MRMOPARMAN

i think so. ive got alot of bills coming up and I'm already in debt. i may have to take the stocker or even the ute. fingers crossed though!

i just thought it was standard issue on that model grille? its the first of its type ive ever seen theres some badges on the l/h gaurd too, but everything else has been pulled off :y:

hey leigh, yeah jarrod got it going, but hasnt driven it yet coz the water pump was pissin out! i went again today to pick up the old bottom end (thanks jarrod, its in pretty good nick) and he was just about to start. i held him up for ages spinning shit though. it sounds shit hot so far, should be a fun cruise down the great ocean road :y:

hey leigh, mines doing the same thing atm.. sounds pretty common. i traced mine down to the idle bypass valve under the throttle body too, although i havent fixed mine yet (need to get the engine going) just try a few things.. pull the bypass valve off (should be a few phillips head screws from memory) and check all the vacuum lines to and inside arent blocked the coolant lines inside arent blocked and coolant is getting to it the air lines through and in the throttle body arent blocked.

hey lindsay, good conversion mate, lookin good! when its done you'll wonder why ya didnt do it ages ago.. i wouldnt be too worried about the firewall. as the others have suggested just get someone to check the wall while you press the clutch. if it was the brake master cyl, where your pushing against the resistance of the brake pads (through the fluid), yeah you'd want some bracing. but the clutch has no real resistance as its only working against spring pressure. theres no hard stop at the end like brakes do.. and all the converted effort is done at the master, after the firewall. my ke25 has a hydraulic clutch the same as yours, and i have had no problems with the firewall yet.

thanks guys, they didnt wanna sell it too me, and they butchered the chassis plate so they said it can't be reregistered (it can). so i told em i wanted to rebody my race 25. its way to good for that though, so ill keep the race rolla raceworthy, the green rolla stock resto, and streetable mod this one. ive gotta start coming up with names for em. the missus gets confused when i say 'I'm goin to work on the rolla' :jamie:

hey guys, just picked up my latest car today, a little KE25 early model. got a tip off that it was at a wreckers, went and had a look and just had to save it! atm stock 3k and 4 speed. who knows what it will eventually look like!

my point was at the time toyota only had 1970's/1980's technology to work with, not 2000's technology. advances in supercharger/turbocharger/ecu/engine development have come a freakin long way since the 4a was thought of.. so does that make the gze a dog? hell no. they did the best they could with the comprimises they had to take oh and I'm not saying the TSI is a dog either. i appluad the things they've been able to achieve with this engine. but i wouldnt be shitcanning one engine coz a newer one is released.

globes or minilites ftw!

looks like a good fun project. what V8 were you planning? is that your val hardtop in the background? that looks awesome. a chrysler V8 would make an awesome donor if your not worried bout weight distribution!

yeah they are, except they use longer control arms than later corollas. bout 330-335mm from the centre of the inner bush to the centre of the balljoint

whoops, i thought this engine was a petrol lol. 10:1 comp in a diesel is farkin low. i thought most TD's used around 18:1 with 20+psi pumped in. ohwell I'm sure veedub knows what their on about. oh has anyone been in a 2.0l TD golf with DSG? now the bloody GO! i agree with trev, turbos turns diesels from a lump of useless shite into firestormers those 114kw d30 navaras go real well for what they are too. especially without a tray :jamie: my favorite diesel (to drive, least favorite to work on) is the 3.0l grand cherokee. they go like a cut snake!!

on what model corolla nick? on a ke25 according to my control arms it would induce positive camber

well yeah, the 4agze would suck in comparison to that, VW has only had 20 freakin years to perfect it! i do find the boost vs comp ratio interesting though

the rover conversion definately wont be ready in time. but I'm thinking i may throw the race car on club rego... that should be ready in time

is anyone else thinking super troopers here? if i hear the shinnanigans one more time, I'm goin to pistol whip somebody!!!

mine actually has a ae86 rack in it. it was already done when i bought the car but i can tell ya the finished product it definately worth it! its so light yet has good feel and very direct. a bit more lock too. looks like a shiteload of work though. if your in melb your more than welcome to come and have a looksie..

i was thinking of doing the same thing dan to my race car. set of s13 coilovers, adjustable camber plates and adjustable lower control arms using s13 items. I'm not sure what the axle to strut housing inclination is but with all of the above items i reckon you could get it pretty close to factory track.

i can't believe you guys hadnt heard of it before. apparently in the 70's mazda didnt have a luxo barge to compete with the crowns etc etc. so instead of building one, the silly buggers went to holden and bought HJ? premiers off em and threw in 13bs in em. obviously they were slow as backed up shitter at a beer party, and i think quite expensive and sales showed. today their nearly worth their weight in gold

yes, to centre the rose joint on the mount and so it doesnt flop around. those rosejointed arms, have you set them up so you can adjust them without removing them, or do you have to pull the end off and turn to adjust?

ok i did a rough mesure of my control arms tonight and came up with this: total length from centre of inner bush to centre of balljoint = 330/335mm inner bush to castor rod = 270mm inner bush to swaybar = 240mm so it looks like the siggy arm is too short?

ill mesure my control arms tomorrow for a more definate answer. on toymods they are using siggy arms for supras and ae86s, so chances are they might be too long. you can always hack em up a little shorter though

orrite, ill take a stab at this.. my guess is that even though the esky strut tops bolt up, they are large enough to have no real adjustment in them. fix is either take the struts out and belt the bejesus out of the strut mounts, or get proper ke20 strut tops. ta22 struts do fit, but require some work. ke20 strut tops, a balljoint adaptor and I'm pretty sure different tie rods, brake hoses etc. siggy control arms are 300mm ish long. they may fit (i havent mesured ke20 arms yet) but i think they will be too long, and even if they arent they require mods to fit. heres a good link for ya to read http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14688 http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13217

ive got a bigport in my ke25 with a ke55 diff with 4.11s. its a very nice well rounded package. on the winton long track i was hitting approx 180kmh and still had 5th gear to go, so i reckon 4.3's would be heaps better. oh and don't underestimate the ke55 diff.. my last one lasted over a year of hard racing, burnouts etc... and only the welds from my dodgey welding broke

excellent. let us know how the engineer is.. i just got my hands on a rover 3.5l so id probably better talk to one before i install it.. if he's good ill have a talk to him!