceptable results after a while. Also, you most likely won't get a rear disk setup that will fit over stock 12" wheels. Not to mention the fact you will need to upgrade your master cylinder etc. If you were going to upgrade the lot you could just shorten an r31 skyline diff to suit and you then have an unbreakable disk rear with later rolla stud pattern. This would go well with a big front disk setup... But as you want to keep it standard drums on the rear would still be your best bet. If you have new linings and have had the drums machined/replaced along with new wheel cylinders you will have very few brake issues. You will however have to spend 15 or so minutes every 6 months adjusting the drums but that will be about it. They work very well on such a light car, I am planning on keeping my 11's drums on the rear and I will be doing track work! Go with drums, keep them adjusted and you won't have any other issues provided it's all decent in the first place. I know, I'm still running good, unboosted, recoed drums all round on my val wagon... It pulls up great and is twice the wieght! JP

Sounds like Pauls pano to me. Very neat I must say!

You did win the guzler award on the GOR! mind you, I was pretty bloody close behind! Will have to catch up once the engines done, it will make the car all over again! Jarrad

I am very sorry for your loss, many thoughts to his family and friends. Jarrad

Coming along chief, once it looks like a car again you will be suprised how motivated you will become! JP

Matt, you should have a 3.89 or 3.7 ratio diff already being an R31. We bought a manual R31 diff for my mates chev and one for my wagon, both 28 spline being skyline not pintara riffs and both 3.89 ratio, there not the same as rb powered commodores with there 3.45 ratio. Works looking great mate, you won't kill anything now! Jarrad

No bad words needed about the BRD! Except it sounds like a GZE but goes like a ... Well, stocker... ;) I'm actually sitting in the 10deg temp watching the v8's wishing I was back up north in the heat watching it for real! As for updates, I haven't had time to get into it but the engine and box (4k 4sp) that are in it are almost out, will finish that tomorrow then I will start cleaning up the engine bay for paint before the 5k and 5 speed with the dellortos goes in. Looking forward to that day! The only change to my plans so far has been the colour, I was going factory white but I have decided against it. I'm going bright orange now :dance: I have wanted another orange car for ages so nows my chance. Will be Hemi orange/Mandarin red. Pretty much the same colour. Is a real rich but bright orange. Can't wait! Going yo do the engine bay and all door jams and dash etc myself and my mate and I will prep the rest of the car and he will spray the rest. Will still be running a black bonnet, will also run gavclassic style side stripes in black and I will do the interior in black with some orange highlights. Will keep the pics coming as I have them :dance: Jarrad

can go on either. The glue ( contact adhesive) actually sticksto bare metal better butyou can put it on primer or etch primer as well. Shouldn't be a problem either way. Even bare steel is weatherproofed when vinyl'd. All depends on your trimmer. Still, painting would be better all round. A one off vinyl roof won't be cheap either, you'd be hard pressed to find anyone with a pattern for a rolla! That means more time and money. JP

From a trimmers point of view I say paint it, to do a decent vinyl roof you need it straight anyway, lumps and bumps still show. The vinyl goes straight onto prepped steelwork rather than having a foam backing to cover shit up. By the time you get it straight enough for vinyl you may as well paint it, will look heaps better! Especially with the colours you've chosen. JP

Pretty sure big Ted's running one as well... Another twin carb fed 7k monster :lol: but I'm not 100% looking great too Matt, should make it nicer to drive not having to worry about when you need to get the shovel and brush out :( JP

Very tidy early girl there, I like the front end treatment! What are the details on the car, driveline, wheels etc. JP

Hmmm... I like dirty... :)

If it's a 20-25 that is... If your running around in a ke1x then you can't use the axle trick in the rear. The front is the same though. It's a very simple job on a 20-25, would set you up for later wheel changes and really, won't be all that different in price to getting everything redrilled etc. I'm not sure about SA but re drilling to suit a different pattern is illegal anyway, also, bolt on spacers are illegal here too. SA seem to be a bit more relaxed on somethings, sent your rta equivalent an email to sort it out. JP

Evan, you won't need to prime your lifters as they are solid not hydraulic lifters. That is unless you have changed or have a 5k lifter and cam setup. You will however need to run the moly lube supplied by your cam grinder for your cam (cam lobes only not the bearing journals) or if your reusing your stock cam you can buy some moly lube over the counter (grey not white). Ok, I have always run boring oil for startup and run in. Some people don't like to but I can see why I should waste $50 on good oil only to drop it a day later. Don't use shit oil, just not the best and only mineral. Crow cams recoment a 20min bed in for the cam above 2000rpm but with varying revs throughout this period. Make sure you have others on hand to check for leaks, bad noises etc. Shut it down if needed. I drop the oil after this, let it cool down and re check for leaks etc. After fresh oil of your choice... The good stuff..., filter and the like take her for a spin. Keep it rev happy, don't flog it yet but don't drive it like your grandparents. After a short drive making sure there are no problems along the way then you can get into it. If you've got hills hit them, backing off down a hill will help as much as accelerating up one. I usually go for a drive that lasts as long as I can have it. Over half an hour at least. Don't hit the highway and just cruise along yet, that's no better than putting around. Drop the oil after 1000km, run your oil of choice. Drive it normally but give it a bit here and there. I can't remember if there's anything else to note, my old man and I have done quite a few together and he's done way to many at his former job. All the engines were run in this way without issues, use the info how you will as with everyone elses :) JP

I used to go there a bit, had a good chat with the young guy and turns out he's a mad ford nut. Plus he really like my val wagon... So I used to get cheap parts. Mind you, I still got them cheaper at pick your nose, was a good wrecker. JP

Yep :blinks:

Oh dear... No good!

Its not a wreckers thing... buts I can't vote otherwise! I'm a trimmer and do lots of customs, rods and rats... primer, surface rust and general old faded paint is cool... but only on certain cars. Early rollas it works, ke3x onwards its just not right! JP

Thought I might throw my number up here. 0400843198 if there's people cruising tonight let me know! I'm heading to the footy.. Walking in now. Will be keen afterwards! Otherwise will hopefully see someone at the track tomorrow. Jarrad