styler

well ke20 and 25 are +30 offset from factory so id say ke30 and ke55 probably would be close, just phone up a tyre place and ask them to look it up for you. offset, width and backspace are all related! can't give you an offset without a width as you need to run close to the original backspace for turning purposes if you want to run it on the road or track.

there are many options, a larger radiator is not too practical due to lack of space and custom mounts etc. do yourself a favour and get a custom 3 core aluminuim one made to standard specs, toymods has a special deal for $500 or recore the original with a 3 core for about $350.

for awesome job : get them sandblasted and paint with 1 coat metal etch primer then colour of your choice 2 coats then 2 coats clear. for cheap job: high pressure clean, 3 coats cheap black spraypaint remember to mask well.

if you want to do it right, get tyres with the same rolling diameter as stock or close, get lowered springs for the front $140 and get the rears reset by a springworks $180. there are tyre calculators online that will allow you to enter tyre specs to get a circumference, ie rolling diameter - kumho.com.au has one.

its not the wheel studs that should be holding the car weight, its the hub spigot, on stock rims the spigot hole is the correct size, for most mags or other car rims you can use spigot locating rings that fill the oversized hole and locate on the hub spigot. spacers will not allow the spigot hole to locate on the hub and then its up the the wheel studs which arent at a shear force anymore thanks to the spacers pushing them out which makes the studs weaker, not that they should be taking so much force in the first place. then the nuts don't go on as far as they are meant too due to the spacer so you get less engagement. you can change to longer wheel studs but it doesnt solve the other 2 problems. so its better to get rims that fit :) or modify that caliper :)

ke30 is 1355mm drum mounting face to drum mounting face

ke20 is 1320mm drum mounting face to drum mounting face :)

a couple of hundred for a standard ke corolla to a couple of thousand for an absolutely overrated one.

778kg auto model, stated by qld code of practice light motor vehicles.

couldnt have said it better!

???

haha fat chance! i wouldnt but it can be done.... 2k will get you fast or reliable take your pick :locked:

maybe not that much! but definately more than front wheel drive. awd is by far the worst though. hey irokin just interested in the arias perspective you have as i have considered them but not actually looked into them fully as a few people seemed to have the same perception and i got another brand custom made.

i wouldnt recommend 3tgteu unless you are familiar with these motors and really want one. its huge in the states to modify the 3tc anywhere from 70 to 700hp. and so theres a huge amount of parts avaliable quite cheaply. check toyota3tc.com for more info.

try toymods as the 18rg is a lot more popular on there with the celica boys. try some searches and i think theres even a whole thread on 18rg specs, mods and parts.

sizes: ke20 U series = 1320mm mounting face to mounting face. ta22 T series = 1355mm mounting face to mounting face (narrowest t series avalable in aus) measuring: so get a straight edge vertical on the rim / tyre combo to be used and see where the tyres are from the wheel arch section in mm. now you will see with a X amount wider diff where the tyres will end up. modification: you can now decide on how to keep them under the arches using one or more of the following methods: 1. roll lip gets about 15mm a side 2. roll lip / pump guards (skilled job), 15 to 25mm a side 3. run more positive offset rims ( ie more backspace ) 0 to 20mm a side 4. shorten diff housing (very skilled job) / cut axles about 10mm a side 5. shorten diff housing (very skilled job) / cut axles / respline axles (very skilled job) 10 to 25mm and more a side Or you can run them ouside the arches with flares, on the front this is ok as the wheels move inwards as they move upwards, on the rear the arch may need cutting as the axle movement can be vertical and hit the arches. mounts: then you need to cut off the old mounts carefully off the ke20 diff and also cut the mounts off the ta22 diff and clean it up. then weld the ke20 mounts in the correct position on the ta22 diff taking care of the angles you weld them on. rebuild: new bearings and seals are a good idea if you have gone to the trouble of going this far, also clean up housing and new gaskets and paint. ratios: see whats avaliable from other model t series diffs and choose the one that closest meets your needs. centre: get diff checked out at diff shop and backlash and preload done if needed. tailshaft: probably have to shorten a one piece t series one and change gearbox end yoke depending on gearbox used, get tailshaft balanced. brakes: get all the t series handbrake stuff from the donor car as well as the brake lines and splitter. the handbrake system may need modification using new or old or a combo of both. get new drum wheel cylinders and new pads / drums if needed and install / adjust to spec. oil: use decent oil to fill diff, just a mineral $30 should be ok. clutch lsd must run special oil! rims: if you run positive offset rims on the rear to fit the diff in note that the front rims cannot run a more positive offset ( more backspace ) as they will hit the strut. so its either unusal mismatched rims (ie front more dish than rear) or maybe bolt on spacers for the front which may not be legal. axles: ta22 are 24mm, ie zenki. not thick but will handle 160 hp at the fly with good race driving (at a guess), also axle cutting and resplining, the axles have to be suitable for shortening, sometimes they arent due to length required, or the area to be cut is too thin (no meat) or too thick (removes outside hardening) zenki/kouki? this means early and late model. aus got zenki t series diffs not kouki t series. zenki in aus is in ta22, t18 and a couple more cars in varying widths and mount systems. kouki is 25mm splines on axles and does not interchange with 24mm zenki splines. if you have the kouki diff and kouki axles i believe it interchanges to the zenki housing. kouki lsd is avaliable in 1, 1.5 and 2 way. kouki t series diffs are the ae86 sprinter diffs with disc brakes, very rare and expensive in aus but avaliable for about $1500. lsd: coming another day.... prob a whole writeup itself. in short they are avaliable for ta22 t series (ie zenki small axle, all aus t series) in 1 way and possibly 1.5 and 2 way (check avalibility). kaaz, cusco are highly rated aftermarket. you can rebuild an orignal unit but its expensive $400 a kit i believe plus labour. aftermarket does not need to shorten axles, original lsd requires the shorter lsd axles or cut yours down a bit to suit. you probably will need a shop to install the lsd and set it up properly. any corrections / additions welcome :wink:

piston size to see if it has been bored out with bigger pistons. shape of the piston top to see if its another type of piston, eg higher compression dome etc lightened flywheel, feel round the back for a big step take off sump and see if pistons are forged or cast by looking inside the piston for casting marks you might be able to see if the crank has been rebalanced with recent holes drilled you might be able to see if the rods have been cleaned up and maybe a small amount taken off the bottom for balancing cleaned up block casting inside new bearings would be good but i don't think you can tell without taking a cap off to look which i don't recommend at the moment but really besides capacity, balancing, new bearings and a small amount of lightening theres not much more you will see from a street bottom end, on race maybe stroker crank or aftermarket forged crank, better bearings, lightened knife edge crank, lighter aftermarket rods, arp bolts, dry sump, custom high compression forgies, high volume oil pump etc why don't you ask the guy who built it for the specs?

progressive and linear are the two different types.

rattle gun ftw on taking the nut off. also where are you getting new strut mount tops from? they arent an easy to find item i have found.

its a pretty big cam :) definately get new stronger springs, a much bigger lobe is more prone to problems at higher rpm. try performance springs they ship aus wide and have a large range of springs, see if you can find out the seat and nose spring pressure for the cam to find a suitable set of springs. also check and replace cam timing gear if needed and spend some time dialing it in properly :)

just on another note regarding buying a corolla, its much cheaper to spend a few hundred on a overrated car than it is to spend a few grand on a cheap car fixing all the problems. look at as many cars as you can for a month or so before deciding on buying one. saab... don't even go there. i had a 900 turbo for a few weeks and recouped most of the cost when i sold it, thank god and good riddance. if you don't intend on fixing cars and buying parts / going to wreckers / searching forums then buy the most reliable car that you can afford, especially if you have no tools. i mean if its a second car its not a problem but most people need a reliable car for work.

theres different temperatures for heat paints, maybe try get a higher rated one?

I'm guessing its the 4age silver ke25 you want to swap? theres no way i would swap that ke25 with 4age for the soarer with 7mgte! the soarer in standard condition $1000 poor - $10000 overrated (ie low km, clean, engine rebuild new suspension steering parts no rust etc) the soarer fairly modified $4000 - $14000 (low km, clean, engine conversion, aftermarket gear etc) but besides that even great soarers tend to have reliability problems and i can't recommend the 7mgte motor.

yeah sorry 350hp was an exaggeration, trying to show 250 at the wheels would need quite a bit more at the fly, so the engine output would need to be more than 250hp, a 30 to 50 hp loss is probably more realistic.

250hp at the wheels, thats could be like 350 at the fly... thats a lot of power.... 18psi is also a lot of boost too, as long as the engine is built to take that amount of boost it should be fine, and the turbo has to be able to put out 18psi in its efficiency range too. are you sure your drivetrain is going to hold up if you get 350hp at the fly? I'm sure more people can help you with specifics of the 4ag series of engines and their power capabilities but thats my initial thoughts anyway.