Mr Revhead

me too :S

if you use a 7a then u get the stroke, which is what makes torque, i doubt you can bore a 4a block enough to get 1800cc.... also if you keep the revs sane you wont need to change the rods. and fit 4agze pistons. just don't go buying heaps of bits you don't need, remeber the 4age and 4age rods and cranks are the same, just theres 2 types of rods, the later ones are thiner, but still strong enough for 9000rpm and 250-300 hp.

4age i have lifted by hand, doable but not reccomended!! just a lot of people claim rotaries are light, they arnt!! unless you compare them to iron block V8s!! iv been around racing long enough to know whats what, fact is once you go past the size, or lack of it rotaries have few if any advantages over piston engines. and the cons really do mount up. GM looked into rotaries and mercedes did the same in the early 80s. both deemed them not worthy of going any further with. as have many companies before and since. if the car companys could find a better system than the internal combustion engine, theyd use it. but as yet no one has. rotaries are an oddity, thats why people like them, for the same reason people still play with sidevalves and pushrod engines, you can make em go well, but not best :S

ford blue makes it go faster :S

hehe yeah revs are cool, but $$$$ nothing wrong with building a screamer, theres no reason why a car built for "drifting" (oh how i hate drifting :S ) can be as sucksessful with a 7k max torquer as it could be with a 10k revver, but the former would be cheaper! to pull over 9k reliably in a 4age you need aftermarket rods, the stockers are supposed to be good for 9ish, but id never excede 8ish, certainly NEVER with blacktop ones. so as always its going to come down to $$$ if you have a mega budget, say a few grand, id go 7agte with forged rods and custom pistons, if not so cashed up, then 7agte with 7afe rods keeping it under 7-7.5. a 20v head on 4agze bottom end, all stock would be good for 250-300 if done right, you wont get much more than that.

hey its simple fact! rotaries do not last as well as piston engines. i never mentioned emissions, i mentioned fuel. lets take a typical touring car endurance race, rotary engined cars have to make more fuel stops than 2ltr turbos, thats why rotaries never win the puke 6 hour, even though theres a couple there that set fastest laps, they use too much fuel! throw enough $$$ at anything and it will win le mans! an engine run hot all the time wont wear as much as one used in everyday life, thats why le mans engines seemingly do impossible kays in such a short time. plenty of piston engines can run 45, i bet the rotary that does that had heap of $$$ thrown at it, as you would have to do with a pistion engine. if they were so great why did every one ditch them? cause the wernt as reliable or efficiant as pistons engines. oh and they arnt as ligth as people think either.... have you ever lifted one??? sure you can make a rotary make power, but the rebuilds are more frequent than pistons. having said that if he really wants a rotor the 4/5 efi one would be the best, if he can't afford a later one. whats this going into anyway? theres always the 1uz! :S

yeah but it doesnt need to be at 9k...... a peaky engine makes all its power a revs, which really only suits circuit racing.

actaully thats the very reason they didnt take off.... too thirsty. and the reason GM and ford dropped them. :S that and the reliablility!

for drift what you really want is a broad torque curve, giving good control. not a peaky engine. the 7afe bottom end isnt as strong as the 4age, but if you keep the stock rev limit (revs kill rods not boost, within reason) youll be fine, tune cams for torque, and itll be all good. these are knowen to be torque monsters

felix is correct, when comparing them you can't just work on the static volume of the rotary. 600hp from a 2ltr 4 cyl is possible, cosworth were doing it in the 80s in the sierras..... amoungst others. also rotors are not as reliable as pistons when tuned. in fact you don't even need to tune them to make then unreliable, fact is when compared to pistons rotorys lack well behind in reliability. then theres economy.....

i was going to suggest a 7agte. yes the 20v has the squirters. for torque you want capacity, a 7agte would be perfect, keep the 7afe stock redline and youll be fine, fit 4agze pistons and say about 15psi. heaps of torque. otherwise your looking at $1500 worth of custom parts

3tgte is miles more avail EVERYWHERE in the world than the 4tgte!! rotors= :S

exhaust manifold is the same. gearbox will bolt on no probs. you will need loom and ecu from the new motor. the old one is set up for tvis and the plugs are different

yes its easy. slap on the head, weld up the intake pulley, use the 20v water pump and cam belt. but best bet if your going for big power (and sounds like you are) then don't buy a 4agze, buy a 20v silvertop. rebuild it with 4agze pistons and TRD bearings. if your going for huuuge power, then a 4agze will be ok, youll want the early model big port one though, cause that has the thicker rods. youll still need to rebuild it. if you start with the 20v then youll need to chase down some thicker rods, which as it happens i can supply for around $80-90 each. new genuine :S

i know a guy whos done a few 7ages, he can do it in a day. as in drive in drive out. basiclly bolt off the old head, and bolt on the new one. hardest part would be the wiring, but use an aftermarket ecu and itd be easy. oh btw, thats not a REAL levin!

yeah! another MODERN car! that out handles, out stops and out goes the dinosaurs! :S hehehe welcome :wootjump:

hehe yeah that was funny.. they even said to run the tires at 22psi cause the poleriser makes everything run that much better the extra noise etc would be filtered out! it was suppsoed to harminise the molecules in the car..... brock refused to allow his sig to be on any car with out it. he went to an M3 then a sierra after that. have you seen pics of brock in the early 70s?? he WAS a hippie!! hehe spelling fairy cracks me up

my first car was a 3ltr capris.... man i miss it :sad:

first iv heard about them being crap. but id go with the 20v head anyway! if your running a map ecu then plug the sensor into the vacuum balance tube. funny looking fuel rail type thing above the injectors, the pcv valve feeds into it.

on my 20v, i conected both lines from the valve cover on to my can. previously one went into the intake hose and the other via a pcv valve into the manifold air balance pipe behind the t/b. now the only place for any oil vapour to go is into the can. rather than cake up my intake. but jamies suggestion is a good one, IF it seperates properly, not sure if mines does and i couldnt be arsed with the extra plumbing needed

i thought of the 7k, they use the g series box

aint racing fun!!! :D i cringed when that car hit the wall :dance:

hehe thats if allan can remeber any k series stuff... hes done so much since then!!

jamie, te27 bits are rare here too!!! the easiest way to tell a k40/50 from a t40/50 is the bellhousing..... does this box have a sperater bellhousing? if people have an idea on what the k-t bellhousing come sin I'm happy to do some looking. ok did some looking..... k-t series appears to be in ke74 (5kj) and kt147 (corona) JDM only so far, there maybe the odd townace etc that has a k-t box. so they would appear to be rare things! anyone else have any more ideas? rollin, maybe if you could post some pics up we could help more?

how do you know when iv been to jamies place? by the crater where it used to be :D like the pc one though, havnt heard that one before