Taz_Rx

Have had this theory for a while now.... Most rev-limiters work by cutting power to the coil temporarly. A convention change over relay can be used to 2 main ways: To power something when triggered, or to cut power to something when triggered. This is as simple as wiring the item to be powered to pin 87a rather than 87. So......by doing this you can easily cut the power from your coil when triggered. Next bit is the trigger!!! Many tacho's are avaiable with shift lights, and these can come on at basically any desired RPM. By patching into the wires for the shift light, you can get a your relay trigger at any RPM! This is easy with any conventional 12v bulb, but if using an LED shift light the lower voltage may not be enough to trigger the relay. So......wire the shift light to the trigger of the realy - pin 85, ground 86, wire the negative side if the coil though pins 30 and 87a and you just made your self a rev limiter that will work at any RPM set for the shift light!! :y: Casey (flat_out) generously lent me a autometre shift light tacho last week, to see if my theory would work. Took about 15 minutes to wire the whole thing up (already had tacho wiring run), only issue was the shift light in these is pulled to ground rather than powered, so that was just a matter of powering pin 85 from the positive side of the coil and running 86 back to the shift light for grounding. The result: http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/taz...14081703-00.flv ....an effective rev-limiter for next to nothing. That video was off by phone, as the camera was flat and isn't the best quality. I'll get another one up soon. Anybody who isn't competent with wiring probably shouldn't do try this themselves, ask a mate who is. But for anybody who knows what I'm on about with pin numbers etc why not give it a crack and have a rev-limiter for next too nothing!!! :jamie: For these guys also, here's a hint at another idea for a laungh: exhasut tip + 1x extra spark plug + 1x extra coil + pin 87 = :wink: 8/

Hilux 5 stud is 5x114.3, the same as falcons, 5 stud mazdas, skylines, 200sx's, 300zx's and many more. I have s4-5 rx7 4 pot brakes on my rx4, they were 5x114.3 and I though about a hilux diff to match up the stud pattern. Ended up going the other way, got a 13b diff which was orinial stud pattern and re-drilled the s4-5 stuff to match.

Did you take the bump stops out? Haven't really ever looked at a corolla one, but with my RX4 the bump stop sorta has 2 jobs: 1, obviously as a bump stop. 2, the have lips on the edges which hold the shackles in place straight up and down!! The slots you can see in the sides of the lowering block should also have the shackle running though them for extra support, so by the looks of it, you're right in say that they are not the correct clocks for the car.

Probably about time I made a comment on this thread! I have discussed a couple of times now with Casey, as well as other rollaclub members, and it has always been a topic brought up by them rather than myself. It's not something that I want to do, but if Tassie members wanted me to, would be happy to do so. We all know that Nick has had a bit of a "driveway re-shuffle" lately, and some of his intersts have shifted slightly, but I think the fact that he has replied to this thread within 12 hours of it being posted show that he is still a regualr visitor to rollaclub, weather we see him actively posting or not! Like Nick said, we have been pretty well behaved lately and not needed much "supervision" 8/ , so at least there isn't much work for who ever is regional leader! We'll let the poll go for a week or so, and see what other tassie members thoughts are. - I personally would like anybody who voted to make a quick reply and tell why you have voted that way. At the end of the day I think the final decision should be Nick's, I for one am only to happy for him to stay in the job, provided he's still happy to do so! The whole cruise/meeting thing is a whole nother story. I can imagine just how frustrating it would be for Nick to organise a day like this to have no-body show up!!! This does need some discuss between local members, befor anything is put on a calender again however. It would be great to try and get some small events happening again, but we all need to be on the same page, and organise things for days and times that most people can come to make them worth while.

Australia Day....do I need to tell you the date!!? .....hang on, just got that! :jamie: and yes.....its a Saturday, not a Sunday! 8/

Doing this again this year as last year was soo much fun. Will have the plasma running the simulcast against and a heaps tougher PA this year. All rollerclubbers welcome as per usual, come get farked up and see if you can't go home (or out on the town) with a pocket full of cash for the #1 song!!! - speaking of which, anybody have any guess' now!?

Australia day boy! that reminds me.......about to bump up a post from last year. 8/

8/ :jamie: Now all I need to do is get the correct date tattoed on my forehead (backwards ofcourse) so I make it!! :y: Your car or mine Casey? That date, I can pretty much garentee my car will be ready for, pushing it for powercruise now! :wink: :hmm: Better get the T50 in too by then I suppose, either that or take about 6 spare k40's with me! :)

The idea behind the "pilot line" is to keep even pressure on both sides of the jets in a carby with a SEALED FLOAT BOWL. Some carby have a vent for the float bowl in the top, when using a hat or box with these, boost can easily get into the float bowl and keep even pressures. If your carby does not have this vent, a pilot line may be necessary. Even if you have the correct fuel pressure, because of the air that is also in the float bowl, it will not pressurise properly. So befor the needle and seat, pressure will be right, after the jets the pressure will be right, but in between the 2 there will be a pressure difference causing you issues. By tapping the pilot line into the top of the float bowl, this illiminates that prssure difference and evens out all pressures. Its all about even pressures on both sides, just like the way a watse gate works. To help you understand, here's a little old-skool trick I learn recently for water methanol injection. Water methanol get injected into the plenum/manifold very similarly to N02. I was thinking of using a water washer bottle and pump, as you don't need any more flow than this. Problem - One of those pumps wouldn't make any decent pressure, and would not be able to push the water/meth into the plenum against any boost pressure. Even if you put a small one way valve in this line so boost could not get back into the water/meth bottle the pump simply could push against the boost. The solution, this is sooooooo simple: Make sure your water/meth bottle is sealed and holds as much pressure as boost you're running (this were the washer bottle gets impracticle, and you need to look at stainless steel or alloy). Tap 2 fittings into the top of the bottle. Put a one way valve onto one of these so the bottle can suck in air as the water level goes down (just a breather), the other side of this valve just goes to atmosphere. On the other fitting, use another one way valve, in the same directs (so air can get, but not out), and run this line also into the manifold. See pic below. Now, when ever the manifold/plenum see boost, so does the inside of the water methanol bottle, putting even pressure on both sides of the small pump, which can then actually flow the water /meth into the manifold. The second one way valve on the boost line from the manifold is only there to stop vacuum getting in off boost. If it did, it would open the other breather one way valve as well, and cause a vacuum leak to the manifold. This will also cause the water/meth bottle to hold pressure off boost, and it doen't have to re-pressurise every time.

Now there's an idea....newspaper add!! 8/ Wanted: Farmer too lazy to plow his own feilds and happy for houng houligans to do so attempting to play "car soccer" while distroying the 70's and 80's finest japanese and australian vehicles. Will supply own soccer nets.

Ok, quick re-visit to the ins and outs of carby turbo (or supercharged) fuel system. Draw-through CARBY>TURBO/SC>MOTOR Provided the carby and its components (jets, needle and seat etc) are actually up to the job of flowing enough fuel, the fuel setup required is just the same as any other NA carby car. This is because the carby is not under pressure. You also cannot use an intercooler with this set, as the "air" passing through it is already mixed with fuel...perfect for combustion! :jamie: If you were to have a back fire through the cooler (as there is no throttle body between the engine and cooler) then it would most likely explode taking the other parts from the front of your car with it. Blow-through TURBO>COOLER(OPTIONAL)>CARBY>MOTOR The problem: When you boost a carby in blow through, you also pressurise all of your fuel system - foat bowl, fuel lines, pumps, filter even the tank can feel the effect of the boost. The only way to combat this is to have higher fuel pressure than boost pressure, when ever the car is actually on boost. You always need to keep a buffer of atleast 2-3psi more fuel pressure. This is only ON BOOST, when the car is running in vacuum it only needs the fuel supply of a normal NA carby. There's 2 way i've successfully done this: 1, I used a carter black fuel pump which flows 100gph @ 14-16psi. This is a big pump and would typically be used on a V8 etc, but all you need it for is the pressure. I had 12psi at the engine bay with this pump, and did not use any reg, but that was ONLY because the needle and seat in the weber I was using could hold that pressure at idle. You would not be able you use this setup on say a stock corolla carby as the needle and seat would be forced open and cause it to flood. Keeping a 2-3psi buffer of fuel prsseure, 12psi will allow you to run around 10psi of boost. To use a pump like this with a carby that has a lower needle a seat tolerence see below. 2, Many brands make rising rate fuel pressure regulators for carby cars. These work exactly the same as an EFI RR reg, except they run much lower base fuel pressure. The cheapest and most available seems to be a malpassi (like EFI ones), and can be had on ebay occasionally or bought new for around $100. Heres a cross section of the malpassi... The inlets in the top left and right are paralell and can be used in a couple of different ways. a, used inline befor the carby like a normal NA reg. b, If your carby has a return line, run the line from the pump straight into the carby, and then run the return of the carby into the inlet of the reg. Then block the other inlet/outlet off, or you can use this port for a guage. Both methods will hold the selected base pressure in the fuel lines and carby, then raise it on boost. These regs can be used with both high pressure carby pumps >20psi, or a convention EFI surge tank set up as pictured above, but in both cases a return line must be used. When it comes to running high boost pressure, the surge tank setup is the only way to go as an EFI pump can make more pressure to keep your fuel pressure buffer. As I mentioned above, if high fuel pressure (20+psi) is not needed, but if you would like to run the surge tank setup with an EFI pump, you can run the power source for the EFI pump through a ballist resistor. This will drop the voltage to 6v and halve the output of the pump if it is too high. A rising rate regulator works by using a vacuum/boost line off the manifold. When the boost pressure comes up in the reg, it raises the fuel pressure in relation to boost. you can get them in ratios of 1:1, 1.5:1, 1.7:1, 2:1.....12:1 etc, but most carby ones are 1:1. With a base pressure of 4-5psi (which most carby will hold) and a rising rate index of 1:1 no matter how much boost you run, that 4-5psi will always be your buffer. Think that about covers it. 8/

Do I get to use the pedals too...or is this one of those I have to steer while you smoke bongs scenario!? :y: 8/ All good mate, happy to help. BTW, technically I think it would be 2TTC, not 2TCT. Toyota codes are always engine prefix, G for DOHC if applicable, induction, and then E or C for EFI or Carby :jamie:

There's really not too much to do at all, I'm now at the point were I'm soooooo hanging to get it going, but on the other hand happy to take my and do things properly. :jamie: I think most of you will appreciate were I'm coming from. There were a few little parts that I raided for the other car like the battery and battery terminals, so as soon as I put them back in it will have power. I can then check all of the ECU wiring, Ignition sensing etc and load on the Maps I have from Madrolla68. Once thats done: Get injectors cleaned and installed Buy FPR (bidding at mo) and install, finish return fuel lines Install turbo water lines (waiting on 1 more fitting) Bolt everything on and together Get exhaust made alloy piping from turbs to cooler, cooler to TB Final tune and dyno runs Terorise the streets of Launceston! 8/ So yeah, almost there! :y:

8/ :jamie: :y: :wink: Thats some pretty funny shit man. Have you still got that car? You might be interested insomething me and some mates wanna get going! :jamie: incase you've never seen it before........ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaIl9rau2Zk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fywPCkg9Ddg Plenty of my mates are keen to by $100 shitters, and we've talked about external roll cages etc. Heaps of stuff we could do to them on the cheap. Just need to find somebody with a suitable paddock for us to chew up every weekend, and the games are on!! :jamie: :hmm: Reckon within a couple of weeks, heaps more people would want in and then you'd start getting enough for decent teams and a roster!! :)

Yeah his is in a starlet and races against ge starlets, among others, k'sevs etc. But those ge aren't exactly stock either. Was very intersting chatting to Sheldon a few months back (I went and visited him on my NZ holiday). Said that the ge's are really starting to catch up to him now, now that they've been around a few years and theres plenty of R&D done. Compared to a motor that TRD used to race like 35 years ago. I think we've got 3 very distinct groups on rollaclub, which you have to love as it makes the great diversity you see here: The "keep it K" crowd: The "4AGE/GZE/GTE it" boys and everybody else :y: 6's, 8's, rotors, SR's etc. The main passions I think are in the first 2. :jamie: Each to there own I say, but you've still gotta love how for "similarly sized" engines, the old pushrod, pre-crossflow can keep up with a DOHC nearly 20 years its younger! 8/

Got Panda!!?? 8/

Ah shite, completly forgot you had that one!! :jamie: That was an addition to some other bits I was buying off the seller. I've also got another one sitting in Perth waiting for me to pay postage, but that one may be more of a door stop than a usable head. :y: Try and sell it locally and I'll fit it for the buyer for free! 8/

Just did this drawing for another forum member, thought it may be of use for others. Mods - Is this suitable for a sticky!? Diagram shows how to convert your previously carby car for EFI conversion, or also for a rising rate carby turbo fuel set up. As mentioned on the diagram, the return line from the engine bay can go directly back into the tank, or back into the surge tank. For the carby turbo setup, pretty much any EFI pressure pump will do the job (except intank pumps*). However all of the pressure and flow they make is not required for the carby. This can be succesfully halved by running a ballist resistor (ceramic box next to coil) to drop the voltage to 6v. *Most in tank pumps have a releif valve that will let fuel exit through the body of the pump. If you used one of these setup in the above diagram, it would spray fuel all through your boot!!!

I was going to seggust buying one of the Xany.....but then I thought "hang-on, you could make one bush mechanics style!!" 8/

idea: Get yourself a coat hanger and a fridge magnet. :y: Cut out a small piece of fridge magnet (say 5c-10c piece) and put a hole in it. Hook it onto the end of the straightened coat hanger, ie just loop it over. Stick that down the throat of the carby into the mani and have a poke around and see if you can't get the nut. I know its not a huge issue to get the manifold off (espeacially with extractors) and get it out that way, but if I was you I'd try this first b4 I took it off, and I doubt there's a home in Aus that doesn't have a coat hanger and a fridge magnet spare! 8/ But yeah, don't start the engine again till you get it out! :jamie:

Some people on here seems to think I'm a mechanic by trade :y:, but I actually have nothing to do with cars in my job!! I actually ticked 4 boxes - Salesperson, whitecollar/office, media, and tourism/hospitality as I couldn't clasify myself as just one. My official titel is ESM, or Event Staging Manager for the biggest Audio Visual company in the world. Run one of the biggest hotel's in Launceston and the North end of Tas. So in short, I'm a glorified corporate roady! 8/ I do sometimes get to work around cars however, for example new car launches, media releases, V8 supercars, and rock on Targ Tas this year!! :jamie:

Been there, done that.... http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/taz...¤t=100_0961.flv Listen to it spool! Radz - Yes 7k injection bolts straight on. They have runners a bit bigger than stock 4k that are square, see the port matching a few pages back. :wink: Hoping power will nearly double from last dyno of the 4k on 8psi. Who needs gloves, rollas a wortha welding burn or too! 8/ Was very interstintg to actually drive a 4age ke3/5X (Trev I dropped him into town in his car.....and then proceeded up the highway!! :jamie: ) Yes, it did go well........but not too much quicker than my NA car! When I get the bigport and a different weber on it, I reckon it'll be neck and neck!! BUT, here's the thing......How much does it actually cost to get a stock ke3/5X running with a 4age, by the time you get it all fitted and runnning, I can't imagine having too much change from $2K!!! And how much has the other car cost me...weber - $20, extractors - $130, exhaust - $150, Cam - $100 (+$70 for a bigport head I haven't got yet) and we're talking less than a quarter of the price, for the same speed! :hmm: And the next thing is......how much are each of us up for when things go bang!!! Trev - Yes I know I am comparing a stock 4age to a worked 4k, but thats why I spoke in dollar terms above. When it comes down to the bottom line, in my IIHM I think the K will always win hands down. And if you want to compare work motors against worked motors then just have a look at Blown_5k in NZ still beating fully worked 4ages track cars with a 3k!!!! :y:

Hey Buddy, welcome to rollaclub. Luckily for You Launceston seems to be one of the best rolla cities per capiter, we have over 10 regularly active members here! Firstly I going to express some interest!!!! If you're taking the 7k out....I WANT IT!!!! :jamie: I'll pay a deposit while its still in the car if you want!!! And, if you ever get sick of the rolla all together, then I'll take the wagon too!! 8/ May even swap for a sedan! If you're just getting into rollas, or just wanna chat rollas, come round for a afternoon beer and chat, have a look at my cars and I'll explain some answers. I live in the middle of town, just send me a PM and I'll tell you where. :y: Much easier than trying to type every option.

Oh and thanks Q for the half pissed bird shit welds! :bash: :fuzz: Found this laying on the work shop floor, what do you think!? :)

Ok, was very pissed off with myself yesterday as I though the motorkhana was on today (sunday) and didn't make it! :bash: Hence I thought I'd better get some work done. :) And what better than to get the people off me back who keep commenting on the engine mount/turbo inlet issue!! :D :( BEFOR..... and after.... So there's no issues about being able to get an air filter/pipe on now! :fuzz: