LukeAE71

Finished it off tonight, put my recored radiator in, put in the tailshaft and took it for a spin around the block. It has no exhaust so it was freaking loud!!! I gave it a bit of gas and it goes alright. The neighbours probably hate me now. It's off to Exhaust Technology tomorrow to have extractors and a 2 inch exhaust fitted. Then drive time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EDITED out - just venting Work shits me so much at the moment

Parts: rebuilt 3k motor what has been done bored 60thou block faced welsh plugs where taken out so could be clean properly crank shaft polished cam polished acl bearings big and small end and cam shaft where replaced and new welsh plugs. mahle piston and rings new acl gasket kit. all the piston and conrods are all balanced. i put a bigport head and manifold on it head was merchined flat before i put it on has all new oil spark plugs and spark plug lead. - This is the extract from the ad for my motor by 'madmax7' who I bought it from. Motor should have a bit of stink!!

So my daily died in spectacular fashion late last week which means I need a new one. I decided it was quicker and easier to get this thing on the road - not to mention more exciting!!! Over the weekend I have done the following: - ripped out old 3K and Toyoglide - Installed new rebuilt 3K and 5 Speed - Installed pedal box, etc It runs, just waiting on my radiator to come back from being recored and then get my exhaust fixed and its rego time!!! Then a big wash and floss and probably just lower it with some whitewalls for the moment since it will be doing daily duties. I learnt a few things while doing the manual conversion which I always thought didn't work. 1. My starter motor from my auto 3K works on my manual box. 2. My auto tailshaft fitted straight up to the back of the K50 3. My auto crossmember bolted straight up to the KE70 gearbox mount with just needing to redrill the holes a bit further apart. Everything lined up on the body in the factory holes. 4. KE30 accelerator cable is a good fit with a bit of modification and works with the later carby. Thanks to Nickyboy and his Dad for helping me with the timing - turns out the dizzy was 180 degrees out. I'm excited

Hi all, I am 90% through changing my 20 to manual. In the shifter switch there was 4 wires, 2 red and 2 black. If I connect the 2 red together and the 2 black together the car will crank and start no problem. The only issue is that my reverse lights are permanently on. If I disconnect any of these combinations the car won't crank at all. If I connect red to black the car will crank with the key in the 'on' position which is not going to work. I tried searching but time is not of the essence at the moment!! Can anyone who has done this help?? Otherwise I will be disconnecting my globes in the reverse lights.....

I don't get it, she didn't actually ask you for any details.... or did I miss it? :rolls:

Fastest would be my CA18DET AE86 - 180rwkw in something that small and light. It was just stupid fast, zero traction in any gear unless you fed the power in slow. Came on boost at about 3K (bigger turbo) so it was lag lag lag lag WHEELSPIN!!. Undriveable in the wet. I sold it to someone who put an even bigger turbo on it and blew it up on his first drive :hmm: Apparently the first drive went something like burrrr pst, burrrrrrr pst, burrrrrrrrr bang rod out the side of the block!!

nice :hmm: :blush: :( :|

Sorry but that sounds like total crap. Get another opinion :hmm:

So..... progress has been very slow. Lots of things happening on the personal front so hasn't been much time for the old girl. I bought some TE27 flares and a fat front lip for her tonight!!!!! :hmm: I hope to have the car completed by All Japan Day 2011 - whatever date it is going to be :blush:

Did you use a toilet brush to wipe the skid from the bowl? :jamie:

This. :jamie:

I had a similar issue in my KE11. The flasher can wires just needed to be plugged back in properly (loose connection). Try that first see if it works.

My house is giving me the shits... I'm trying to get it ready to sell and everytime I fix one thing another thing breaks. It's trying to tell me something I'm sure of it :)

AE95 would not be same stud pattern for the SSR's. Sorry to burst your bubble

I have done this conversion myself. I simply loosened the demister ducting and then manouvred my socket with extension bar underneath it to get to the very top left bolt. I removed quite a few parts and was trying to remove the ducting completely but decided it was too hard and did it the way I just described. I get that you take care of your cars and so did I when I did mine. Doing it this way makes it possible, you don't have to mutilate your car and it is wayyyyy quicker than removing that heater core. When I remove pedal boxes from cars at wreckers I just smash the socket through the ducting :(

How did you make the KE70 front struts fit?? Much work involved??

Am I missing something too?? You do not need to remove the heater core to do a manual conversion :D

You would see this mustard one as often as I do too dude. Effin sweet car... the old dude always smirks when I stand outside my place in awe watching it go past. I should make up a sign which says do you want to sell and holf it up as he drives past?? I tried chasing him down one day but he didn't stop :D :D :laff:

I spent the best part of my youth racing electric off road radio controlled cars. Travelled all around Australia doing it too. I don't even want to think of how much money I spent This thread, and the fact I drive past the Littlehampton (on road) Track regularly, are giving me the hunger to buy one again. Off Road Racing has pretty much died in the arse though, on road is where it is at these days and nitro is way more popular than it ever was :P Philbey - Stadium Trucks are awesome. Have a browse on Youtube for Truck Racing at like a World Championship Level. The way those fellas make them handle and drive them that well is just amazing. Well I was always amazed by it anyway watching it at Nationals in Australia :D

Depends what you want.... The 16V being healthy should make around 80rwkw (maybe). The 20V might be lucky to make 90 rwkw. So really we are talking 10 rwkw for the sake of prob another $2000. You do need an aftermarket ECU to run the 20V so there is your biggest expense. You also have to consider that the 20V is different, revs different, sounds different, all that. There is nothing like the sound of 8000rpm with open quad throttles. Pure porn and well worth the money just for that :fuzz: I went for a 20V because there weren't so many jammed in 71's then as there appears to be now :?

There is either something wrong with that engine or the tune. Those people are right - you should be seeing more like 90 rwkw. My tired 20V was making over 90rwkw :dance:

As Ke70Dave said, loosen nut, wiggle wheel off. Do not completely remove the nut when you are wiggling, otherwise you will smack yourself in the face with the wheel due to the force. I have done the loosen and wiggle technique multiple times lately changing my steering wheel and it works fine. Why buy a tool for this when it is so simple ;)

I reckon the average Mr Plod on the side of the road would go by eyebrow heights too. Then again if you pull out the book etc and show him he will just end up sending you to Regency for being a smartass :( They don't like it when you know your stuff and quote it. I have been done for being prepared before :ninja:

That steering wheel is disgusting :( Certain things make a car... you have spent so much time and effort perfecting everything else don't let that steering wheel bring it down - which it will :ninja: