MRMOPARMAN

look at what similarly modded 5k's with webers run in the way of choke sizes, then run somewhere around that sizewd carb. i think around 36mm would be the go. if going flat slide carbs or barrel carbs you could go a little smaller. also look for something that has an accelerator pump, or ones that can get off the shelf kits added. will make, making them work a lot easier.

ya kicked my arse and still had time to take action shots :D great photos btw!

hey guys, just putting my ae82 corolla back together after having the drivetrain out of it for over a year. i have pretty much all of it sorted out, except for a few little things, i was hoping someone might be able to help me out? firstly, theres a sensor/switch at the front left corner of the auto. has a small loom with blue plug and 2 pins. anyone know what it does, where it goes, or what signal is supposed to be sent to/from it? the car was originally manual and i think it may not have ever been connected, as the auto has never shifted properly. secondly, theres a breather off the auto dipstick tube. anyone know where the end of this is supposed to go? and lastly (for now), theres a small loom with white plug and 1 pin, it seperates from the main loom at the same place as the thermo switch, just near the positive battery loom. anyone know what goes to this? thanks for your help. cameron

howdy guys, a mate of mine is looking for one of these tachos, but i can't for the life of me remember what they came off. can anyone help? i always thought they were ke1x, but others reckon it was definately ke2x? ta, cammo

ke25's came with 2 different types of calipers. they will be either akebono or sumitomo calipers. before you go to the brake shop, get a pad from the mechanics and take it with you. they can then match it up. if the rotors are different (they shouldnt), they should be able to match them up too from whatever pads it has.

5R's are heavy old boat motors that should be left at the bottom of the sea. they share nothing with the 18R's etc. completely different series of engine. they are pushrod motors, have a massive 'half bellhousing' cast as part of the block, make no power and generally have nothing going for them. but a 5 minute google search would have told you that... stick to whats popular. i know, everyone wants to be different blah blah.. 5k, 2tg, 4age etc are common conversions for a reason. they are the cheapest way to get good performing engines and arent too hard to get bits or info on. and jono. if you were gonna do a 2s conversion to a corolla wouldnt you just pay the same amount and do the 3sge conversion from the start?

megasquirts are very low tech compared to even the budget brand ecu's on the market these days. if you decide you want someone else to finish the installation/tune or whatever, you will find it very hard to find people willing to work on a megasquirt for you. so you need to be really commited to it and knoledgable enough to get it done yourself.

I used to use james race engines (engine action) when i worked at city chrysler 6years ago. Hedley is a bit wierd, and they are expensive, but they do good work. Sorry to be blunt.. But don't ʞ©$ɟ around with old 4k shit on a 4age. Just use the original distributor, a decent aftermarket ignition (not megasquirt) and a GRA gas throttle body. That way it will make good power, be easy to tune and will be reliable. this is by far the easiest (and around the same price as the dodgier methods) way to go

you could also look into crane hi6 ignition modules with boost retard

Normally you could use your 4age ecu and just use the ign side of things, but in this case it wouldnt be wise as the factory ecus arent tunable. Aftermarket ign only ecus are cheap, tunable and you could even use the aux outputs to run the gas solenoids and shit. If you got a full fuel and ign ecu you could do the same, and not use the fuel side of things, then if you got serious and got lpg injection you could use the same ecu to run that. With the turbos. 4ages are a naturally really revvy engine. If chuck a too smaller turbo on it (ie td04), you will have ok torque down low but it will be strangled up high. I still stand by the t28/rb20 t03s as a minimim. They should be good for 180ish kw atw.

also, that dizzy sounds overly complexed. why not run the normal dizzy (or 4agze cas) with an ignition only computer? would be more easily adjustable and a lot more accurate.

i agree with jono. t25's are too small. you would want a t28 or an rb20 T03 at minimum. a disco potato would be sweeet on a 7agte

yep, very common problem. sounds likely it will be this.

280kw on 27psi is believable. musta lost the '2' somewhere along the line. as for diffs, F series, G series and borg warner 78 will all do what you require.

thats it.. I'm coming in a nissan hat!

ok 6 hrs till i have to leave.. better go to bed. cyas on the flip side

stu stu hes our man, if he can't do it.......

you can't just bolt a cosworth head onto a pinto and expect the power to increase. you need to go over the whole bit, change pistons and get the comp up etc, then you wil start to see increases. its the same with the 4age. you can bolt the 20v head onto a 16v, as they are very similar blocks, but you will lose power, as you will loose compression and have heavier internals. if your not keen on a 20v, then how will putting a 20V head onto a 16V be any different?

apart from the firewall, all that will need doing for a 4age conversion too. jordain - did you weigh the 3sge before you put it in? id be interested in finding out how heavy they are.

people go for carbs (45mm webers) for the throaty sound, they make as much power as a decent EFI system, and think its cheaper. in reality, the initial setup cost of EFI is slightly more, but ends up cheaper becuase you don't have to buy jets/emulsions/chokes etc to make them work properly, once they are set and forget, you can tune for power AND economy, and can even run multiple maps for different applications. and done RIGHT, they will give slightly better power than webers. if you mate is definately doing the cosworth head, start with a 7a, that will give you less capacity disadvantage. go either a smallport or a blacktop head. along with blacktop ITB's, and mount the injectors in the trumpets rather than the factory position at the head. aim for 11.5/12.0:1 compression. keep the internals as light as possible get yourself a 4A-W5x bellhousing, and a supra/celica/corona box. get a T or F series diff. preferably T as they are lighter. will need to be shortened to fit a '25. once you have all that set up and working to its potential, it should keep the esky honest :)

yeah they don't need that much work to do 200hp fly. where a 2/3TG is bordering on a cranky race motor to do the same. formula atlantic 4age's only make 220-240hp and they arent exactly streetable. fairly cranky pinto headed pinto's and datsun L series can get 200hp+. oh and I'm sure OP said his mate was putting the pinto into an escort. redwarf - my mate is collecting bits to make a cosworth headed pinto atm. yes theres alot of little bits and pieces you have to buy to make it work. once you have them though its fairly easy to get power out of them. wasnt colin maccraes escort rally car rumoured to have 350+hp fly? i know jason richards BDA escort is somewhere around that too. mattJA - as redwarf said, don't touch an 18RG with a 10ft pole. you might catch the aids they came with from the factory. even toytota enthusiasts stay away from them unless they are restoring a car that came with one from the factory. so as i see it, it you want old school cool, go 2/3TG hybrid. and later if you want more powerz you can drop a 3TGTE straight into it. if you want a sweetly balanced, compact rev to the sky motor with lots of options and good parts availability, go 4age. then later you could upgrade to blacktop/GZE/turbo/7AG later on.. or a combination :) or if you want a toyota motor that will ultimately make the most power, go 3SGE beams. then later you could upgrade to a 3SGTE (st205 or later.. earlier ones are pooh). however i think this motor would be too heavy to be a sweet package in a KE25. if you can get almost as much power as your mate, you should be able to use the smaller size, lightness etc to your advantage and still beat him if you play your cards right.

dunno yet, might take the corolla coz its got a full tank of fuel :)

just keep in mind.. a worked pinto with cosworth head will blow a 2TG-18RG into the weeds. a HEAVILY worked 4/7age miiiiiight keep up, depending on whats done to the pinto

in regards to events.. are you in a motorsport club yet? if so have a look at the classes they have, some engines might not suit, others might work out. are you after an old school combo? i wouldnt discount 2TG's, as they can be made to go quite well, and look period (awesome) in a ke25. i have a 4age in my race rolla. i think its perfect for this car. nice light motor and revs to the sky. just really suits it. remember, if you transplant a later motor into the car and want it engineered, the later the motor, the harder it will be to get done, with stricter emissions standards, more wiring etc etc. if it were me, id be going a 2/3TG hybrid, a blacktop 4age converted to RWD (not that hard), or if your not totally toyota biased.. a CA18 or rotor.

i think ill come over for a chinwag also. an apprentice i work with is thinking of joining the TCCA and getting into racing, so he should be tagging along.