kickn5k

I would not think any worthy engine builder would buy anything from repco, as they are now only retail stores and don't make any engine parts anymore. Would come from suppliers like ACL/MAHLE or PRECISION international. I`ll do some research on customers that way and get a reply up. Is southport too far? stu.

FMIC`s need a heap of sheet metal cut out of the RAD support to fit. Is the reason i didnt go 4agte.(now 5K with sc12) What about 7AF with a 4AGE cyl head seem to be a good setup and slightly different, can use 16 or 20v head. stu.

I`ll second that. People that have owned a set of datsun su`s have told me to get rid of my british built su`s because they, in there experience chased and chased a tune and never got them half right. But i believe that if the linkages were good enough you shouldn`t have too many issues. If they were bought cheap i`d rebuild them find a manifold and try them out. Mine had half an hour on the dyno and two years later mine were still sweet. Although in saying that they have since been removed to play with efi and boost. i still have my 1.5" su`s and manifold but are not for sale at any price. On my 5K i had .090 mains with a no 6 needle with the 1.5" su Good luck with it su`s sound awsome!! stu.

That is spot on from what my boss told me he did. But there is little to no advantage to using this setup only huge disadvatages. For one the cars strut towers need to be butchered for anything close to zero camber, but the caster on the up side is pretty agressive from memory and makes my 11 turn in fast. As more and more my car becomes less of a cruiser and more of a street/race car I'm thinking locked diff and a 16mm rear bar. stu.

Before all the new boosted setup was done on my car, i ran twin su`s on my 5k and from the day it was tuned it ran on. But only after a bit of punishment. I tried every thing on the ignition side of things to fix it. Went back to the tuner and all we could think it was maybe a heat issue with the carbs. It only stopped running on when i put the efi on, none of the ignition past other than locking the advance on the dizzy were changed. This leads me to think its either a carb or fuel issue "Might just be the nature of the beast" said the tuner. Oh and i only used 98oct fuel. didnt help. Good luck. stu.

Here is a vid from one of the classic celica cruises LB and myself went on a while ago. only 2 rollas. NOTE: We were under police escort through the bike riders.(when does that happen on a cruise) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJksNN2X6Bk stu.

I wish i got half that amount of km`s out of 35L. I filled up in Apollo Bay and drove to queenscliff non stop(200ish km). The lift pump sounded real pissed off with me and the gauge read on empty, coming off the ferry and drove 5km up the road until the BOV(so i have now figured out) cried out ENOUGH! out front of a servo so i filled up. took 34ltr to fill so had about 2.5ltr in it with surge tank. Works out to 16.5l/100km Top that J.P. :jamie: I was also trying to see what the best economy i could get so i just cruised all the way, as i have had it as high 17.5l/100k. It makes good power and was behaving great apart from the BOV dying 40min from home. So I'm rapt with the setup. Thanks again J.P and Mel for a great day sorry i could`nt stay for the weekend. stu.

I have a very close setup to that in my KE-11. Except i use whole 20 strut, with lowered springs and a "signature stabliser bars" 22mm sway bar. I could not recomend them enough! From memory was about $20-30 cheaper, than whiteline one and the company is "from what I'm told" owned by the Selby(selby sway bars before being bought out by whiteline) brothers. Can be purchased from your local Peders store. THE BEST VALUE FOR MONEY MOD BAR NONE!!! Which ever brand you use they make a massive difference. Thanks again Felix and ROL-110 handles great now with the sway bar, just needing to finalise rear tyres before deciding to put on a rear one. Yes it will just foul on KE30,55,70 brakes but ive only lost a little bit of my turning circle. Both worth it in my opinion. I'm pretty sure that the listed size is only a recomendation, and they are able to make thicker bars on request too. stu.

Tell me about it.. ;) But that will prob be the only way i`ll be able to catch up with everyone and to show off the new addition. On the up side i may have a neat as 350chev powered HQ SS and a Suzi GSXR750 tagging along. stu.

:yak: F`ing issues aaarrrhhh. Appart from not testing it for more than three or four half hour drives it seems ok. The main thing is i sort of overspent on things i really didn`t need, semi slick tyres(Lb calls them truck tyres)central locking and alarm. So it is looking like ill have to come up to Apollo bay for the day on sunday and maybe stay the nigh and come back monday, still not sure tho. stu.

don't take any notice of his spelling. He`s from Hastings, may even be West park :yak: Hey is that your red AE-82 with vicstreetscene sticker on the windscreen? I tend to see it a bit on the way to a mates place. stu.

It was enough to get my KE-11 through engineers in VIC. As the power increase is marginal a brake test was not needed. Have KE-55 brakes going on at the moment. In saying that when the lady at VICROADS thought it was going to be a V8 until she saw it was 4cyl. So if you get right person it might not be needed.

Here it is.... stu__s_rolla.pdf

I use a purolator i think is the name, it is identical to the facet pump can be a little noisy when tank gets under 1/4. But other than that its great! they are 35gal/hr at low pressure, plenty enough to feed my mates carb`d 350hp small block chev and my ke-11 for the su`s and 2.5yrs later still has plenty for my 5k, sc12, 7ke efi with 95rwkw with more in reserve. Cheap too! stu.

Well i was thinking of playing with some new metal treatments and finishes on both the shafts and gears. But thats all I'm saying at the moment. I have time to wait for a toyoglide. stu.

That should kill the two pigs i have rootn under the bonett.haha Thanks for that its a pig to drive at about 60km/h in 4th and 80km/h in 5th. I was considering a new ECU when funds permit and i get around to making more boost. TAZ i run a locked 5k electronic dizzy. I was probably only going to run 25-6o and leave it there. I have to go to webers place tonight i`ll scan the printout tonight and try and post it up. stu.

Spotted the white ke-20 with the sr20det in it in frankston today.

I'm using smallport 250cc high imp 4age injectors as the computer was setup for high imp injectors. I use a 7KE manifold and throttle body. The three rev corection pots have the led above the adj pots, i can't seem to get the top end led to light up but I'm thinking as its only getting reved to 5750rpm its not high enough toget to that section. Try to get microtech to fax you the diag but don't be suprised if it takes a while, i have waited 3-4months and still havent seen it the only thing is the old diag i have is barely readable.

Mate for its age the D5 is great!! Before this i new nothing about the injection side of things, well it can't be that hard as the "tuner" just operated the dyno and i tuned her. Great compunter to learn how to tune. Pitty about Microtech`s seriouslly laughable after sale service, has made my decision on what the new ecu will be and it WONT be a microtech. Going to try and dial in a bit more timming in and hopefully should nudge her over the 100rwkw. Once i can get the pulley setup right i`ll stop at 110rwkw as I'm not running a T50 and the secret K50 isnt finnished yet. stu. p.s. if you have a large cam don't take any notice of the idle A/R`s just tune it by ear. Mine runs lean as at idle but you max the idle pots its still lean and wont run. I have a tip sheet that was with the wiring diag that helped heaps, do you have that?

Well it WAS actually 77.9rwkw @ 5470rpm and 358.4nm @ 5132rpm. I say was because i fitted the new FPR, and the injectors and pozman wired in the new injector plugs. Went down to the dyno tonight and managed to get the tune nearly spot on, its TOO rich with light throttle at about 1800-2100rpm but you can't have everything with a dirty old microtech D5. Well it made 95.6rwkw @ 5495rpm and 441.9nm @ 4138 with 8.2psi and about 22ish degrees of timming and its a bloody rocket. A gain of 17.7rwkw all with a bit more fuel pressure 1psi and a couple of degrees of timming. Also on the dyno graph when they bring up the boost map its showing belt slip from about 4800rpm as the line goes squigly. Did the same thing on the tuners brothers b&m blown clevland. stu. I`ll scan the printout tomoz and post it up.

Its only a single. But a second may help, but also could add more load on everything. stu.

I think it will prob still only be making about 9psi if your using the vbelt. I used the formulas for 12psi and made the pulleys to suit but still only get 9psi for about 20min, then the belt starts to stretch and your lucky if its 7psi. I am using a 13b turbo top mount cooler, Which i chose because past experiences have shown NO more than a 1psi drop in boost so i don't think its that. I'm just going to put up with it for a couple of months until i can decide on either 5pk belt setup or a 1" wide gilmer setup. stu.

If it works the same on a 4K, to go a (so called)12psi from 5psi it had to be 30mm smaller on the sc or bigger on the crank. Being the boost dif was 7psi for a 30mm change and seeing yours is 10mm diff, divide 7psi by 3 and its 2.3333psi for 10mm puley change. hope that helps. stu.

Yeah its a 5K. I have not been able to get photo on the computer yet so the rides thread is yet to be updated(been a bit sidetracked too). I was thinking with a 5pk belt, if the pulleys were kept large around a similar size to a 4agze then that would add to the total contact area of the belt. Hopefully giving more grip and less slip!! Would also be alot less noisy compared to a gilmer style pulley setup. I now have the rising rate malpassy style reg, the injectors and the new plugs. Now just need new seal kits for the injectors. Fit all this and tune for 8-9psi. More boost will come when i can get a chance to make a bottom pulley to change to 5pk belt.

Hey guys sorry its been a while since ive been on this thread. I had the corolla on the dyno last night and the issues are starting to raise there ugly heads. It made 80rwkw @6650 with only 6.9psi at the manifold(should be more like 11-12). Some of the lambda readings were lean as darn then rich then lean and so on. So that lends me to think its the std 7k pressure reg not up to scratch. Seeing as 80rwkw is starting to get near the end of the 7k injectors max duty cycle, i will be fitting not just a new malpassi reg but the 4age injectors i have aswell. On the boost front the belt is still stretching but i am still getting heaps of slip aswell no matter how tight the belt is i can only get about 9psi out of the v belt setup I'm using not 12. So I'm debating on changing it to either a 5 or 6pk belt or making a tooth belt setup, but still havent decided. stu.