ke70dave

the other problem is. how do you run a lowered car, with short stroke shocks, without cutting and welding the shock tube? potentially a grey area. could give an engineer a call. i tried calling a few engineers about it a few yrs ago, didnt get very far.

i think it all comes unstuck with the clause that goes something like "you arent allowed to weld anythign suspension related" and most coilvoers are welded somehow. unless you can find some ADR approved off the shelf items.

soooo....what are you asking? if you are asking about camber tops, the problem arises that there isnt much room in the strut tower for the strut to move (with the camber top) before it hits the side of the strut tower. gotta for for a skinier spring option, which is usually done by going the coilover route.

ah fair enough. i recall when i first got my ke, took it down to the wheel alignment shop after replacing a bunch of stuff in the front end. i had so much toe in in the front that it actually looked pidgeon toed from front on (it was a big rush to get it to wheel align shop, so i didnt do a proper home alignment), and front ride height was about ~50mm higher than it should be. geez that was a fun drive, tyres were just about screeching while driving.

@ 20mm of toe.. that would struggle to drive straight yeah?!

i dunno if its a bug, or if there is some method to it... but whats that little icon under some peoples names when they post, its under ironkin's name and a few othres, including this new guy www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59608-post-update-bugs/page__st__45 and he has only posted once! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59713-ke70-for-sale/page__p__598237#entry598237 that little grey icon, with "CC" on it, and when you click it it links to: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ i think carbonboy has it too.

would be pretty decent then. how thick is it? multi core? hondas in general seem to have small radiators.

awesome video. i went for a spin in a replica cobra a few months back, no side pipes unfortuantely, werent ADR apparently, i wasnt that impressed with the replica, but i can see the appeal. i love that tinny noise you sometimes get from these v8s exhausts, i dunno what it is, same noise that eleanor car form gone in 60secs. ill have the last one thanks, the grey one, or the blue one at ~3min.

hang on a sec. it sais 10watts of power power = voltage x current 10 = 12 x Current current = 0.83 amps therefore, that light, at 12V will draw 0.83amps. you can't control the current, you can't "output 2 amps", the thing draws as much current as it needs too based on its resistance. so the selller isnt very tech savy... especially considering that it sais on the ebay advert "- Input Voltage: DC 9-12V 50/60Hz".....DC doesnt fluctuate at 50/60hz. it is the power supply that has the capacity of X amps, which allows it to draw X amps. for example, if you had a 12V power supply that had the capacity to run say...0.5A, and you connect that thing, you would likely blow up the power supply before the LED light, as the LED light would just keep drawing 0.83amps, over loading the power supply. LEDs are highly sensitive, if you have supplied it with more than 12V, which you probably have if you were using an unregulated power source, or the car battery with the engine running, thats why it blew up. jono is in the right idea with that regulator, just make sure the regulator can handle 0.83amps @ 12V and youll be laughing. pretty sweet little light though, and for 17bucks......maybe ill buy one.

Annoyingly, of all the options i have considered for a full blown track car, the ke70 or ae86 still wins in terms of modernish, cheapish and ease of modification. unfortunately it looks like a shoe box. a cool shoe box, but certainly not the nice curves of other late 70's early 80s cars. the big calling cards (appart from RWD), i feel, of the ke70 is the 5 link rear end, and rack and pinion steering. start looking pre ~1984ish, RWD and reasonably popular for ease of parts and panels, you can't escape leaf springs and steering box's unless you go the ke70. sure the leaf springs and steering box can be made to work, but i would prefer to at least get rack and pinion. though to be honest my only experience with steering box was driving a worn out S2 RX7, and the +/- 45deg in the steering wheel did not inspire confidence. i have been eyeing off the 929 4 doors, and ive even seen a few import 929 2 doors for sale, which are the piston version of an RX4. steering box and leaf spring asside, geez they can look cool. too bad the rotary/mazda scene is as bad as the 86 scene when it comes to obscene prices for oem parts. open too suggestions. perhaps i have missed something.

depends who you are selling too. chuck it on ebay and you might get some bites. a mate of mine used one in his austin healey sprite, so their uses certainly arent soley toyota.

I dunno if this is a grinds my gears, i guess it is. What is going on with the price of ke70s? are people actually paying these absoluately rediculous prices? "for sale: ke70, no engine or gear box, suit project track car, needs new tyres, has a sports steering wheel, few dents, otherwise stock - $900" when did "suit project car" INCREASE the asking price? suit project car = going to need a good amount of time and money spent on it to get it to driving condition, how is that worth twice the price? or then you get the not so bad cars "for sale, ke70, registered for 6months, RWC included, lowered springs, $3800"....... are people buying these?! I have been looking around for another ke70 sort of, got a bit of an engine in the build and looking for something to put it in. but at these prices, i am better off looking at something rarer and alot cooler. get better value than a busted up ke70. mazda 929 (RX4 style) or even an old datsun or something. (nb: not real advertisements, but some are pretty simliar...) so are people generally happy to pay these prices?

That one with the roof racks looks cool as.

almost... it doesnt reduce body roll. it merely changes where the roll centre is. when you lower a car you stuff with the roll centre, which causes fun things to happen, RCAs put the roll centre closer to where it was stock. RCAs help with bump steer, which has nothing to do with roll center. cheap mod that seems to work.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Subaru-impreza-wrx-99-gc8-front-and-back-seats-/251035248966?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a72dde946 wrx seats? they are comfy and supportive, they seem to go for about 300/pair.

Bleh you don't want stock seats, but you don't want monza either. Find some dc2 integra seats. Not cheap (i sold one for $400...) but Soo good.

sounds like your idle jet is blocked. Pull carby appart, clean thoroughly, put back together. perhaps your tank is full of crap, and your fuel filter needs replacing again.

sorry mate..... hadnt even had a chance to look at rollaclub on the weekend, too big! but basically as stated, you need to make yourself an EFI relay. which is essentailly a relay that turns on with the IGN power, thats all. and yeah you can't mount it in the fuse box, no room, i just bolted it next to the fuse box. Best bet is to grab a multi meter, find a wire around the fuse box that turns on with IGN. i think i used the old 4k coil power, but i also recall there were a few spare slots in the back of the fuse box where you could put a spade connector to get +12V IGN as well. use that to turn on your relay, to trigger +12 (find another 12V source to switch) and this becomes your EFI/+12V ignition source for all your engine/ecu/fuel pump relay powers.

pending how your cooling system is done.... if you have a remote thermostat housing off an ae82/92 then there are 2 temp senders in it, one is for the ecu, one is for the temp guage. (one green one brown i think, can't recall which was which....) when i did mine, i just removed the temp guage one, and put in the sender i got with my temp guage (VDO) you will have to install the sender that came with the guage, and use it for one guage only. they work off resistance so running 2 guages off one sender will cause problems i reckon. and yeah it needs to be grounded to something, not necessarilly engine. when i had that remote thermostat housing i just ran a wire from the thermostat housing to the chassis.

Untill you are involved in an accident, especailly if someone dies.

it really is quite massive upgrade from an uninteligent useres point of view (ie me). So much stuff moves and flashes with with mouse overs. one thing i have noticed is that when you type stuff in this reply box, and you make stuff bold or italics, it doesnt have the HTML style stuff, it does it straight away. dunno the tech of this, but its much better!

nice guage holder thing. thats exactly what i wanted to do on mine, but got lazy. i ended up putting my warning lights (check engine and alternator charge) in the original stereo volume/tuning knob holes! yeah i was lazy.

very very nice!

My house mate and i could not stop laughing at this.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IixQox4rhEw

The number is stamped Just in front of the starter motor on the block, under the intake/exhaust mess.