Taz_Rx

haha the good old busted TA22 T50 shifter lockout! :) The shifter actually lifts up to clear the gate for reverse. Every TA22 T50 I've seen though has been forced into reverse (without being lifted) and has hence bent or broken the gate. That was probably the main culpret for your shifting issues. :blush:

If you REALLY want recaros then maybe have a look around for some second hand ones that were factory fitment in other vehicles like Evo's and some Hondas like Integra Type R's. Examples: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/mitsubishi-evo-7-se...=item230541edc8 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JDM-INTEGRA-TYPE-R-...=item35a6ea4e72

Welcome to rollaclub mate. We sometimes have cruises on around Launy if you want to come for a drive with some other rollas one day. :) If you want a bit more poke out of her then I would suggest keeping your eye out for a 4k and manual gearbox. 4k's can be had for as little as $50 for a good one. For a bit more power again you can also get a 5k but you're normally looking at around $300 for one. Either are very easy swap overs from your 3k and can easily be done in half a day.

I had a pretty sedate carby 4k turbo setup. Made 70rwkw on 8psi. Now have a 5kte setup making 100rwkw on 10psi. Hopefully be running 20psi in the next few weeks and pushing out nearly 150rwkw. If you fitted a 100kw (flywheel) 4age you can expect arpound 60-70kw at the wheels.

Have a look at the ebay link I posted. That lists all of the vehicles that housing will fit so it also tells you what cars to look out for at the wreckers. :)

I've done it before too. :blush: Every time the rod lit up you'd start an oil fire inside the diff housing!! :) Wouldn't reccomend doing it though. That diff lasted about 8-9 months before it desintergrated both of the smaller sun gears.

Get yourself an engine crane (can hire them from plant hire places) and a sump gasket. Invite a mate around and get yourself a carton of brews. 3-4 hours work and you're done. :)

Bored...... thought I'd see what the tube has to say....... Yet this nob jockey thinks it does work....... and he's an automotive teacher!! |blink| ..... Now for an independat test.... :hmm: I wonder if it would have made any difference if he had if driven further than what seems to be like 2 miles!!!? Listen to the "Automotive experts".... Or the AAA

Please familiarise yourself with the search function in the top right corner. This question (brake upgrades) get asks all the time, hence you can find the answers you want in an older thread.

I think the main thing would be just using a non-sealed beam headlight, and then you can just put what ever globe you want in it. Considering that the face-lift square headlight KE55's didn't have sealed beams, I doubt a k'sev would. Just check if you can remove the globe from the housing (rather than it all being 1x sealed unit) and you should be right to go. As for aftermarket housing, you could get something like this to mount them in.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/7-Clear-Head-Lights...=item35a62ccafe

Smart arse! ;) Yeah but they don't have an exhaust manifold running underneath them so you can sit them down in the engine bay a bit lower.

Good luck finding a workshop who will do it all then if the car has number plates and a rego sticker on it. Its like asking a shop owner to sell you 10 year old a pack of ciggies. ;)

Nope intake has the heat sink ribs under it. There's only a hole in the ex mani.

Those 'Anerps' (Sp?) elecrontic rust preventing things do actually work. They're sort of like an electronic sacrificial anode. The thing abaout them though that a lot of people don't realise is they only work well if all of the panels are painted on both sides.

Pretty simple. KE35's were made in the mid '70 at the same times as KE30's. Then KE55's and KE55 hardtops were made at the same time in the late '70 and very earlier '80's.

Did it get a bit hot at powercruise? Not supprised if so, was a pretty hot weekend. ;)

The stock fuel pressure.... hence why other are telling you to go back to just using the stock FPR.

You want Girlocks don't you Jono? Make sure its a later model '55 as the earlier '55's had Sumitomos like KE30's ;)

Assumption is the mother of all f@$k-ups mate. My original 4ktc setup cost me around $400. And that would of still beaten 4AGE's. ;)

Considering KE3X/5X and Ke70 K50 shifters are vastly different I suggest you double checking that before spending the $250 on one of those TRD shift kits. IIRC the T50 ones are ONLY usable in the KE70 K50's.

Tech mod in training!! :D ;)

Remove the centre yourself and take it to a welding/fabrication/mechanics shop. And tell them its for 'Track use only' ....which I hope it is anyway. Alternatively get another centre and get that welded and swap them over. That way you can easily swap back to the open centre when you get defected.

Have they listed the diametres of each?

Agreed. ;)

Your logged into the forum part, not the FAQ part. Go and quickly register on the FAQ part and then you can. :jamie: