Taz_Rx

Yes that works mate....... but Sam has just spend $600 odd on an MSD unit which retards timing on boost. If you've locked dizzies for boosted carby setups before YOU SHOULD KNOW its far from ideal. Got a link for the manual, I'll have a look over it. :)

Stock mechanical pumps are BUILT to supply a certain pressure..... to match the carby they're supplying, so thats why most don't have regs. Even the '74 electric pump change Scoobzd mentioned would probably be built to supply a pressure that isn't too much for the solexs. So this doesn't mean you can just chuck any electric pump on a set of side drafts and be all good. :)

:) :)

What I meant by base timing is what the timing at idle (no mechanical advancement) with the vac advance unit disconnected. Plugging the vac advance on should give you another 10-15* from memory so your base timing should be about right. Vac/boost line should be fine on the manifold where you have it. Because you have the BTM you shouldn't be locking the dizzy. The BTM can only retard timing not advance it. All its doing is "delaying" the signal from the point/elec dizzy to fire the coil. This is why it can't advance.... because its can't give out a pulse to fire the coil before its recieved it itself. So, I think your problem might be somewhere in the setup of the BTM. Doesn't it have a knob on it (or is that an extra plug on) to adjust how much timing is pulled out for X amount of boost? Do you have an installation manual or something for the BTM you can give me a scan of to have a look at for you?

You know what - I actually wrote $44, then rounded it back down $40 when I wrote that post! :D I did the same thing when I said I didn't get that head skimmed before. I only paid $23 for that gasket...... but then another $40 for oil and filter, $20 for coolant..... plus your time to fix it again! :) But at the end of the day still under $100 hard costs. Gotta love K motors for that. Try fixing a BHG on a V6! :)

Agreed. Angle grinder with a wire brush sounds like good way to do more damage, not fix things. :)

Rod's son's car is OOH808, assuming you would have seen in on ausrotary. Just Kidding Rod, I knew that would get a bite! :)

Thought so. Make sure you get it skimmed then (like $40) before re-assembling this time. :) It blowing this time was probably still caused by it over heating, but the head not being skimmed made it easy to happen. If the steam was the first thing you noticed then the HG had already blown at that stage. The steam was you coolant water burning in the exhaust after getting into the cylinder.

No don't put holes in where it doesn't have them. You're right with the water circulation around the motor. That always causes those blocked holes to do that a bit. Did you get the head skimmed before putting the new gasket in? If not then that would explain why you've just done another gasket so quickly. I made this mistake once.... " Yeah its a K motor, I don't need to plain the head"...... slapped it back together and blew another head gasket 25km later. :)

I wasn't have a dig or anything man, I thought if you just had a little more of a think about it with an encouranging push you'd realise that your initial suggestion was a bit silly. :) We've all gotta learn somehow mate.

Agreed. Re-calibrate the TPS in the ECU. you should have to push a few buttoms to get into the setup then put your foot flat and release and hey presto! :)

+1 what gaskets you been using? Genuine toyota ones are worth every extra cent!!! And what sort of base timing are you running? SLW how does a VAC advance unit advance when under boost. Have a think about it dude! :)

Hmmm, make an awesome tow car for your son's mazda!!! :jamie: :blush:

You are aware you need to do a hydro clutch conversion for the K-alloy W? K-steel W is still cable, but not these ones. The 2x bolts sticking out of the bellhousing in the bottom right hand corner of your pic are to mount the clutch slave cylinder off. :jamie:

All three of those would be copyright infringements.

Its a K-W55/6/7 (alloy case) from a 7k powered townace. There's also the K-W40/50 (steel case) beelhousing that can be had from a 4k/5k powered liteace. Neither I would really consider rare though. :jamie:

I was going to say that! Like PERFECTLY hides it........ as I'm guessing thats not a private road! :jamie:

Its just looks like a wannabe Audi now! :jamie: Mind you the new SS commonwhore's have the same "audi type" row of LEDs now.

Photo makes it look worse than it is. There was still plenty of room there for the clutch cable. Catch can was only there to cover up a hole in the firewall from the hydro clutch that used to be in that car. :jamie:

FYI - If you set up all of the fuel system for the turbo setup you can swap over to a stock carbed 4k with the same fuel setup no worries. You might just have to wind down the fuel pressure slightly if you're using a stock carb. :jamie: Here's a pic of how I set mine up with a guage..... The hose hanging down is actually the brake booster line (with I took the boost reference from). The fuel line to the carby is off the back of the guage, you can just see the brass fitting. :blush:

It would probably be just slightly longer as the cold climate will contract and shorten it. :jamie:

Good luck getting a 1uz in a ke10. The motor would only JUST fit between the strut towers I reckon. And then it would be so front heavy it'd be only any good as a drag car. 7K's came in both carby (7KC) and efi (7KE) forms. 4AGE...... Baaaahhhhhhhh. :jamie:

NOW ASKING FOR SPEEDWAY COROLLA TIMES!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE30...=item5189273a59 Will still fit the ke70 box. :jamie:

hyped up syched up ready for wil'in' standing in a crowd of girls like an island