Taz_Rx

Or just adapt a whole AE86 rack and pinion steering setup into the '36 then you can get your quick rack!! :thumbsup:

Have a read of this thread, cause I can't be bothered righting it all again. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17418 As Philbey mentioned I used to use a carter black, which would be suitable for you if you only want to run 8psi. They can only cope with about 10psi max. You would need to use a RR reg too with the asian's as the won't like 12psi of fuel pressure at all, my weber needle and seat would hold the 12psi so I didn't use a reg at all. Speaking of needles and seats trying to source a higher flow rate one wouldn't hurt. In the twin confirguration they're they're flowing half the fuel of a single carb so *this is only an assumption* maybe these N&S's are smaller than single carbs, if so maybe the single carb N&S will screw into the twin carb. You should have a decent return spring on any car's throttle, and you won't need to upgrade it for this setup.

Like Kangaroosa said the S1/2/3 RX7 brakes are nothing flash. I do think the S4/5 RX7 calipers however are great!! :thumbsup: I have a set in the front of my rx4, and yes there is a good selection of pads. I also used the S4/5 discs which were re-drilled to the correct PCD.

Somebody likes their Zuk's! :thumbsup: I've got a LWB Murati like that one with the exo cage.

I sold someone a KE55 K50 extension housing to mod a KE70 K50 and didn't have the shifter for it. We tried a KE70 K50 shifter, and both KE55 and '70 K40 shifters and none would fit properly. This may be the thread you're thinking about matress. Find a K40 shifter should be too hard. Its finding the K50 thats a problem. :thumbsup:

Couple of little things need a bit of a shimmy, then I'll chuck it in the tech articles section, we don't sticky things in these forums. I'll fix the couple of things when its not after midnight on xmas day!! ;) .....well technically that makes it Boxing day huh! :thumbsup:

+1 :thumbsup:

Sounds like he got the ASI oil cooler too Darren..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Performance-alloy-a...=item439c1f9372 :lol:

Apparently SR20 springs fit K's and are a stronger rated single spring.

Yeah bit weird that hey. Let me know what you think of the oil cooler as I'm going to get one of those soon. :)

Yeah Dan, double check them might not really need re-tensioning but won't hurt at all to check. Also double check your valve clearances while you have the "engine hat" off.

2 options: 1, Do what you've suggested and cut the tunnel. Yes pop rivet or screw some steel plate over the other hole. 2, get a KE70 K40 or K50 as they have the shifter further back in the right spot. :)

shit shit shit shit shit shit. :locked:

Get yourself a pitbull or a staffy!! :locked:

Yeah you're probably right on the ground wire. When you're fixing the permanent power put a ring terminal on the earth and ground it to the dash somewhere. The sheft curves up a bit at the back.

Is that "other item" going with it?

haha sounds like fun. I know a few local guys started a similar sort of thing called "1K racing" which was a total budget of $1000 which the ONLY excepting being safety. So you could spend $1000 on new tyres,....but thats ALL you were doing to the car.

Got any pics of said K series turbo kit?

You saw those too Cam!! I bid to like $450 and then gave up. Figured some junior speedway racer with a dad with deep pockets ended up with them! :locked:

Yeah like seabiscuit said its not just that easy. The chassis rail in the engine bay are quite a bit wider in the Ksev compared to the '55 so there your first major obstacle.

.....but you would need a shock which has an appropriate travel range to match the LOWERED leaf pack!!! :locked:

Jeez there's a few shinanigans going on in here!!! :locked: I hate being a doubter but I think you need some proof to back up your claims of RPM and speed. I've got a 5kte ke55 which has some very long legs due to my gearing (will do over 200kmh in 5th) and I'd be really pushing it to see 90kmh in second....80 maybe. I also currently have my rev limiter set at 7200rpm. Now back to the topic at hand being gearboxes - Everything you need to know is right here...... http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...eries/Gearboxes

We're not ganging up on you mate! :locked: We're trying to help you make an informed decision that will give you a nice look.......as well as a nice ride. dfunkt's italics comment problem wasn't the best way of conveying his message but the point is still there. He's basically just trying to say that looks aren't everything about a car. It also needs to comfortable, practical and legal!!!! The bit of his last post that I agree 100% with is the fact you should discuss this with a suspension shop like pedders etc. You'll find they will tell you that 4-5"s is also far too low and they'll make suggestions for a compromise between a ride heigh both yourself and local poo poo are happy with, as well as a safe and confortable ride. Yes its your car and you can do what you want with it, knock yourself out. But you did ask the RC.com community for opinions on this, which you were given.... weather you like them or not.

My car has the superlow in the front with a bit of extra "trimming" and the previous owner had koni (the AW11 ones) adjustables which he removed when I bought it. I just put some Munroes in and haven't got around to re-fitting Konis yet. Still need to decide what I'm doing about the whole front setup re brakes etc yet. Rear is reset leaves with AE86 TRD FULL stroke 8 way adjustables. But because they're so compressed I do have a bit of a rebound problem. This is why I'm keeping my eyes pealed for a set of short strokes.

And you think lowering it 4-5"s will rectify this!!?? :locked: So if you could lower it 10"s for $300 would you still do that?