Taz_Rx

1, flange gaskets for twin outlet (KE30/55) style exhaust manifold. 2, "Hot-box" gasket - Where the inlet and exhaust manifolds bolt together. Be carefull here, if it doesn't need changing then don't do it. The bolt that hold them together have a 95+% of snapping when you remove them. If you do want to remove them then heat the ex mani with an oxy torch loosen and wind out like 1 turn, then repeat with the oxy. 3, Top thermostat gasket. For the bit you remove to change the thermostat. 4, Lower thermostat housing to head gasket. 5, As mentioned, the rubber ring that go around the top of the spark plug tube. If your engine is leaking on this side of the motor these would be the main culprit. 6, As mentioned, seal for the bolts that hold the tappet cover down. 7, Depending on what your motor has there will be a water outlet (to heater core), or just a blank plate on the back of the head. This gasket is for both of these plate, outlet or not. 8, As mentioned, valve stem seals. You might want to get a mechanic to change these for you if you don't want to take the head off the block.

Nah you don't need the backing plates. bolt spacing and everything is the same. One thing that is different between the sumi and Girlock caliper though is the end of the brake line where it goes into the caliper. One has a normal flair and the other has an inverted flair. If you try and screw the wrong one in tight you'll actually crack the casting of the caliper like I once did!! :wink: Evan, Evan, Evan. :yes: The whole point of using commo pads instead of corolla ones is the fact that it opens up a much better choice of better performing pads. You can't get pads like Bendix Ultimates for a corolla, only generic normal road use ones.

Beerhead was trying to advise you that resetting the leaves is a much better (and frankly safer) way to lower the leaves. Lowering block with give you the lower look..... but thats about it.

Well KR townaces aren't exacty rare. I think the main reason why there isn't many around in corollas would just be the price of them! Do a ring around of some commercial wreckers - Guys who wreck vans and trucks, but not neccessarally cars. You might have a lot more luck that way..... but still be prepared for a $1k+ price tag if you want say a complete 7ke with manifolds etc.

Illegal migrant workers to help you finish it?

....and FYI the motors were called a 5K-J

Yes I'm Simon. If I were you then I'd just get it running with the K radiator and see how it goes. Remove the temp sensor from the 4k and put it in the 2T, then your stock temp guage will still read correctly. If you think its getting too hot then adapt your excel radiator into it. Being a much new rad it should cool a lot better. The borgy diff may be slightly stronger but it won't be overly stronger. I would have a borgy diff and tailshaft you could buy cheap when I remove them from my wagon, but honestly it would be hardly worth it. Straight bolt in job mind you. For the power that this does/can make I think you should just plan for atleast a T series diff or Hilux, R31 etc. As for the drags, I'm just waiting on a new turbo to arrive. That will then be fitted in the next 2 weeks and then I want to head out to Tarmak again. This will most likely end up being for Tassie Nats on the 20th/21st of March. Here's the calendar.... http://www.tdra.info/Calendar/ Entry is around $50 (depending on the type of meet) for public liability insurance etc and then its $10 for an ANDRA day licence. And FYI the dragway is now under the management of the Drag Racers Association of Tas, instead of the dickheads who ran it last season, so disregard anything you heard last year about the drags be shithouse....... casue it WAS!! :yes: From all reports (I haven't been this year yet) numbers, both competitors and spectators, are right back up there and its now worth going again! :wink:

Always happy to help mate. Really keen to see how this goes actually! Would you be keen on taking it to the dragway soon? I'll grudge match you! :) If you don't want to have to buy a hole saw kit then you might be able to get the right size in a spade drill bit a little cheaper. :blush:

I'm guessing the "Holden Girlock Calipers" would be the big steel ones off a kingswood. I used to have a set of them on the front of my RX4 and they weren't too bad. No where near as good as the S4/5 RX7 4 pots I have now though. I've got an IDA fed 13bbp aswell and want to convert to EFI soonish. Are you just going to get and IDA style throttle body and keep the same manifold aswell?

From memory when you set the idle on a 4AGE you need to connect a couple of wires in a plug to do it properly. Nick would have known this if he helped you set the timing though.

As far as I knew when casey still had it it wasn't boost properly. Would load up start to boost and then cough and splutter. If you've got it running well now then kudo's for you! :) I'm guessing then that you want to swap it over to the '30 cause the '55 isn't registered? In which case, for sure swap it over.

Yes you can get defected for rust, but not minor rust. Check the RTA in your state, but I'm pretty sure here you can get defected for holes bigger than a 50c piece. Is it possible? Certainly. There is one getting around Launy where I live. Just need to get the angle grinder onto the B-pillars and then fill the hole behind the seats. Making some sort of tailgate would probably be the hardest bit of the whole exercise. Legal? Again check the RTA in your state, But I can't see it being all that hard to legalise. Here's another idea for you also, just turn it into a trailer.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...0208&st=540

^ :) 5k - KM36 liteace 7k - KR42 townace. Neither I would really consider rare!! :blush:

I think you should just get it tuned up and running 100% in the '55 first, then think about swapping it all over to the '30.

Yeah I honestly don't think it would be worth it. Like Philbey said t find a rust free roof you need to buy a relatively rust free car. In which case you might aswell just use the rust free car as you good one and this other one can just be parts. Is it a 4 door wagon or a pano? If its a pano and the rust is mostly at the rear of the roof you could always cut off the roof at the B pillars and make a '36 ute!! :)

Girlocks are on late KE55's and KE70's. So Kriso the ones Rob83 is talking about is what you already have. PM me a posted price for the ones you'd got silv. I need some new pads. :)

Most likely. Pretty much all Toyota boss kits are interchangable from say KE2X (KP60'ish) onwards.

....Yeah but does an SR20 sump need to seal around the bottom of the timing cover and rear main area? :)

There's one on Mud that you can borrow Dan. I wouldn't mind keeping it for later down the track. It just doesn't have the ball bit on it. Give me a yell and you can come round and pull it off. :) :blush: actually I don't know if wagon ones are somehow different.

When are you going to get that other car running?

Yep just drill those spot welds out and then when you're re-assembling just put some bolts in the holes you drilled. :)

The Girlocks will hardly give you a noticable difference over the sumitomos. Just use the '55 rotors with the sumi's, just push the piston back in the extra couple of mm you need with a G-clamp. :)

:) Yes please do...... with pics too!

:blush: :) The one that runs between the fuel pump and carby maybe. haha all good. Its a alloy fuel line, hang on I'll go find you a pic somewhere. :)

Should be a small "1" on your dizzy cap. This obviously goes to the front piston (#1) and then going clockwise around the cap - 1,3,4,2. Pull the fuel line off the carby and crank it over a bit to see if the mechanical fuel pump is actually pumping fuel?