Taz_Rx

Another 4wd = also Caldina :dance:

Small update: Sort of forgot about an ebay auction that was ending over the weekend. Got to work today and found that apparently I won an S15 ballbearing T28!!! :y: So, depending on weather I go Mako fishing this W/E (as its Aus last weekend of it being legal) I might try and get the mazdas stereo install finished so that can come out of the shed (and stay tuned for a new projects thread for that). "Tar" can then go into the shed for a much needed turbo and gasket change, as well as having the gilmer drive re-fitted (with the stainless sleeve) which I haven't got around to doing yet. I'll also finally connect my oil cooler which I was going to do over the easter break last year! :y: Then its off to tarmak to crack a 13!!! :dance:

I emailed them last week after replying in this thread Tor.....

...... that aren't ceramic! :dance:

The SC14 is a bigger charger (2000cc 1G) and is ultimately going to make more power as it can flow more volume..... Not to say that the SC12 won't do the job. After all the SC12 comes from a 1600cc (4a) so I don't think it will struggle to feed a 1500cc 5K. Really depends on how much boost you want to run too. Never really had much to do with Eatons. Question for you Philbey if you know - Do they also have teflon coated rotor that can chip and flake at high boost like an SC?

Eww, did'n't even notice that felix. Its a wonder it even runs well considering the spark probably jumps across to the cup. :wink:

You just reminded me that those Spool 5k rods should be about now Tor, might have to go ask the club-K guys who knew about them if they are yet. :wink:

Are you sure it was smoke or was it steam? If the engine has sat for a while and not run then it could well just be some moisture that has built up in the motor over time. Then when you first started it, this moisture was being burn/eveaporated off. Run it a few more times and see if the smokie stops. If it doesn't then its just blow-by as mentioned before. :wink:

You'd really want to know which car it comes from so you have some specs like CFM at certain RPM's to do some calculations from there. :wink:

Yeah that'll work. If I were you and had the cash I'd buy the Fireball and elec dizzy too. They can both be fitted before the charger too.

It doesn't HAVE to be an SC14....... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Supercharger...=item45f05e5a35

A complete motor would be good yes, but...... (going against the grain here) thinking further down the track you might want to build a lower comp motor. If this is the case the easiest way is to fit a 3k or 4k head on the 5k bottom end. For this reason, buying a 5k bottem end ONLY wouldn't be such a bad idea ) provided it still has all the pistons etc in it. You can then collect over time the head (maybe a ported one) and the appropiate push-rods and lifters depending on if you want to go solid or keep it hydro. The first thing I would probably do is get some extractors on the motor (assuming that you don't have any already) as this won't change when the charger is fitted and running. Then some other parts to look out for are: K series air con bracket - this is the easiest way to mount the charger. Apropiate sized and type (ie v-beld or ribbed) pullies for your desired boost SU carby - These are the easiest way to setup a K changer system in "draw-through" configuration. Decent electic fuel pump.

Should be able to find a bit of info if you search on ausrotary. Yes they are good, but yes they are also expensive - Mainly because theu use new or professionally reconditioned parts.

:wink: he just got me on a good day when I was bored at work.

Thats 2.25L PER PERSON Jip!!! :yes: Befriend a fellow travellers who's getting off at the same stops as you (preferably female and a non-drinker) and pretend she's you're missus when you dissembark...... and you then just double your allowance to 4.5L!!! :wink: One of my mates had to do this when coming back from the states once. He had been to the Beam factory in Kentucky and bought one of those 4.5l bottles that comes with its own cradle to pour it. On returning to Aus he had to pretent that another woman attending the conference he was at was his girl friend so he could get it in without having to pay uber tax. :hmm:

I'm guessing you didn't exactly hit a possum Casey!? :P

You're modifying your tank somehow at the moment aren't you mate? How many line to you have coming out of the tank? Should be no issue with removing the line all together and blocking the tank end, or just block it off in the engine bay. Depends how neat you want things I suppose. ...oh and yeah it would be from the charcoal canister. :P

:P :y: :y:

I'm actually waiting to get my mazda locks back from re-coding. I'm getting the whole lot done - Ignition barrel, 2 doors and boot and was quoted between $150-$200 with me doing the removal and re-fit. $300 if they had to do it. I'll let you know how much it was when I pick them up which hopefully might be this arvo.

Personally I would not waste my time with 4ke gear, this is why I have a 7ke injection system on my car. The 4ke stuff is somewhat rare, so this makes it a little more expensive with most kits fetching around $500!!. On the other hand, its not that hard to find a wrecked KR42R townace in a commercial wreckers to aquire a 7ke setup for half the price of 4ke gear. Myself and Madrolla68 both paid $250 for our 7ke setups. The main reason why I think 4ke gear isn't great is the throttle body, its about the size of a 50c piece! Compare that to the one in a 7ke with is about 2 inches in diametre (the OD of the throttle body inlet is 2.25" so the butterfly would be about 2"). The injectors in 4ke gear are also tiny at 145cc, so they can only support 116 (flywheel) HP. 7ke's have 190cc injectors so they can support a touch over 150HP. If you wanted to go forced induction with either setup you would want to upgrade the injectors. I'm currently running 315cc 7MGE injectors which gives me a power potential of 250HP. Most of the 4AGE injectors would make a nice upgrade for a NA engine. The quad throttle body injection systems you have linked to are good, but are really in the upper end of the market price wise at over twice the price of a 4ke setup. And unlike the 4ke and 7ke gear you really don't have the option of runnning a stock ECU (not that I'd run a 4ke or 7ke ECU anyway), but you can have something like a microtech digi for under $200 these days. Oh and most of those quads use a weber side draft mounting flange so finding a manifold to use them on your K isn't hard at all. Another thing to bare in mind when considering fuel injection is the ignition side of things, as they do tie in together. Without going into too much detail you have 3x main ignition setups to choose from: 1, Coil negative trigger - This only required a fuel only ECU, but on the other side of the coin you don't have the option of ECU controlled ignition. You can also retain you points dizzy in the setup. 2, Single pulse triggering - This requires a electronic dizzy as a trigger, and you still need to use the dizzy and rotor button for spark distrobution. You can control your ignition curve from the ECU however. This setup does NOT support multi point ignition - ie 4x coil packs/waste spark. 3, Dual pulse triggering - This is the best option,..... but also obviously the most expensive. You need to basically turn your stock dizzy into a crank angle sensor (CAS) by using parts from a later model car, or adapt a crank trigger wheel onto the motor. This setup allows you to run multi point or waste spark ignition.

They also modify some RX gearboxes for racing with a similar setup to these. Only difference with the mazda ones is reverse stays where it is, the 1st goes to the 5th position and every other gear is back one spot from its usual position. The reason they do this is because you very rarely need to go back to 1st once you're off the line, then one of the most common gear changes (being 2nd to 3rd) is a straight up and down movement. Have a look at this video of a Targa RX3 with ne of these gearboxes...... Apart from getting off the line he only goes back to 1st twice for a couple of very tight hair pins...... but how many 2nd-3rd changes does he make!? :y: .....oh and that video also has a funny challenge - Beat the celica for free beer!! :P

Do you really think its a good idea to post up pics of you drifting on what is clearly a public street!? :P

answers can be found here :P

a, Why not just replace the lot!? You need to remove the axle to get the centre out, then its just a matter of removing the pinion to change that bearing too. b, yes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvFeV26ax6c...feature=related Not youtube but still bloody cool...... http://www.thatvideosite.com/video/truck_drifting