Taz_Rx

If the local coucil won't let you build up....... just build down! http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthr...4&showall=1

Just happened to find these pics on Club-K. Guyt there has a projects thread going but you need to be a platinum member to see it. This is an a KP60 BTW not a rolla but engine bay dementions would be about the same.

Updates? :) ....or are you gunna keep it under your hat for a while?

Different engine, but similar turbo and same issue...... Already had a T25/T28 split dump pipe but due to final turbo position it couldn't be used as it was. Pipes were cut off the flange and re-positioned with some angled stainless.

haha your brother owes you a car doesn't he!? :)

Oh oh oh vids from powercruise???????? Edit: Found one... ....want more!!! :)

Search for a projects thread by username NickZ. He build a "rolladore" a couple of years ago.

Nah thats exactly what it is - an inpspection window. K-T bells have them too. :) When I saw that top pic in your projects thread I though it might also be a K-T, but now seeing it from behind its clear its not.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Corolla-Radi...=item19b5b35a9a :)

That may have been the case with a big turbo but a supercharger should be able to make ample boost while in neutral. Does the guage come up to 0 when you give it a rev? Edit: Just for Evan...... :)

Just tube it adequately so you don't need to use the choke! I doubt you'd be able to adapt the asian one to fit a weber, but you can always prove me wrong!

Commonly referred to as the "D-dish" pistons because of the shape of the dish. You can also get "o-dish" ones which have a lot smaller capacity and hence will up the compression a bit. Nothing wrong with the stock D-dishes...... they're good for boost!!! :)

These are the ones mentioned above.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SCREW-EXTRACTOR-SET...=item45f0877fa1 However nearly ever time I've used one of those reverse thread ones I've also snapped that off in the bolt too. There is another type (which I can't find on ebay) which are just a tapered square shape. You drill a hole, tap the extractor in with a hammer then remove. I've always had a lot more success with these. As for splitting the shifter, there's not really an easy way. Last time I had to do it I just clamped the lower (thin) part in a bench vise and the used a set of multigrips on the thick part and swung on it until the rubber inner broke. Replace the bushes and then just use some siccaflex to glue it back together.

Because the manifold has got hot then cold so many times all of the bolts a brittle and always snap. When building my turbo setup using a KE70 manifold I bought two KE70 mani's and snapped bolt in both of them which couldn't be removed. Went to another wrecking yard and told them I wanted the ex mani only and the issues with snapping bolts. Took the guy nearly an hour with an oxy torch to get them all out in one piece and charged me heaps. I then ran a blind tap through the holes and got myself some high tensile bolts. I would recommend you do the same thing if you want to keep the stock mani, otherwise just bight the bullet now and get some extractors - Then you'll never have a hot box gasket issue ever again! :)

That site look European. You should be able to get them through a local dealer and save yourself a massive freight cost. :)

:D They've also done a few other Group B resto's like a Quatro and an S4 Delta, as well as a few other intergrale's. Have a look through their website as there's something like 270 odd pics of the Celica.

Its deffinately a TA22 T50. I'm more so intersted in the bellhousing! :) I think with your KE3X being an auto the shifter will actually come through in a KE70 position, hence the top (dirty) T50 will better suit this. Saying that though the you'll need to mod the tailshaft for that one, where if you used the TA22 T50 then the stock tailshaft will go straight up its arse. Half a dozen of 1, 6 of the other!

Yeah but TDC on the timing pully can also be on the compression stroke. Pull the tappet cover off, or even just the oil cap so you can see the valve rocker for the number one inlet valve. Turn the motor over with a spanner on the crank. You want to see the inlet valve open, then close, and then shortly after the TDC timing mark will line up. This is your proper TDC, not 180* out.

Top or bottom one? Can you take a pic of both of then sitting next to each other from the front? So we can see the bellhousing flange?

Sure the dizzy isn't in 180 degrees out? Moving this to the tech area as well BTW

How much must merc be loving having schuey in their camp now!! Car looks cool too. Almost a modern remake of the orginal SL

All port sizes are the same. You can get dish piston and flat top piston 5k's. The flat top ones don't have lugs under 1&4.

You've got 3 options: 1, Cut the trans tunnel...... don't blame you for not wanting to do this 2, Swap the whole gearbox for a KE70 K50 3, Swap only the rear extension housing with somebody who has the KE70 K50 and wants to put it in a KE3X-5X. If you do this, just make sure you swap shifter too as they're not interchangable between the 2 versions. :)

:cool: ........ http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_tr...-All-Categories That was hard wasn't it!? Like Evan said your not going to get any performance out of it. It will only be 'wank factor' sitting on your trans tunnel. Get yourself a K50. :)

S4 for me any day of the week! :) What the hell was the M1 doing there :cool: ..... making a 3 point turn on the hairpin!?