Taz_Rx

Oh and if nobody shows any interest in getting there cars into a shoot, I'll just send Jip pics of Daim's and my cars. :D

Hey guys, Jip is making up a 2009 Rollaclub calender which will feature a different area per month/page, so we need to provide him with some pics for the Tassie page. I can organise a professional photographer who's a mate (Adam Sutton), and will wear any cost he may charge us. Deadline for getting the pics to Jip is the 25th of Nov, so we really need to get a wriggle on about it. Everybody is going to be off doing something this LONG WEEKEND, so we'll count that out. But I think we should really get it done the following weekend - Fri 7th until Sunday 9th. I'm easy for any day (will need to check when Adam is available), but if people can let me know when is best for them - eg Friday night, sunday arvo etc. Can I also get some sort of indication as to how many people can make it too. Lastly, also need suggestions on where to do the shoot, somewhere around town would be good. Eg trams sheds (churchill park entrance), park street, maybe somewhere by the water.....you tell me?????? Cheers, Si.

Touché .......Like that! :D

Convert to solids!! :D

Very sorry to hear that Ben, let me know if there is anything I/we can do to help. :D

No they don't really look any different to a 4k. If the coppa new what a K motor looked like, and they lifted the bonnet they'd probably just assume it was a 4k!!! :D

I've got a stock cam you can buy. I'll just pull it out of a spare 4k. Your timing sounds a bit whack!!! But the tuner must have pulled this back. I run about 32o off boost, which comes down to about 28o on boost.

I did it to my front bar indicators/parks when I changed the globes once. Thought I'd give them a quick wipe over and was amazed at how easily the colour wiped off the inside!

Well it wasn't a very clear answer as its actually an incorrect assumption!! Just double nut the 4 front studs BEFOR removing the cover. Removing the water drain for the block will also get you a bit more movement. :D You DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE SUMP! :hmm:

I got quoted $120 if I took them a bare block. Copper gaskets are around $100.

Nah its an o-ring on the bearing and I haven't damaged one yet. :lolcry:

ever tried to clean the inside of a lense Jip? normally the colour wipes off pretty easy!

:y: How's your car going? back on the road now? My engine bay is barren again :wink: and my turbo is on its way to Loupee. Be back in a week or two with the T28 though! :lolcry:

Once you've removed the axle retainer bolts all thats holding it in is the bearing - which is a tight fit. Use a wheel or a reverse drum (if its loose enough) and sit it over the wheel studs. wind on some wheel nuts bvut only by a few threads so the wheel/drum can slide back and forward. Use the wheel/drum like a slide hammer and try and pull the axle out. Once you've got the axle out of the diff tube, wiggle the backing plate over the bearing and remove the whole axle. When reasembling, you might need to give the axle some "persuasion" to get it to seat back in. Make sure the spline is all lined up though befor you go bashing it with anything. :lolcry:

Oringing would be the best option, but this requires a bare block to be taken to your local machine shop. You can do it yourself even with the block still in the car (as somebody here did) but frankly I wouldn't trust myself with the tool, so I'm going to get it done for me. Locking up the dizzy means you lock out the MECHANICAL advance, not vac advance. Pull you dizzy apart (its a 4k right?), ie pull all of the points plate out of it and you will find the weights and springs of the mech advance. Remove the springs and replace them with some tie wire. Set at 20-25o BTDC static and forget about it. Decomp plate is one of the worse options IMHO. Myself and others have run over 20 psi on stock internals/compression ratio, so just leave it I say. Putting 3k pistons in a 4k will do absolutely nothing, as a 4k is just a strokied 3k.

No, but you can get a thicker copper gasket, so you don't have to use a HG on each side of the decomp plate. Copper gasket requires O-ring the block and/or head though. Or.....Just retard the timing to reduce compression "at the time of firing" by locking the dizzy and running 20-25o BTDC static and you'll be set.h

haha you getting confused cause of what I told you about BOV's on AE86 today? Yes waste gates open into the flow of gas, not pushed open by it. The boost line to a waste gate is what pushes it open. :lolcry:

Yes main mixture.

....and wouldn't that be bacause 2 door or coupe seats need to flip forward to get access to the back seat!! :laff:

High quality pic coutesy of Adam Sutton.....

The lead that you clip onto spark plug lead #1 should have a little arrow to show the direction of spark flow. Arrow needs to point towards the spark plug, not the dizzy. :yes:

Did you watch it slide out? Consider it practice for when you have to watch you missus shit a watermelon!!! :yes:

Did you see I took a vid of your last run?

Have another look with the timing and look at the back of the pulley on top of the ridge behind the belt. That is where the timing mark is to be found. :yes:

I've got a half decent k40 that came out of Tar when the T50 went in. Held up to 100kw!! :yes: