Taz_Rx

Ok, you have all of the info here you need to do it........ but do you really need to if you've never seen it any lower than 40psi!!!??? Is the for a worked motor or is it just stock!? Its not like more all pressure give you more performance.

99% sure a 4 door ke30 (or even) ke55 rear screen will fit. They basically just had the same body with longer doors. Ke35 rear screen however are quite different.

Yes Koni don't make Ke55 shock...... but you can use the adjustables from the rear of an AW11 MR2. The body of the shock is a bit shorter though and needs some big washers as spacers, but this will also suit a lowered spring better and keep it captive. :P

:P

...and once you done it and have nice shiney bores again don't let them rust if it needs to shit for a while longer. Turn the motor over till all of the piston are level and then stick some oily rags into the bores. :P

Doubt its a K50 if the clutch is on the other side. All K suitable boxes (beit K40/K50 K-T50 [cable or hydro], K-steel W or K-alloy W) all have the clutch fork on the drivers side. Get us a pic and will confirm :P

Going to assume you're a kiwi when you're talking about starlets? The starlet and ke30/55 K40 and K50 have the forward position shifter and will fit your tunnel. As philbey said using a ke70 box will require you to cut the hole in the tunnel further back.

Where abouts is the tip of the exhaust compared to the back of the car/bumper. A mates TA22 used to do this as the tip was like 20cm in from the back of the car. We welded a tip onto it bringing the exit to behind the rear bar and the smell stopped. Another thing to check would be weather you have a leaking manifold gasket, but you should be able to notice this from a ticking noise coming from the engine bay.

......and you're keeping the 5k and 5 speed for your KE55? I think thats what he was asking. :jamie: Drove past pedders a couple of times and seen this out the front so good to see you're driving it. :y:

Hate to bug you about it but can I get you to chuck that mirror in the post soon. :jamie:

:y: Correctamundo. Crostek added. :jamie:

No you can't run an intercoller or BOV in a "draw-through" (carb in front of turbo) setup. This is because the coller with have air AND FUEL running through it, same reason for the BOV, it'll spit out a nice stoich mix into your engine bay. Internal/external gate makes no difference to weather you can or can't run a BOV. Yes you can run a carb after the turbo - search for "blow through". You can run it on the stock compression ratio, with 10psi. You just need to adequately tune it mainly in the timing.

I just ment that the price we paid included both in and ex manifolds. Neither of us used them though as we both have/had turbo manifolds.

Just realised you would have thrown away all you needed to make your own one of these Ben!! :jamie:

You can buy my cab and tray to cut down and make a shorty ute!!!! Can have both for $1000 and I'll chuck in a free murati 1000cc motor and a 4 speed!!! Seriously....... The cabs about 2 weeks off being kicked off! :lolcry:

Sweeeeeet!!! :jamie: I would soooo but that to jack up and tow behind mud! :lolcry:

Exactly!!! This is why you should search first. ;)

the 3k one is easier to lock. Pull all of the top out of it and you see a couple of slots with some pins that run on them that'll be on the inside. If you want to do it quick and easy just use 4x small cables ties to stop the pins running in the slots. Then set the timing at 20-25*BTDC static. It won't like starting too much on cold mornings but it will like to rev,....espeacially on boost. ;)

We'll see what the drags is like now. Íts now owned and managed by the drag racers association of Tas if you didn't know. I've got a set of half loved advans but they're only 13"s, guess you would want bigger?

Car has a stock 3.9:1 diff and the speedo is ready slow. Reads 83kmh when actually doing 100kmh.

Track time at symmons or tarmak? times for either? I'm keen to get out to tarmak again now under the new assosiation management. :thumbsup:

I've got one that seems to be for a 4.4/4.1:1 which I'll swap for a 3.9:1!

Or just adapt a whole AE86 rack and pinion steering setup into the '36 then you can get your quick rack!! :thumbsup:

Have a read of this thread, cause I can't be bothered righting it all again. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17418 As Philbey mentioned I used to use a carter black, which would be suitable for you if you only want to run 8psi. They can only cope with about 10psi max. You would need to use a RR reg too with the asian's as the won't like 12psi of fuel pressure at all, my weber needle and seat would hold the 12psi so I didn't use a reg at all. Speaking of needles and seats trying to source a higher flow rate one wouldn't hurt. In the twin confirguration they're they're flowing half the fuel of a single carb so *this is only an assumption* maybe these N&S's are smaller than single carbs, if so maybe the single carb N&S will screw into the twin carb. You should have a decent return spring on any car's throttle, and you won't need to upgrade it for this setup.

Like Kangaroosa said the S1/2/3 RX7 brakes are nothing flash. I do think the S4/5 RX7 calipers however are great!! :thumbsup: I have a set in the front of my rx4, and yes there is a good selection of pads. I also used the S4/5 discs which were re-drilled to the correct PCD.