MRMOPARMAN

alot of chrysler jeep handbrakes don't even last the warranty period of the car.. the corolla has done well i reckon!

when it 'snaps' is your handbrake falling back down? it sounds like a stuffed ratchet pawl or a sticky knob like raven pointed out

hi sim. your horn system is a circuit that has constant battery power to the horn, running through a fuse in the fuse box. the earth side is the wire your looking for at the steering wheel. it goes from the horn, through the loom to the steering wheel, then through the contacts and a round strip on the back of the steering wheel, to the contacts on the horn button. what happens is when you press the horn button, it earths the earth circuit out to the steering wheel, which is self grounded, and your horn blows. so check the horn fuse is ok, and get a test light and make sure theres constant power at the horn (green wire with red trace from memory) then trace the green wire with white trace (earth) through the loom, it should come out near the steering wheel somewhere. there should be seperate contacts for the 2 buttons in your steering wheel, both should be earthing out when you press them, so if you have a multi meter test for continuity between ground and the horn buttons, or if only a test light find 12v and ground through the horn button and see if the test light lights up. also obviously find the ground wire and connect that up. if you can't find or need parts etc and wanna wire up a seperate switch, run a wire from the -side or horn, into the cabin to a switch, and from the other side of the switch to earth. if there isnt a problem with the horn or the power circuit the horn should then operate. i could probably do a dodgey circuit diagram tonight if it helps.. hope this is a bit clearer than mud also :P

when i went on the GOR cruise on austrialia day weekend i noticed all along the road there were these signs which i thought were pretty ironic. lost pic of said sign but found another online..

congrats mate, i can't believe your sellin the corolla at a time like this.. you should be shipping it over with you so ya can do the 'ring!

yeah i agree, there will be a seal blown/broken in your master so its pumping all the fluid from the front circuit is returning to the rear when you let the pedal up. I'm suprised it hasnt affected the braking off the car.

awesome cruise guys, thanks to everyone that helped organise this! the rolla didnt go anywhere near as well as i planned. corners were so tight the lack of handling really showed up and i couldnt hold corner speed :yes: even more of a shame was stu being stuck up the back the whole time so we couldnt see what the K banger can do. great photos too :dance: ben and leigh.. your both nuts behind the wheel :hmm: funny how the only trouble over the whole day came in the form of a nissan :sob:

with a stock 3k toyoglide ke25 last tank i got 6.9l/100km.. and that was flat knacker all the way. yours works out to 12.8l/100km which is highly abnormal. i found i increased my range by near on 140km to a tank by a proper tune and running 98 octane unleaded. what condition is your engine in? old clapped out engines rarely get good economy. how about tuning? the extractors should cause your engine to lean out slightly. have you checked all the servicable items on the car? the plugs, air cleaner, fuel filter, points and condensor, valve clearance etc? are the plugs black and carbony, or white and powdery, or maybe a nice light brown tinge? also does your dissy have an adjustable advance screw like earlier models?

jarrad, you can bring up the rear with the dunnydore so ya don't slow us down heheheheh :D

oh PS, your more than welcome to join me for the CCCV cruise!

thats more like it jarrad! get some RWD goodness into ya! :cool:

awesome car mate.. how much would it weigh the way it is?

mate, i think you'll find the TO4 a bit big, and the carb a little small for the task. basic toyota superchargers usually sell in the region or $2-300

it really depends on what sorta deals you can get on various things, whether going going new or 2nd hand stuff, whether you can fab or not etc etc etc i havent had the chance to do either as yet, but i think for ease and cost a J pipe turbo using an EA CFI throttlebody and 2nd hand ECU would be hard to beat

yeah ok add me to the going list :cool: thanks mate

ever seen nanna drift her way too bowls :yes:

oh soulsearcher, if you can get your desired kit with single hex sockets i HIGHLY reccomend doing so. they are SOOOOOOOOOO handy for not stripping subborn bolts.

yeah that rebate is great.. shame they implemented it 7 years too late :yes: thank god for trade prices, thats all i can say!

yep, as raven said, 1/4" is light duty stuff, 1/2 heavy duty. 3/8" is in between them both. 1/2 inch stuff can get really heavy on the arm if your undoing a long bolt underneath the car. thats when 3/8" stuff is good. but i wouldnt recommend undoing super tight stuff with 3/8 ratchet. lost much skin on my knuckles with that trick :yes: that kit your looking at looks great. do you have any mechanic friends that would be able to getyou that at trade price? the margin places selling tools make is stupid!

howdy, as the others have stated snap on is the shniz, and their warranty is 2nd to none. but for bang for your buck.. KC, JB, sidchrome, and repco stuff is good. ive tried supatool spanners, and they shit all over kincrome spanners, but all supershits other stuff blows chunks. if your into mixing and matching, kincrome sockets are great (especially the spark plug sockets) they're ratchets, spanners, circlip pliers, and screwdrivers are utter rubbish. oh their series 2 toolboxes are crap too. oh and their warranty is bullshit too. just do yourself a favour and stay away from kincrome! heres a pic of my toolbox. mainly kincrome (didnt know better as a 1st year apprentice) now startin to get some snap on, JB etc tools into it thank god!

pretty sure bore & stroke is 81mm-78mm

chester could if a ram air setup was installed :S

umm yes :)

and ill finish them off!

depends how good ya mod the crossmember :jamie: