Taz_Rx

Permaseal EM30. :) As for #3, you should eb able to use a 14mm socket on a 20-25cm long extension bar and get them through the manifolds spinning the ratchet next to the strut tower.

Yes mate AE86 shocks fit. If you're lowering the car then just have a look around for options of short stroke shorts for 86's. Sierra's, commodores etc.

Doubt it, all 12a have the mounts off the front timing cover. Mazda didn't use side mounts for rotaries until the S4/5 13bt's.

If you had of used the search function you would have found that it has been done a few time, with pics, and a list of what was needed to be done. :hmm:

Build an industrial style alloy dash or get it covered in leather or vynil. Both would probably be more expensive than the ones available in the sale section though.

Only difference between a 12a and 13b is the 13b is around 15-20mm longer, both are the same size height and width wise. Both are still small engines in the sceme of things so there's no issues with making one fit. If I were you I'd be chasing up some info from your local RTA in terms of ligalities and them base my decision on that. Gearbox - You've got a couple main choices. S1-3 RX7 (or even old rx4 4 speeds) 5 speeds which can be had for $100-$300. They'll hand an NA motor (13b or 12a) but won't like a turbo motor much. Or a S4-8 RX7 5 speed "Turbo box", which will obviously handle a turbo'd motor but you'd be looking at anything from $300-$1000 depending on condition and where you got it from. Diff - Just have a search around here for other threads on diff conversion. A stock KE70 diff wouldn't last too long even with a NA 12a, but ofcourse it depends on how you drive it. Tailshafts are easy. Now, please familiarise yourself with the search function FAQ tabs up the top. We already have heaps of info here you just need to spend a little bit of time finding it yourself. :) Cheers, Si. :fuzz: I must be in a good mood today! :y:

Nothing a handful of chops won't fix Cam! :)

Yeah must seems like a little bit of a slouch compared to the commodore..... mind you it probably also seems like a go-kart compared to it to!?

This thread has run its course. :fuzz: Another quality thread by TWF#14. :y: :)

Fair enough. Just sold some parts to a speedway kid and his dad last night. Told him how I thought you junior speedway guys were getting a bit serious for a class thats supposed to be a cheap to run, fun and "tech my kid to drive" type thing, don't think he appreciated it too much! :fuzz: Speaking of the nationals in Tas, I heard you guys were told to bring a spare set of struts with you as 'Fitted struts will be confiscated on arrival to check for illegal modifications, so you must bring a spare set'. Any truth to this? Might be work you trying some KYB Excel G shocks. They're non adjustable nitrogen filled shock which aren't too bad and you can get off the shelf 30/55 ones. :)

Much better.... you know what I'm on about. :) Painting a car is a pretty labour intensive process and would be the majority of a what you've been quoted. If you can do the majority of the prep work on the car yourself - EG dry rubbing back, priming, and wet rubbing then you can reduce the bill from the panel shop. Then they only need to charge you for the paint and the labour to actually spray it. and FYI - You'll normally find that a $4k paint job is a hell of a lot better than a $2k job.... the old saying "You get what you pay for" deffinately rings true! Also, were both quotes for 2-pac, or was the $4k for 2-pac and the $2k for acrylic?

Going down to Hobart on the weekend to watch the twenty20, so might have to pop round some time during the week next week. You normally work arvos don't you? I can always pop out from work and can round during the day?

Thought I might cut and paste some info and pics from "Kay-pee's" project thread on club-K given the interest in this lately.... 1998 CBR900RR carbs. Specs: 4k .5mm oversize ported, skimmed head, triple angled valves hand polished and balanced crank TRD bearings big end all new seals 2.4kg billet flywheel, TRD clutch KENT 285deg race cam, TRD valve springs and adjustable pulley TRD 4 branch exhaust manifold 2" system, janspeed rear box twin 40 inlet, custom S/S adapters, KEIHIN bike carbs, fireblade fuel pump and lines. EARLS oil cooler setup MSD blaster ingnition TRD leads 5 speed box 3.9 TRD 2 way diff body: full bare shell respray ferrari dark silver TRD N1 arches TRD N2 rear spoile raybrig headlights full safety devices cage suspension: rear koni shocks TRD springs front trd shocks eibach coilovers TRD pads T3 top mounts TRD starlet cup drivers bucket seat BRIDE passenger bucket SABELT harnesses Keys' racing steering wheel TRD tachometer oil pressure/water temp/oil temp guages TRD gear knob fully seam welded shell

My gearing is a bit out of whack, as far as I can work out the T50 has a speedo drive for a 4.1:1 or 4.4:1 and I have a 3.9:1 diff. Had it to 160kmh on the clock. Checked my speed against another car and there 100kmh read as about 83kmh on mine, so yeah done about 200kmh. Also asked another member here I raced against once "what speed were you doing"? his reply - "I don't know either, my speedo needle dissapeared behind the digital dash at 180kmh"! Click "Tar" specs, list is too long. :)

Small update: Recieved above mentioned ebay turbo last week...... however it has WAY too much play in the shaft! I contacted the seller and told him I want a refund as its not in "Perfect working order" as he put in his add. He's agreed to refund my money so I'll be sending it back tomorrow. So now back to square one on the search for another turbo! :fuzz: ...and speaking of stuff arriving, have you got that big package here yet Ben? I want to come round and have a look at it all. :)

Yes the rear AW11 MR2 shocks fit and you can still get Konis etc for these. HOWEVER the strut tube (and stroke of the shock) is around 80-100mm shorter. You can retify this by packing out the bottom of the strut tube - if your car is at stock height, or use some washer to pack it out at the top if its lower to keep the spring captive. Does it have to be OEM corolla, or can you get away with OEM toyota!? Cause if you have to stay with a stock corolla strut then your options are pretty limited.... hence why most modified KE street cars no longer have the stock struts in them.

KE35 door will most deffinately NOT fit. KE35's are pillarless and have no top frames, they also curve up at the backs from memory. KE38 4 door wagon doors won't fit either, they the same as a KE30/55 sedan. KE36 PANO doors may fit, but I can't confirm this sorry. Maybe find someone who has a pano in the projects section and get them to run a tape measure up the side of their car.

If you only want 6" wide rims then something around +10 - 0 would be ok. FYI - Old school mazdas (RX's etc) have the same stud pattern and offset as ke20's, so have a look on ausrotary.com for some wheels. You'll find a lot more there than you will here. :)

Yeah thats a dig at Hilux drivers Jip. One of my mates had a "Toyota recovery vehicle" sticker on the back of his GQ. Lucky he actually took it off as he had to get a toe home from a Hilux a week later!! :)

If you just bought the car them maybe a full service an tune would be a good idea. If you're not too sure what you're doing then buy a carton and invite a mechanically minded friend around for an afternoon. ... or worse case scenario you might need to take it to a mechanic.

Yes it will bolt on very easily with an adapter plate...... but like you said its designed for a much larger engine. Trying to find something off a motor of much the same size would be a better start. :)

Um, just maybe because of what they would do to your compression ratio! :)

Just ignore evan, most of us do!! :)

And people here think that RA28GT finds mintas..... well he does, just not as overrated as everything you come up with Gav! :)

:) Looks tops as always Mark. BTW, can I borrow your crank pulley puller soon?