Taz_Rx

^^^^^Fully agree. heres a pic of the bracket, really simple. Just screws to the rad support panel with a 90o bend which bolts to the fan/shroud bolt holes.

Tasfrteight Aaron!! :P Nice and cheap, and very easy to deal with. They have depots in most capital cities (not tasfreight depots, but use other companies) and their main office is in Murphy St. If you can get the seller to drop it off at the depot, and you pick it up, you'll get a flat rate for size, qld will probably be $114. If the item needs to be collected from the seller, they'l use an on-forwarder and charge you for it. say $60 extra.

Are you actually overheating, or do you just want to upgrade!? If you are overheating, then a ke55 rad should be fine on a stock motor - Thats what they're built for!! So you have other issues like a stuck thermostat or blocked rad. I think the easiest and cheapest solution is a v6 commo rad...... inlet/outlets are in the same place, just need to lengthen the top hose. Mounting is easy. All I did was drill some holes in the stone guard for the lugs on the bottom of it, and then make up some brackets to hold the top. Done! Oh, and depending on exactly what type of commo its from it may or may not have a cap!! Mine didn't, thats why its on the steel pipe extension.

Correct. I've had a ke55e (square eye) CS with one ...and also a ke55 SE model that had one. CS has a tape player in it and the SE only had a pocket.

fark yeah, when do you have to book by to get those prices!!??

Here you go Casey..... Can see in the second pic they're still 2" shy of the edge of the flair.

Ok, I'll be a bid less of a smart arse this time. :D As sinate said, if they're only cosmetic, just bolt em on. If you actually need the extra guard room, you'll have to cut them, have a look at the pics of mine here.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...10940&st=45 You'll also need to get yourself some flair tubing, which has a flat that sit under the guard and a beam that runs around the join to tidy up the edge.

:D

Push it in till it stops. Use a socket that that is the right diametre to sit on the out wall of the bearing (bit that contacts the crank) and lightly tap it with a hammer until it won't go any further. If the bearing was slightly crooked, this could give you a vibration, but you would think that it would centre itself pretty quick with centrifugal force if this was the issue.

You can't assemble a dizzy the wrong way and get mechanical retarn instead of advance!! They work on a thread system, so you'd have to reverse the thread to get this result, which would bloody near be impossible. The only way the mechanical advance system could give you a retarding effect is if you set the timing with the weights stuck out, then gave it a rev and they free'd up and sprung back. The felt bad you refer to is ONLY in points ignition systems. This is what opens the points off the square part of the shaft. You should be putting GREASE on this, not oil as well. BUT...... GE's don't have mechanical advance! They have a locked shaft and the ECU does the advancing. Did a little bit of playing with a GE like nearly a year ago, so I can't remember heaps, but it wasn't like setting a normal dizzy. Timing had to be set on like 15-20o before, but before you could do that you have to earth out a couple of pins on the ECU wiring. To me it sorta sounds like you were on the right track reversing the wires, but are you 100% sure you swapped the right 2?

Since they obviously knew were to find the keys, have you entertained the thought that it may have been somebody you have welcomed into your home befor!? The reason I ask is I had somebody steal the keys to my RX4 - I knew who it was, and we was let into the house by my flat mate at the time. Luckily the car was taken, but I had to change all the locks and alarm etc. Sorry to hear mate. Hopefully it turns up soon in 1 piece after the theives had a joy ride. Really sux to think, but sorta prepare yourself for the worse, you'll most likely get a call from the cops saying they've found it burnt out like the last car my mate had stolen.

Its the same deal with side pipes. The must be at least 50cm IIRC, "...behind the rear most, opening window."

Spotted this on the way home yesty. Although its some what amusing, I reckon he'd just get reamed more for it.......

I hit a gutter drifting once with the back wheel sideways at about 50kmh. Band an axle, shattered the wheel bearing, and took a sizeable chunk out of the bead of the wheel. Hit the gutter so hard, my mates beany came off his head!! Noticed later that the whole diff had moved about 6 inches across and back into place in the accident. I know this as there was actually a dent in the trans tunnel were the diff had hit it!!!!!! :D Anyway, after a hit that big, with a new axle the car still drives straight, so I'll doubt you'll have to worry too much. :hmm:

you think you're a rollaclub hore! :lol: Edit: woops forgot what thread it was.....but you just did too Casey!! :lolcry:

I'm going to guess that an upper HALF casey as it doen't have any injectors in it. That fange may bolt to a lower half like the 7k/4k manifolds with the injectors in that.

Wait till you see the other half of the inlet mani then!! :lol: Lets just say I got a little excited with the dremel! :lolcry:

Port matched the square 7k EFI manifold to my big port sized head yesterday. Though I was goping to have to take the head off to do it, but only the manifold needed the work in the end. Just had to open out the sides of it a bit. This pic has 2 ported on the left, and the right are untouched. and all done after a bit of a polish....

Yeah mate, one key fits all. .....mind you that's the way it normally is with corolla keys!! :lolcry: :lol: Tray again: Full set, with "correct" key. :y:

Guy I know had the lenso shcu's on his aw11, did look very good! :lolcry:

out of interest, what do you guys pay for Microtechs over there? Is there local dealers, or do you just buy them direct from Microtech in Aus? Eg, this is what's in that car pictured http://www.microtech-efi.com/product/9.html So with the current exchange rate, thats about US$1000.

Yes, 4k pistons fit a 3k. Because a 4k is basically a stroked 3k, and a 5k is a bored 4k. Can get ACL pistons at a pretty reasonable price. You've only got 1 cam cause that's all there is! K series engines are OHV (over head valve), not DOHC (Double over head cam). Its not hard to get valve springs and cams here. Maybe you'll just have to pay freight if you can't get them there. Usual type of head work is port and polish, valve re-grind, maybe bigger valves, stiffer or double springs, as you've said. Depends how far you wanna go. Speed and power cost money!! Heres a pic of some decent sized ports compared to normal 3/4k size. Other thing to remember is though, if you're going to put a cam in and port the head etc, you really need some extractors, decent exhaust, and a weber or similar carby. You should be able to get a suitable weber pretty easy off a alfa or fiat. Something like a fiat 128 carb is perfect! I'm not going to tell you any more mods to do, go have a look in the members rides, and see for yourself what else is possible with these great little motors. :lolcry:

Think I probably ended up paying too much frankley!! :lolcry: Got out bid in the last minute and got the "you aren't beating me cobba" attitude, ya know how it is! :lol: Final price was $47. Spose it doesn't matter if you've ordered more, but yeah I got a full set - ignition, doors, and push button tailgate. Could have them for postage cost. Key does come out of the ignition one, but needs a bit of a tug.

Good Australian made ECU I see there - Microtech! :yes: Mind you we make all the decent one!! :lolcry: Microtech, Haltech, Wolf, autronic, MOTEC, and more! :hmm:

Yeah was just talking with Jamie, Q's bro this arvo and he was telling me about the 3te ones, said they're similar to a 4ke one in the way they wrap right back up over the tappet cover. Said they were only out of utes or something though, so I'm not surprised they're rare!h