Taz_Rx

Pretty sure Curly has a time slip for that pass. I also remember reading he was on the limiter crossing the line, so that may explain why the trap speed isn't as high as it maybe should be for that ET. I frankly don't care weather the track timing are done with a stop watch or hour glass!! :yes: I took the placing off the track times, so this more of a reference of how your car compares to others. If we had a lot more times for certain tracks then I would then think about adding some placing back on it. Your time has now been added. :hmm:

Apparently FC and the sumitomo Skyline calipers are basically the same thing with different manifacturer branding on them. So they're pretty well equivalent. If you're thinking GTR brembos then maybe have a look on trademe at some Evo brembos. They go soooo much cheaper there (because they have so many inports) than what they would on say ebay..... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-274079098.htm Even with the high cost that postage you would incur surely you'd still be in front over buying some locally.

Price wise maybe..... my manifold was over $700!! :blinks: Saying that though it far and away so much better than a J pipe. Also (second time I've told somebody this in the last week), if I were to build another J-pipe setup I would seriously consider actually getting it professionally (cause of cast steel) welded to the KE70 manifold. The gaskets always burn out far to quick and the bolts rattle then selves loose. I used some cone-locker nuts once but they just destroyed the thread on the studs when you still had to change a gasket. In terms of installation and removal, it was always much easier to take the manifolds and j-pipe out together so this wouldn't be an issue. Another benefit of doing this is you can actually significantly increase flow though the flange area of the KE70 mani. The gasket ID is like 1 inch even though the "collector" is around 1.5-2". My last j-pipe was like 1.75", so you end up with 2">1">1.75". Removing the gasket altogether and opening the flange ID up to the diametre of the j-pipe would make a huge difference in flow and response.

Nice work mate. What sort of BIG brakes you looking at? S4/5 4 pots or even bigger? Oh and it sort of looks like a matt black pressure pack exploded in your engine bay!! :blinks:

Pretty sure TE's had 3tc's. Have a hunt for an engine number on the block and that will tell you for sure. :blinks:

Didn't shatter as well as a PS3 sixaxis. One of my mates got a little frustrated with GTA4 hehe

Added. Got a trap speed and 60' time original?

Cable ties work well on a 3k dizzy, you just put them in the slots where those pins come through in the pics above. I wouldn't use them again in a 4k or elec dizzy though, that's what cause my last blown headgasket. :blinks: Are you making one of those washers for the dizzy I sold you Jono? Not a bad idea but I wouldn't worry too much about it, that dizzy was locked up nice and tight. :lolcry:

How do you get an engine 360* out Evan!? :blinks: I suppose you're 5'12" tall too!? :lolcry:

Can you change the ratio of the linkages so you can get full throttle with the same amount of cable travel? It might have a disc on it somewhere with several holes around the outside edge to do this.

I did a cam change on a 4k in a few hours couple of years back. I actually used a snapped bolt remover to get them out! It was one of the tapered square ones which was pretty big..... obviously. Just dropped down the lift hole and let it sit in the top of the lifter, gave it one gentle tap with a hammer to get it to bight and then lifted them both out. There was 1 or 2 that were a little bit of fun due to the casting inside the head but after you held your tongue the right way and gave them a wiggle they all came out. :blinks:

Big cams and superchargers don't work all that well together, you're actually better off with a stock or mild cam. Because the boost response of the charger is pretty instantanious you might find yourself on full boost suffering from "cam lag" giving you a general slocky bottom end. Then by the time the cam its in its power range then the charge will be starting to run out of chuff. Basically you need to have both your charger and cam working in much the same RPM range. If you want a 'top end' performing engine then maybe you should look at a turbo conversion instead of the charger. As for changing the cam, tracking down a gregory's manual might not be a bad idea. That will talk you through it all step by step. You don't actually need to remove the head to get the lifters out, but if you're doing other head work etc this won't be a problem. As Philbey mentioned the lifters will have to be re-faced for the new cam. You'll also need to get yourself a new timing chian as well as a timing cover gasket kit..... or at least a new front main seal. Might also want to get another chain tensioner if the current one is pretty worn. Oh and if you have a single chain then do yourself a favour and get yourself a double kit.

Just take it to a cam grinder and say "Grind me another one of these please". Can get put a dial on it and read the specs, then duplicate it. Might just cost a little more than buying one of thier off-the-shelf grinds.

There you go, replies from both in one day!! :lolcry:

Dare say you'll need to atleast lips the guards for 0 offset 8"s.

What offset are the wheels?

They're interference free...... with stock cam lift. :blinks: Sorry to tell you but I think you'll be binning that cam. There's to much force going through that end that even if you could get it welded up then it would most likely just break again.

I do actually. Ben gave me the one off his "ditched pano" before it got crushed. Does/did he want to look at it for a trailer too? Maybe we can just pitch in a make it a "Rollaclub community trailer"!! haha mind you he's scared of spiders.... so I don't know how he'd go with a big arse tiger snake!! :hmm:

whats the '36 pano like condition wise? I'd love to make one of those trailers Leigh spotted at Falls!! :hmm:

Think he may have meant me. :hmm: "Ned's helmet" as it was effectionally known was just a bit of an easy way out in my setup. It wasn't 100% neccessary but was just the easiest way at the time. Other things then got updraged around it but "Ned's helmet" stayed. It did probably cost a little bit of top end as the air flow would have swirled through it. As sleepy said it you can seall it all up well then that will do. Also keep in mind that you can upgrade the needle and seat to a bigger Falcon weber one, they're interchangable. Oh and speaking of N&S's yours should hold 12'ish PSI before its busted open at idle. What are you going to do about an exhaust manifold?

Pretty sure the accerator pump nozzle just pushes in on an o-ring, well thats how webers are anyway. Give it little wobble, if it moves around a little then it'll be an o-ring. :hmm: Can't help much with the other Q's,..... wouldn't waste my time with a stock carb!! :y: ..... I realise you HAVE to.

Yes mate, they're all interchangable. Only 4kj's and 5kj's came with the reduction starter stock, but you can still buy these from Ashdown Ingrams for around $200-250 depending on what sort of discount they can do you. As for the auto starters, I used a ke30 auto starter in one of my cars once. The solenoid sat on a different angle closer to the motor but its still fitted fine. All K motors have the same outer diametre flywheel or flexplate.

Firstly, yes VL's had a low pressure in-tank lift pump. You should be fine to use this however a reg would be a great idea. :hmm: As Ryan asid, don't go for a PROCOMP, they're just a Holley knock-off so either get a quality Holley reg (for much the same $) or I'm also somewhat fond of these ones..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SPECO-ADJUSTABLE-TU...=item5886037434 The number that you point the arrow at is the pressure in PSI. You need a RR reg as said in PM, not the same as greenmac needs. Yes that pump will do the job for a carby engine. Pretty much any low pressure pump will do.

When its on boost the float bowl will be getting drained.....quickly. So this higher pressure will just make sure its kept topped up with fuel. :hmm:

Buy it! :hmm: ...you could probably get $200 for those wheels alone.