parrot

7 year old woke up at 5am - usually have to drag her out at 8am. Son told her to go back to bed - signs of approaching adolescence. So now whilst they watch iCarly dvd's ( I don't know what it is either ), play plants vs zombies and arrange the squinkies, I get a moments respite prior to the grandparents arriving and cooking lunch for everyone. So this is what the wife got me. What a woman! Perfect addition for the KE15! And means I should be able to find my way next time coffee cars and donuts is at Mt Dandenong.

Hi Benjamin, welcome to Rollaclub! Your English is a lot better then my Norwegian....... The only thing I didn't understand was canals. If the rust has gone through, your only option is to cut back to good metal and weld in a patch. It really depends on where this is as to whether you do that or replace the panel if that's feasible. The bonnet looks pretty bad, and I am guessing is worse on the inside of the panel. If I was you I would look for a replacement hood. One advantage of a white Corolla, it should be easy to find. A replacement will be easier and probably cheaper than trying to repair it.

I don't think so, but welcome to be corrected. I think the 2TG dizzy runs off the dummy shaft in the block.

It's a very long time (mid 1980's) since I had a 2T with twin webers, but I do recall having some problems which were manageable with mild filing. Of course it varies according to which manifold you haveand I have no idea what I had. One possibility, can you source or borrow a 2TG dizzy. I think they are longer? Don't purchase one on the strength of this post, but may be a solution if it is indeed longer. Edit: I have 2TG dizzy's (no 2T/3T) at home, so if no-one knowledgeable definitively shoots the idea down, I can give you some measurements tonight that may give you an idea.

No, it absorbs fuel vapours and as metioned is an important part of your vehicle emissions. If you get pulled over for a roadworthy check, it will lead to failure. There is absolutely no reason whatsoever not to have one. So pick one at random from your local wrecker and bolt it in.

Cold start injector only operates for a couple of seconds. Can you see an oxygen sensor in your exhaust? You can't miss it really if it is there. Reason I ask is that with an aftermarket exhaust, potentially it was removed.

Does it have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust?

If the slave is on the drivers side, you need a clutch slave from a TE72. The AE71/AE86 item at your local part shop won't work.

Presumably this is behind a 4A type block. 4AC mounts the clutch slave on the passenger side, 4AG mounts it on the drivers side which keeps it and the flexible clutch line away from the exhaust. If yours is on the drivers side, win! You just need to get a clutch hard line from a RA65 or any other Toyota pretty much that also has a hydraulic slave on the drivers side.

I would have thought if you can keep the thermos on, AND install the shroud, that would be your best bet? Clutch fan won't be doing much at lower engine speeds. Possibly you can lightly modify the shroud to fit around the thermo fans, or space it out a little with some quality high density foam to fill the gap.

Does it have a radiator shroud? They make a big difference

But not from a 20 valve, only 16 valve

Is it just me, or are those fish looking pretty nervous watching the birdcage?

I reckon it's factory too. Realistically, the simplest thing to do is to take the petrol filler flap off and get a paint shop to match to the colour on the inside. I recently did just that and the paint guys took two hours, but you will get the coulour you need.

I'll take one too if its OEM!

Mines a 2 pin Both those part numbers are possible 81980-20030 6611-6902 81980-20060 6902-7004 Description is amber/red

Hmm, I sense a challenge. No (at the moment), but this site is interesting And Koito are on facebook!

Or you can put paint into the search function....... http://www.rollaclub...__1#entry561759 Edit: It's actually only 8 threads down the list

Hmm, only takes one experience like that to kill a sellers reputation. I see he is on here occasionally, lets hope he sorts it out promptly.

Yep, injectors need a power source. Again, I think I linked you to the diagnosis manual previously which breaks down the circuits which makes it simpler to understand and replicate.

Years ago when the ST162 first came out, they invited all us lot from the Celica Car Club to come and view it. Very nice of them, but no one bought one back then. I'm very happy with the AE86 I have thanks.

Isn't that green KE10 the one that 'sold' on ebay a couple of weeks ago?

I remember when 4AGE's first came out, they were touted as a non rebuildable motor. Laughable now, but back in 1985, there were a few worried car club people around! Anyway, 16V are very easy. Only hard bit is the engine management if you exceed the limits of the factory ECU, which you don't need to do. 20V in a FWD configuration isn't hard to fit, but a bit of mucking about adapting looms to an earlier generation chassis. Don't underestimate how complex this is to get right.

Any RWD Corolla would be a good choice, but non mechanical parts are getting harder to find now, for anything older than a KE70. I would seriously look at an AE82 or AE93 with a 4AGE. The wreckers are full of AE82's and AE93's will supplant them soon enough. You can pick them up pretty cheaply, especially AE82's, and they go pretty quick and make the right noises. Everything is front wheel drive these days, so may as well get used to it.

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