oh what a nissan feeling!

Or maybe he drives like a grandma.

mmmmmmmmmm......gt3076R, if only i was rich and famous! :D

the largest T28 is off the gtir or s15, i think they even have .86 housings, i can't find the book now, so correct me if I'm wrong.

This is the my dyno graph from the weekend, the motor made 110hp without the turbo, now the turbo is on ive more than doubled my power. The graph is in kph, but it was revved to 7000rpm.

Fair enough, anything is possible, i don't think ive seen it done to a rola before though....

usually you would do some research, and find something that looks like fitting, or has been done before, rather than just picking a random car, and deciding you want its brakes. :D

well thanks for the advice tossa, ive already stated twice i don't expect it to live past the weekend. ;)

Of course they fail! If you give anything enough abuse it WILL fail. Ive just been lucky so far..... ;) If anyone comes to powercruise, come an say hello, my names matt. You may get a ride too if ya want, my mate is bringing his all alloy 600hp v8 vs, so i dare say he will free up seats in my car!!

I think i will go down friday night, maybe go in the burnouts that night, and stay till sunday (motor permitting). I have a heap of detailing to do between now and then!!!

That is a very cool idea ;) . I think the relay may last longer than you think. At work we put a fluro starter in series with 240v to a red light as a halfarsed flasher setup. It took well over 2years for the contacts to burnout, and the thing was on constantly. I recon the relay will live, its only 12volts!!!! :y:

Probably the wrong site for this, but anyway..... its in a rolla. Recently my car developed a miss in the top end, about 6500-7000rpm. The motor is a sr20de (non turbo)with a gt28rs mounted on it, and 11 pound of boost. These motors run 9.5:1 compression. Any way, the problem persisted, and slowly started to do it further down in the revvs. Meanwhile I'm still revving it to 7000rpm, and attempting to ignore the problem. :y: :y: Anyways,i went and saw my tuner yesterday, and apparently the motor was getting as lean as 16s on the gas anyliser (excessively lean!), so lean that it was missing in the top end, which to me combined with 9.5 comp, 7000rpm, and less than turbo friendly pistons, is a miracle, that it is still together. So far anyway. The problem turned out to be a dying fuel pump, and all is apples now.Igotta say though, that is one up for the sr20!!!!!! :y: I doubt it will survive POWERCRUISE this weekend, I just hope it waits till near the end, preferably the burnout comp. ;)

I'm unsure what the principle is called, but it is the one where you draw a line from your ball joints to the centre of the rear axel, your tie rod joint must sit exactly somewhere along this line. If you were to lengthen the front control arms, this central point would land way behind your diff and consequently, screw with your steering geometry. :D I asked my engineer about that idea and he was very quick to shut me down!!

Go the spring reset to lower the leaves, if you are building a diff it is also legal to build 50mm of lowering block into your diff mounts. :D To stop tramp. One good idea is what you said, to actually cut the ends off another top leaf and add it. Also remove the slipper pads from where your diff mounts to the spring, and solid mount it. Less rubber is better :D . Another one i did is to get a custom top leaf made so that you use the same rubber as at the rear eye, on the front, this was only $80, and when you look at the size of the front rubber, i was glad to say goodbye to it. The real trick though is to add an extra link to your rear end, from the existing front eye bolt to below the spring plate ...well kind of.This setup will give awesome traction and eliminate all tramp. I have no photos yet though, and will take some as soon as mine is reassembled. :D :D :D

Forget about the extend the control arm idea, it upsets your steering geometry.

So what youre saying is your car is slow, but you would prefer to sit here and pretend its fast :D

Whatever you do be sure to run an earth as well as an active the entire length of the car. yep.

Oil starvation only hey? Me thinks time to jump on the net and do some research hey! :) I'd explain it, but couldnt be bothered.

The adjustable actuator idea does actually work apparently. I first saw it on ebay, the real thing was like $160, so i just welded a couple of nuts together, and well, i havnt got the chance to test it yet, but hopefully it allows me to drop a bit more boost, as the factory setup was heavily tensioned. :D Ke30king i think if you search "sr20 ke30" you should find some stuff on my suspension, if there is anything in particular PM me. :)

Just thought i may as well post up what i been up to for the past month on the old rolla. Ive spent a few months thinking about revising my rear end, mostly because my current traction setup works awesome, but the front link hangs only 50mm off the ground. After considering four link, ladder bar, and a crapload of other setups, i decided on the simplest idea.i decided to lift the front leaf mount, to make the traction rods clear. ;) I have removed the old mounts, and have started making new plates that sit a 70mm higher off into the car. These are made of 3mm plate and 6mm plate, they are yet to be boxed and fully welded, but have lifted my tramp rods to sill height, which means they will be fully legal. so...objective accomplished. well...nearly anyway. I have also found some pintara adjustable rear control arms to make my new tramp rods out of that are fully adjustable. :P Ive also changed my wastegate to be adjustable, and polished my tappit cover. BRING ON QLD POWERCRUISE!

The needle simply pulls off. then you unbolt the face. two tiny screws on the face.

I gotta say though, something i don't miss about the old school worked motors is the way they idle (sidedraught webbered cars excluded). I used to have a worked 3t in my rola and, well everyone at the lights just stares, and go wtf. Not to mention if you pull up beside a tough V8, just because your car sounds as lumpy it doesnt mean it goes as hard. :lolcry: See noone realizes that a 240 duration cam in a big V8 never idles as rough as the same cam in a 4 pot. The 4 pot sounds like a drag car, while the big motor sounds mild. Webbers can do plenty to tune out the lumpy idle, but even with webbers no matter how long you spend doing the perfect tune, some times there is that tiny annoying dead spot you can't seem to get rid of, injection removes all of this hassel. :y:

I think weather someone should undertake an import conversion depends on their knowledge and ability to do work themselves, the cost can be kept down if someone has logical thinking ability, and the ability to weld. This is the cost of my sr20 conversion. motor and box $800, computer $1400, radiator $580, tailshaft $120, tuning $50. TOTAL: $3000 running. 110hp@wheels(big diff). I have been, and driven a few twin webbered, worked L20 motors and i agree that my car felt slower, and alot less exciting, but over the quarter, my car was actually quicker. Each one to their own i guess. I think the main advantage in the efi is the ability to go faster later if desired, a turbo is way more fun! :lolcry:

i don't know if you mentioned this but the inlet manifolds between twin and single cam are not interchangeable.

An o2 sensor is only required while tuning the vehicle. Factory vehicles use them to anylize the tune of motor because of changing climate conditions. What most people do is go to their tuning shop where the mechanic bolts a wideband o2 sensor onto the end of their exhaust (which has nothing to do with the wolf), and tunes the car on the road or dyno till it is spot on. He then removes his anylizer, charges you, and unless you further modify your car, or australia freezes over, your car will stay in perfect tune. You donot need to purchase an o2 sensor.