camerondownunder88

Hi, The reason I asked this as my mates car had 2 SU carbies on it with a malpassi fuel pump electric one for carbies and for ages just didn't run right till he removed the fuel pump and then with factory pump in place it worked fine. So I have just been warned they can cause issues as they can over do the fuel delivery. So that question was posted out of interest to see if a standard Asian likes those cheap electric fuel pumps or if the Asian suffers with using one. As I have been looking at buying one for my self so was just curious. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Again still this project is on the back turner..lol Currently to busy with study,work, and 2 turbine projects,jet kart, smelter project to cast metal (finally got 80L gas tank for project so WOOT soon to fire up) and other shit so mmm this has been entered into cue at position 156 so umm yeah ill try this one day just not now....But I keep getting told there not worth it LOTS so umm I guess if ur keen there $200 from most places but one test it for us. Cameron

Glad to be ur trash collector..lol Did forget to grab that clutch cable also... Wish I could of stayed later and help but video freaks who need there fixes needed me. But what strut tops u end up using? Cameron

taxi orange is that possible? As my KE15 is taxi orange so..lol if do able I am interested in 1 Cameron

^^^^^^ PORN where is that KE17 sprinter hiding do you know???

Hi, Nice car will be a nice economical car that gets up and boggies. Also nice score on cheap paint work fingers crossed for you. Also just a note Xany 4K dished piston motors had the raised do dads under spark plug 1 and 4 so it could be a 4K dished piston head. But your still right not a 3K head as 3K were never dished to my knowledge well at least big port heads weren't. So could be a 4/5K dished piston head. Cameron

6/71 pfff that will just power it..lol Lets get serious a 13/71 now thats talking. Magnesium case 13/71 blower mmm now theres some $$ there for you..lol But I really like the crown. Do you know if he is keeping the small frigde/cooler thing in the back of the crown? Tell him next project a RT40 corona :) Cameron

Saw a KE1X today as a trades mens car :) I didt get a photo but he was loading his tool box in the back and ladder was on the roof racks and he was leaving a electricans shop so I thought that was cool. Was a bit run down so i though that would suit here. But none the less it was RUNNING and was a traddies car :cool:..lol Cameron

^^^^ I'm with Xany 3rd would give lower readings by far. Also a 5K has 48KW stock so mmm I think Mr dyno man is out of calibration..lol But GL with sale and also if it is the earlier head has it been shaved to run on dished pistons? Or does it run the lower compression great for a SC or turbo setup? Cameron

Hi, One clean KE11 mate. Will be fun to drive in. But a few questions. Are you running a thermo fan by any chance as I can't see any sort of fan in your first engine bay pic? As I was curious to know if your running a thermo fan how have you rigged up your temp switch probe for it? Also the 2 filters on your rocker cover your using for pollution gear how do you think these will go in rego? And does the small electric fuel pump I spotted in the engine bay work a treat with the -B carby setup? I have thought about one of these for my KE15 but am undecided as I know carbys can be annoying to setup with electric fuel pumps. Cheers Cameron

Hi, With your brakes try going KE70 brakes. I am putting them on my KE15 and there the same diameter as KE30 brakes but thicker so less fade id recommend that option as also you get girlock calipers then and pads are cheaper. Also I believe you can get slotted rotors for a KE70 I know guy with them on his KE20 so maybe if you get KE70 caliper same as AE71 calipers then just buy KE70 slotted rotors will keep the engineer happy. Cheers Cameron

Hi, The extractors could be fine John. As a 5K has a higher block height most extractors will be pulled up a bit to reach the head and then it throws them out so the extractor issues is probably normal. Also what gasket did you end up getting a stock 2 piece for the intake or a one piece extractor gasket? Cheers Cameron

Hi Xany, First thing while doing this conversion for my self I looked at using late steel and early aluminum posts for the rocker gear. And I can tell you it wont make a difference. As the rocker posts I had and I got lots of them the center hold in the post was the same height. So no actual LIFT as such will be gained. But just a though on more info that i didn't include in the past on my 3F conversion. I found slightly ground down 4K rods on 3F lifters will work (my 5K has a shaved head so if yours is stock well it would work better). BUT about 2 of my push rods at full lift JUST hit on the rocker and I didn't want to turn down the push rod cup any more as I though it would be to shallow. So what I did is I took the rockers off the shaft and the under side of them where the push rod adjuster screws through I ground them down to make it thinner. This gave me more clearance and if you go far enough you can fit a 4K push rod in with out cutting the cup at all so you could also try grinding the rockers. Do it slowly of course and a bit off a push rod and rocker would work so both items retain a bit more metal than just one losing lots. Now I haven't started my 5K with this setup YET. BUT cranking it over no issues it all works lifts and does the job at 250RPM so I guess now I have an exhaust for the KE15 I will actually start it this weekend for the first time in 6months so I will post again if I can say this setup WORKS at high rpm if it does you could copy me and it will work. But as for your conversion. Do you know if there were 2 different length A12 push rods or are they really A12 push rods? Also is the cylinder head on your motor shave? Do you run more cam lift? Are the valve stems longer pushing the rocker over more causing push rods not to fit? Are the lifters you have longer etc? And how far off fitting are they Xany? Just a bit more info and it would be better. Cheers Cameron

Just remember John NEVER touch the glass of the blub when installing it. The oils in your skin will make a hot spot on the bulb and they will fail where you touch it. So be careful. Also the kit you got for the HID lights did you buy a H4 bulb one? I am looking into an Ebay kit to get for the KE15 once it is on the road and am interested in this info if the bulb isnt a direct fit. Cheers Cameron

Spotted PNK70 today on Redbank plains road I waved was at the main set of lights there. Cameron

Hi Brooke, That is great news on the 5K install. I believe I will have it rego-ed no worries with the 5K but knowing that helps. As for the motor currently I have a 5K in the sprinter with stock sprinter mounts. I have a set of pacemaker extractors and it seems due to the extra deck height on the 5K they hit the floor and since they hit the floor wont even bolt up. Have any of you guys that have restored KE1X with extractors had any issues with hitting? Also nice KE11 majordad. That car would of been a steal. Gives me more inspiration to get my KE15 on the road faster. But all in good time. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Nah this thread can be old but can keep going. With the ridges that means you have a dished piston 4K. So a normal 4K head will drop that motors compression. Great for turbo or SC setup. As for that 4K the push rods in that 4K are what you need to run 3F lifters in a 5K as there slightly shorter. So if you change the push rods to say run a normal head keep them handy :D Cheers Cameron

heheh you all need to work with planes :locked: I have seen our composite work shop throws out up to 1m square at times if it is missing say ARM number or something so we can't track its history and we are CAR30 approved for those in the know and so we can't use it....lol So mm look around aviation work shops if you talk to the right guys you will get some but if not getting it will be hard. My option get the fiber glass and carbon fiber woven material. Cheaper for you just as good and would be easier to get. Also there are different grades of carbon fiber cloth also. So pending strength required you need the right grade etc. This will also affect cost. And what resin do you intend on using to mix it all up? Cheers Cameron

Red is 100% correct. To make a spring harder you have usually got to get thicker gauge wire. Or pends hot it was heat treated and wound also but usually just wire gauge will do it. Cutting the springs the heat kills the metals temper and well will damage them. And there very dangerous to have so I say sell the springs ebay prob get $100 for them and get customs springs what $140 easy $40 you get custom safer better ride and all in your springs personally not a hard choice as to the option I would go. Just do it properly. Cameron

Clean swap of rear housings. But while your in there replace bearings do seals make a short shifter etc just so it is a nice box for you. Cameron

Hi, Same ratio. Main difference is just the housings. The KE55 box I have is all smooth on the out side. The KE70 5 speed has all the strengthening ribs and is noticeably heavier by a tad so preference use the KE70 box. Also I believe in the KE70 box a few shafts were slightly ticker I will have to double check that but that came from a good source that info. So if both boxes are broken pull them apart and measure all the internals and see how you go. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Today I picked up a clean set of outer KE20 front suspension tubes that has the stub axle weld to it and the front spring retainer weld to the other end. Now the reason for doing this is I have a KE15 I want to put KE70 disc on BUT I don't want to drill and tap the backing plate of the KE15 stub axles as if I want to do a full original resto I can back track and use the smaller bolts. Now The stub axle is weld to the bottom of the suspension tube so what I need to do is see if the tube will fit onto the KE1X setup with no mods eg will it all bolt together? Also the front suspension on a KE1X/2X didn't use an insert so they all come apart and have a internal cylinder. As I see it if I can get that cylinder out in one piece and slide it into the KE2X lower suspension tubes I have I will be set. But will this work? Can anyone give me guidance on building the suspension strut so I can use the KE2X tubes? Cheers Cameron

Hi, I'm also restoring a KE15 at the moment I was curious as to what you needed done before road worthy what did they look for etc? Also did he look for anything KE1X specific also what about engine numbers did he look? As I have put a 5K in mine. But nice choice on interior and the black and green speckled rims TOP JOB. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well performance if it is minor i will give it ago I guess. I have 2 big port heads at home but they will de-compress the 5K in my sprinter so I wont use them yet... But I will try using my big port twin carby mani and let you know how it goes. if it goes bad I will use my twin carby small port one instead. Thanks for info fellas. Cameron

Hi, I had this problem one on my Jet kart with a digital gauge once. I found it was an earth problem. The case was earthed on the sender and the little insulating ring around the signal out line had been slightly out (was also a new gauge) so this caused a full 12 volts to flow giving me FSD on the gauge. So look at the signal wire is it earthing or shorted? Also these gauges can't take shock I know :cool: So was the sender dropped to much pressure etc? Cheers Cameron