irokin

really? I recon the interior in my 1988 silvia is better than any 1988 toyota in the same market. I like to whore around. Its been a nice change going to nissan/datsun. Lots of extra things you learn. I really feel that being a brand snob is just niaeve

Reads to me like The Chinese maker plans to KILL at LEAST 1,000 people before July 2006.... Thats absolutely horrific. The whole car is just one big crumple zone. I hope it never makes it to Australia. True testament to "you pay for what you get" Hehe on a funny note... Driver during crash: "Zee airbags, zey do nothing!" (Simpsons reference)

Why are you asking us? Is it worth it to YOU

Say WHAT? You can't be serious.

eww its a blacktop lol... very cool car. Love it!!

I know for sure its not the cops Id be worried about.... Id be more worried if you smash into a bimmer/merc/whatever and your insurance company says "nope, not paying out, your car was illegally modified"....THEN your up shit creek

Ive got a Celica and a Silvia...they havent attacked eachother yet... I don't see the problem. Get over it. Id be more than happy to put a Toyota engine in my Nissan, and a Nissan engine in my Toyota. For that matter I wouldnt have a problem with a Mazda or Honda engine either... oh what a nissan feeling! touched on the reason why I bought a silvia. It wasnt so much because it was a Silvia, or a Nissan. The BIG attraction to me was AFTERMARKET PARTS. But not just the sheer amount, the ease of getting them, off the shelf. Call me lazy but I LOVE it.

ROFLCOPTER

Theres an AE86 in queensland (the home of rollaclub) with an SR20 conversion (or so Ive been told). Ive seen it out drift the 1000hp CAPA "Drift Ute". Goes to show, power isnt everything (eh Gaijin Doru)

Ive got CA18DE rotors and calipers (64,000km) if anyones interested :D

I'm a cheap bastard....thats probably why I'm single :hug:

GReddy T88-34D on an SR20 Comes on boost....no traction. Apparently its not so bad to drive off boost...(Big duration cams). Theres also a big dip in power as the turbo starts building boost (apparently common). but yes... GT30 is a bit big for a 4A. Even a GT2871R would be kinda laggy with a standard .86 exhaust housing. You can request it with a .64 exhaust housing, not sure how that would go (you might lose power up top). Maybe try a straight GT28R. I would put good money on the fact that you will make MORE power with a slightly smaller turbo at the same amount of boost.

Its been covered 4,000,000,000,000 times. Lots of guys run PULP and straight ULP no problems. I run Ultimate and Optimax but I havent decided which one I like more yet...they present very noticable differences to me in my celica. Ive killed one motor (2T) because we suspect combustion temperatures were too high for the rings (rings failed while just cruising on the highway). This current motor Ive been running some valve saver stuff to try and bring the combustion temperature down. It tends to knock a bit less when I run the valve stuff too even though I run 98RON in a 8.5:1 N/A hemi headed motor...go figure

Trust don't make baffled sumps for the CA18, neither do Tomei. Infact its hard to find bigger/baffled sumps for the CA18 :sad: I just think the 4A-GZE/GTE is just so over-rated. CA18 isnt much better :hug:

But 2 out of 3 rollaclub administrators are freaks.... :hug:

ROFL I said potato too!!!!

ROFL I wish I had the determination to do my engine swap in 3 days ...sucks to be lazy...

Only less piping compared to a front mount. They have advantages and disadvantages over air-air intercoolers. Plenty of info out there if your interested in it.

CA18. Heaps cheaper, lotsa spares to rape. I think you'll find the CA18 isnt bad durability wise (when theyre not spinning big end bearings...). I know of some CAs that are taken to 9,000rpm regularly. Unfortunatly not as many aftermarket parts as an SR20 but undoubtably more than the 4A-GZE.

Photoshop Ninja...

yes it needs to be earthed...usually just earths itself out on the engine block.

With diesels (and I'm not an expert) I would assume the turbo version only differs in the fact that its got a turbo strapped on the site. You don't need forgies to cope with possible detonation (because thats whats happening anyway) and you don't HAVE to upgrade injectors and the injector pump but they might not make as much power (and possible other problems may arise such as fuel pressure too low). Youd probably have change the injection timing and fiddle with the enrichment screw until you get it close to right. Id say you'll notice a huge power increase once you put the turbo on. If you can't find a 2C turbo (I think they came on 1950s willy's jeeps from what I can find but no doubt theyre on other things as well) Id go for maybe a CT12 off a 1GGTE (twin turbo). Theyre fairly small, would be good on a sub 1 litre petrol engine, so with a diesel engine double the capacity (2 litres) it should work fairly good (I think). Or maybe a Garrett GT12 if you wanted something that you could buy new. Rated at 120hp on petrol engines and costs around $650USD new.

did you earth the engine block in a couple of places?

Leaves plenty when the motors using a 10,500rpm rev limiter :D

For some reason i HAD to do this.....