MRMOPARMAN

hence the low down response comment. ive heard of a few on 4age's, seen the dyno sheets and they definately do the job, but like you said they definately start running out of puff in the mid-high rev's. a good street turbo. personally id be going for an S15 myself. or if you after BIG BIG power (and associated lag) disco potato's with the small (i think .48 from memory) turbine housing is the go.

actually the redtop and silver top bottom ends ARE THE SAME as GZE bottom ends, except for pistons. with a good safe tune and aftermarket ecu which you will need, you should be able to run up to about 9-10ish PSI or with the GZE pistons, 20+ psi is a snack. as everyone else has said, the ball bearing T28's off jap S14's and all S15's are a very good turbo to use, or one T25? off a GTR if you want down low response. don't go over 14ish PSI with a GTR turbo unless you get it rebuilt and ditch the ceramic turbine wheel. so since your going bigport, do you wanna sell your smallport head?

that newyorker is shit hot. id love that, wish i had the funds to match tho :y:

i use the same system as dan. i got 2 hi tensile bolts, and bolted the largest gauge chain i could find to either side of the tailshaft tunnel.i used 2 large washers to brace the floor, which you will have to do. to stop the jingle jangle, i usually wrap mine tight before bolting up, then wrap in cloth tape, then again in PVC pipe.. the PVC is a bit of overkill though. on my race car i also used it for an exhaust brace, bolting up to a nearby flange. very handy! thats how some rally guys do it, gets through scruteneering no worries, as did my race car at winton.

simple if you don't want it don't click on the friggen link. is it really that hard to do or is it like a toddler at a carshow, unable to resist touching the shiney paint?

a 302 would be much easier than the chev, as they have a 60degree block so extractors would be easier to make up for it. parts are cheap as chips for them too these days.. 347 stroker kits = <$1! they are also very light for a cast iron block! if you get one try and get an EB on, or even better, an AU 5.0l much better than the older windsors. oh don't expect to get this engineered!

truck starter + toyota superchager = big heavy arsed starter motor .!

once on my L's in me dads gutlux we were travelling down the highway through woodend, and i hit a galah right on its arse. yeah i know hitting galahs isnt uncommon, but this little bastard left a GIGANTIC TURD on the windscreen, which wouldnt even come off with a pressure washer... i had to use a paint scraper to peel the shit off. i reckon it took a drink at a glue factory before deciding it liked the windscreen method of wiping bums. :ninja:

close, 1.4l actually :ninja:

ive been looking into using either an early galant, or a datsun sunny booster for my KE25. stud patterns and pushrods don't worry me, they can be changed.. beauty of these boosters is for the pissant booster pajero masters bolt stright up, and the sunny's booster bolts onto later datto/nissan masters so I'm told.

now take 1x AU sedan and take away 300kg.. keeping the manual aswell. I'm hoping it will be slightly quicker than my AU V8 5 speed yoot (not too much faster though. mate will get big head)!!

well the SC12 has 1.2L internal capacity.. and assume 70% efficiency if that helps?

jeez now we're getting nit picky.. yes ford called it CFI, but it was just a stupid marketing name for TBI. dan, have you actually bothered playing with the TBI system at all? everyone says they are shit are falcon owners, because they are restricted and the better MPFI manifolds are like arseholes anyways. for a much smaller old school engine TBI would be lightyears ahead of the original carby. and fords tbi makes life so fricken easy as most of the shit is inbuilt. at a joint i previously worked at i used to regularly service an EA series 1 GL with TBI. it was stock as a rock, unrebuilt low km number and would blow the doors off an average FMPI falcon. it must have been a factory freak engine but f@$k it went! responce is good on tbi's, the only downside is the idle, as the injectors are squirting onto the butterfly's, hence practically no advantage over a carby. but once you crack open the throttles, the differences are many. cameron, is there a reason you want to keep using the EA ecu? they arent like a delco that you can buy a program and reprogram yourself.. i think nearly the only people who can tune them in australia is a chiptorque outlet. it would be easier getting all GM sensors,and loom off something like a camira, VN on etc, and buy a haltech E6GMX computer to run it all. you can get them off ebay for like $500-600 and tune till your hearts content. you would be very lucky if the ford ecu ran AT ALL on a 4k, and if it did it would have a heart attack when it see's positive pressure (ie boost) in the map sensor. robert. the EF coilpacks wernt essentially a bad thing, except they used to die from too much heat, so it happened regularly, and changing coilpacks on a hot EF is a PITA! ford went back to dissy with the EL, and they were even more trouble prone. leads, cap and rotors lunch themselves regularly on them, and are even more of a pita to replace than the EF's. i just sold my EA 5 speed to a mate, and I'm fixing it properly for him atm.. putting an AU engine in it . :ninja:

nice work irokin, works heaps better than the old version

actually mate.. I'm 99.9% sure XE's never came with TBI, only had 250 with webber carb, MPI injection, or V8 carb. but anyways, yes you can change injectors on the EA-B TBI's. ive heard that you can get them in different flow cap's too, but never bothered to look into this. thanks for the pics of the maz. ill have to check it out when i get a bit more time.

gday, was the coolant rusty at all? as everyone has said, replace the thermostat. the way i reverse flush, is to turn the heater on full. sheild the distributer from flying water. undo one of the heater hoses and grab a pressurised garden hose (ie town water, not tank water with no pump) and shove it up the guts of the heater hose. start engine and turn on hose, watch out water will piss out of the pipe you undid the hose from. flush until waters clear. then put hose in the pipe side and repeat process. take the radiator cap off and repeat the process again. that garrantee's a well flushed system. btw don't run the engine more than 4-5 mins doing this just in case. ive done HEAPS of flushes this way and never had a problem.

EB series 1's had the 3.9 with TBI standard, optional MPI, series 2 got the 4.0l and they dropped the tbi. umm some early mitsu's, cordias for instance and some lancer models, and i think some honda's got TBI's as well. do you have any info on the mazda running the ford TBI? id be very interested in getting some info on it.. is it blown?

had a look through some old valiant books, turns out all valiants till ap5-6 don't have any outside mirrors! bit of useless trivia for ya.

ok first of all.. the TBI only came out on EA-EB's to replace the webber carby on earlier falcons. XE/F's came with carb'd, or multipoint injection. also the XE/F injection system is completely different to EA-EL injection systems. as robert said I'm fairly sure the TBI has the same pattern as the webber. i can double check this weekend. the TBI doesnt dictate what sort of ignition system you have to run. it doesnt give a shit. the computer you eventually run will dictate what sort of ignition system you need to run. on ebay atm there is a microtech fuel only ECU for sale. with something like that you can run whatever ignition you like. it would be near on impossible to impliment the ford ECU to run a corolla. also i believe the falcon TBI would be to big for anything under 2.5-3.0l. alot of people use them in blowthrough on 2l turbo's! maybe look at pulsar N13 and early camiras. they had a similar TBI system but would be much more suited to a corolla engine.

if you suspect the switch is dodgey, bend up a paper clip and shove them in the terminals of the brake pedal switch. the lights should be on constantly. if not the problem is elsewhere. also works on reverse light switches. but yeah whateveryone else said. get a test light and start checking power, and work back from the taillights. also don't just connect the test lights earth to the nearest piece of metal.. try connecting earth to the brakes earth aswell. you may well find its an earthing problem, not a power problem. both are as common as eachother.

gday, yeah basically what everyone else said, the R series engines are a bit of a boat anchor. you can't get off the shelf parts for them, they don't make much power and tend to have reliability problems. good engine conversions to look for would be the 4ag series engines, nissan CA18's, SR20s and rotors. all have been done 11tybillion times so info is a piece of piss to find, and all are able to produce more power than a corolla chassis can handle. for easy engine conversions look into the 2T-3T engines. they arent a bad engine, just a little archaic compared to the 4ag's.

heres another.. my fav

definately a mk2 flatnose escort grill behind the '82

i don't remember R and S series having the holes in the arm??

looks like a TE27 JDM mirror.. if it is ya got a bargain!