Super Jamie

canberra car styling make a front skirt for a ke70 you can also find the ae71 wing at the wreckers sometimes

there were alot of differences between KE2x and TE27 interior-wise, te27 was top of the line. nice leather seats, tacho dash, gauges in the center externally, there is alot of trim that is te27 only. look at pictures of them, but stuff like the grilles, badges, tail lights, indicators, etc te27 had totally different running gear. a different engine crossmember, different struts and dampers, different gearbox, larger diff. they also ran 4x4.5" stud pattern, instead of the older rotary stud pattern like ke20

an 18R is a big heavy motor, i suspect you would have to do alot of suspension development to make the car turn well, if you did this i agree with rob, stick to a T engine

no, ke55 (borg warner) axles do not fit into ke20/30 (jap) diff yes, you can convert to later stud pattern in a ke20, but using ke30 axles and shortening them 5-6mm or so. IF you do this, you will need to use ke30 drums and backing plates on ke20 housing, as the axle flanges are different lengths between ke20 and ke30 you can also use the larger ke55 drums and backing plates, on a ke20 housing, with shortened ke30 axles in it

you are not supposed to run aftermarket wheels WITHOUT spigot rings generally the downward load is supposed to be taken up by the spigot, and transmitted to the wheel bearing, which is designed to hold the load of the car not the wheel studs, which are designed to have lateral force applied to them, to hold the wheels onto the hub, and not an awful lot more

hahaha, my old parts the jig is indeed to put bigger rod bolts in K engine rods, no idea if it's for 3k or 4k. try and see you'd need to choose something f@$king big and strong tho (aftermarket SBC rodbolts for instance), as K engines are already very over-engineered in the rold bolt department the pistons are ACL 040s as far as i know, though i never really thought about it. the sterling comment above seems more likely, with that logo. google for sterling's website and find out. it doesnt really matter, they're just 040 3/4K engine pistons. you might want to check they're within roundness tolerances before you spend any money on them the engine i got them out of had had the bore clearances set WAY too tight and cooked itself, as you can see from the score marks up and down the skirts. i only bought that engine for the head anyway, and had to scrap the block good luck!

you already have the best cam available for 4k/5k, as far as my research shows 474 or 488 valve lift is probably going to require a bit of custom work to stop things breaking, for the amount of money you'd spend, and the slight-if-any improvement, i suggest it very much wouldn't be worth it my advice would be to just stick with what you have

it's not so much in the temperature, but the composition of the oils K motors are a crappy old design, coupled with the fact your engine has possibly not been rebuilt in many years, and have alot of piston blowby, which pollutes the oil i have found friction-modified oils (5W40, 20W50, etc) tend to gather impurities and approach the end of their service life quicker than a straight non-synthetic oil (such as SAE30) i would definitely recommend using the SAE30 in your motor. you could even try the SAE50 they have "for older engines". i don't think you'll have a problem with ambient temperatures, oil runs pretty goddamn hot inside the engine you certainly won't kill it by just testing anyway (i also recommend pennzoil, best oil ever in my opinion)

word is, the harmonics are such that regular runs over 8000rpm will crack the block. balancing will obviously help eliminate this honestly tho, i'd rather an engine with torque and a 7000rpm redline, than nothing down low and something you need to rev the tits off of to make power

one of these will be your car think of the old gear as "alternator and regulator" together, and new new one as just "alternator" (as the bosch actually has an internal regulator). forget all the wiring between the old denso alternator and regulator. just know the loom will be expecting charge along the B wire, and two signal wires, marked in letters on the back of the new alternator locate your charge wire, and run an additional big fat charge wire up to the + terminal of the battery, as the old alternator only had to supply small current (35A) whereas your new alternator is a bit beefier (at 60A). i left the existing charge wire hooked up as well, tho you may be able to disconnect it (looking at these diagrams, it appears it runs to the battery via the starter, so may be best to just leave it hooked up as well) from there, it's just a matter deciphering which wires in the alternator plug are which signal wires, and you're set the haynes manual has a great "wiring map" with the diagram, that not only gives you the big square spaghetti thing like these, but an actual representation of the loom, with every connector as it branches off, and what every terminal in that connector is. i don't have it on me at the moment, but perhaps if someone else does, they could scan/photograph it?

heh, ta. i kinda randomed over here in feb, been working in the city, living in queens park. i'm only here another month or so tho. back to nsw for a couple of weeks, then it looks like i'm moving to brisbane after that oh, and as of this week, there's a ke55 in cannington for like $700, looks like a beater, pm me if you're interested, i could get some phone photos and a phone number if there's one on it

there's a decent unrestored light blue square-headlight ke55 in queens park, i walk past it most days on the way to work i also see an elderly couple getting around in an absolutely overrated grandpa-spec shiny yellow ke30 in cannington, every sunday on the way to church. by the looks of the thing, it hasn't even ticked over six digits on the odometer yet oh, and i saw a yellow ke30 beater around dianella the other day, it was so low it was tucking on factory steelies :monkey: i've seen like, one ke20 over here, and it was a shitbox

lol, agreed! ;)

hey, gavclassic just dropped by, just thought i'd stick up some photos of his rx4 and ke18, i'll let him finish off the rest :y:

could you bolt the apron back on, or hold it up against the car, so we can see how much it's down from stock? never mind carparks, meet a moderate speedhump or driveway and i think you're definitely increasing your chances of bending that thing. i really hope it works out for you, it would be a pain in the ass to have to do it all again, including buying/repairing your cooler oh, and it's a common practice to drill holes in bumpers to allow more airflow through for oilcoolers, fmics, etc. i'm not saying make swiss cheese of the thing, you'd be surprised how effective a half dozen well placed 10mm drillings would be. also illegal, but not as obvious as removing the whole bumper good luck, well done for thinking outside the box, but test your execution of the idea VERY carefully before hitting the open roads

i also want to see twin sticker packs i give this idea my personal 5 jamie stamp of approval :P :y: :) :) :y: by the way, tell your mate his car looks awesome. i absolutely love those 12 slotters :y:

yeah we thought of this too. there is no rwd gearbox which fits, so a custom bellhousing becomes necessary. we thought it too much expense for a cheap 1.3L turbo engine, why not just spend the extra money on a 4ag or sr20

that's a nice collection of cars :P that ta12 looks overrated! tell us more about what's done to it? that's a beautiful little ke20 too, what were the specs and modifications? it looks like it has big snow tires on!

chinese i ching coins have a square hole, rumored to symbolise several different things (china/universe, heaven/earth, etc) but likely originating from the original ancient process of making the coins by rounding down metal blocks on square rods either way, xany gave me one of these a while back, i keep it on my keyring to bring me luck, and it's certainly worked so far :dance: googling around, i came across these amusing instructions to make your own "lucky vulva" coinpurse :harhar:

that mini is insane!!! :harhar:

cue "sabotage" by beastie boys

agreed, i got new ones

yes

what kind of place has the currency "1 urn"? :harhar:

there's a part number, jb something. search for posts by demuire with the word pajero in them, you find the rest of the parts required as well