Taz_Rx

Think you should be able to use a cast iron 3tgte turbo maifold on the 3t. Know you can on a 2t anyway!

Nah man. Carbys only need a low pressure pump and reg. There's no reason why you would need a RR EFI pump for a carby fed motor...... unless it was turbo'd, but then you would use the correct carby RR malpassi. To check you cam timing remove the #1 plug so you can sit a long screw driver or something on the top of the piston so you can feel its position. Then with the "engine hat" off watch the rockers for #1 while you turn the motor back and forward and try and see if the cam timings a bit off. ;)

Yeah I saw you do a couple of passes mid arvo'ish you were only doing low 15's then though from memory. Had to have a giggle when I mate told me you had some giggly gas up her. What time did racing end up finishing Saturday night. One of my mates left after round 3 of the bikes at 11pm, said they wouldn't have finished until 1am'ish!!

You can adapt pretty much any seat to the stock rails. So, put your carpet in now and cut some holes for the stock mounts, and then your new seats will still use the same mounts/holes. ;)

What's your patience like working on cars? Do you get frustrated easy? ....cause its a very fiddly job to re-build a gearbox, I don't plan on doing it again any time soon. One little slip and a clip come loose and shit goes flying around the shed. ;) Give it a go if you think you've got the patience though.

You used to be able to get them from Meridian Motor Sport in Melbourne but apparently they aren't making them anymore. There was a thread about a month ago in the wanted section calling for flares. I directed the OP to MMS. Another member then stated that they no longer make them and he knew as he actually worked for MMS. He did however say that he could make some himself to sell. Anyway - point of the story is have a hunt in the wanted section for a thread about flares (you'll have to back a few pages), then you'll know who it was as I can't remember. ;)

Are you serious! :jamie: You want to know the PCD for a KE55....... ......how about you familiarise yourself with the search function. PLEASE!

Try holding the top spring hanger with some vice grips first, its worked before for me with mazda struts. Doesn't damage the shock rams either. :jamie:

.....but under that it probably also says "For sustained high speeds - add 4psi". :jamie:

You really need a rattle gun to get them undone. If you're not using the insert in them now again you could use a set of vice grips to hold the shock ram (shiny bit), but this isn't any good for re-assembly as the vice grips will ruin the rams. You could always take a trip down to a local machine chop or even tyre shop for the use of a rattle gun. Take everything you need to dissasemble and reassemble while you're there. :jamie:

Agreed, thats why I asked.

I was going to suggest that (shimming). Maybe just find yourself 8 thin (around 1mm) flat washers and chuck them under the rocker post. Do another comp test to see if that was the issue and then look at making some proper spacers.

You going EFI for the rota?

Did you end up with solid lifters? If so just open up the valve clearance a bit and test it again. That would be the most likely cause.

Whats wrong with a spare spring!? :jamie: :P

haha yeah you're not going to find one at SCA...... well any car parts shope for that matter! As said keep an eye out on here, ebay or have a hunt at some wrecking yards for KM36 liteaces.

Doesn't matter what engine it is...... ....Todd will still break it!! :jamie:

It takes a fair bit of force to move the wastegate rod.... well probably around 7-8psi of force to be exact!!! :P Do a google/wiki search on how a boost controller works, maybe search for "turbo bleed valve" or something like that. I could explain it but I can't really be bothered typing it when I know you should be able to easily find it elsewhere. Get it running properly and then worry about upping the boost. :jamie:

Targa is pretty much all in the north of the state now. They run 4 days (including prologue) out of Launy then on day 4 they head down the west coast a stay at Strahan Saturday night. Sunday is a run down to Hobart over a few stages and then its all over.

Actually ^thats a good point. What have you done in the way of a return line off the EFI reg?

Both of you have wheels with a centre bore which isn't big enough for the (stub)axle. I had the same problem with a set of old laser burn out wheels I used to use. You would basically press them on as you did up the wheel nuts. To get them off I'd either jack it up and put it on some axle stands, then give it a few good whacks with a 4x2 until it came off. Or - put thye wheel nuts on finger tight and take it for a quick drive around the back streets swerving on the wheel. The lateral load would be too much for the centre ring to hang onto and it'd crack off and wobble slightly. This is why I'd never do it straying to far from home. Frankly I can't really believe I'm suggesting either as its pretty dodgy, but sometimes it just have to be done. Once you've got hem off I highly suggest getting some other wheels with the right centre bore diametre, or if its only just fouling then maybe give the wheel a little attention with a file so it doesn't happen again.

Yeah all good to block it off. The tank will breathe through the filler cap. :jamie:

Consult your regional leader and organise your own. That was our second Tassie one.

Location: Florida :wub:

Stainless will be even more "raspy" than the mild steel. Give it 200km worth of driving and then see what its like as an exhaust will normally get a little bit quieter and deeper when it gets a coating of carbon on the insdie of it. :wub: