altezzaclub

Cheers mate- I'm impressed with the work you have done on that car. I wudda smacked her across the ear and said "Hey, learn to drive a real gearbox....." (which is what I did at the start with my daughter! Now she's very proud she can double clutch down or do clutchless changes while left-foot braking..)

The 2TC will blitz a 4K anytime. Its 1600cc compared to 1300, cross-flow head compared to same-side manifolds, it has a hemispherical combustion chamber I assume, compared to a bathtub, and the race versions made 180bhp, while no-one who was sane ever raced a 4K! We would all love for KEs to have come out with T motors instead of Ks! The K is definately 1950s technology, the T is 1970s.

lol! Go for it! Make sure it is either rego'd now or you have a good idea of what needs doing. look at the crazy prices asked on here, that's a bargain!

Sounds like he drilled it off center, so if you use a tap it will be an oval, not a circle. Ideally, toss it away as madKE says & get another block, but if your rings & bearings are really good you could try using it again. Which stud was it?? ..and you can check the head with a steel ruler and a set of feeler gauges, or have a head shop look at it. If it lost water after it overheated there is a good chance the head is warped, but it could be a leaking pump or other things. The head wouldn't warp by itself, there is usually another reason why it loses water and the over-heating warps the head.

Turn the box by hand in each gear and see if it makes a funny sound. I doubt if it has stripped teeth. So, it will be interesting to see if this solves the problem. I figured it would let the input shaft and the clutch plate wave around in the breeze a bit, so it wouldn't line up with the pressure plate as you let the clutch out, and cause it to shudder. Anyway, make sure the clutch plate is lined up perfectly with the spigot bearing, as now the error in putting the box on the motor is only 1mm or so. A fraction off center with the clutch plate and the gearbox won't want to go on the last 20mm. I've had some titanic struggles over the years...

That doesn't souund right- You should cut the wire from the "start" position on the key to the starter wire somewhere along it's length, fit a pair of terminals or solder two wires to that. The wires go to the selector lever and plug into the two black wires. That means no power from the starter part of the key gets to the starter motor unless the selector switch lets it through. The green you can ignore, it should become live when the headlights are on. You should have a pair of wires for the reverse lights already there, they plug into the red plug. Mine was different there, the auto had the plug on the selector, the manual had it under the bonnet, but it was the same idea. Power goes in to the selector switch, power flows when in reverse, power goes out to the reverse lights.

On the Ke70 its pretty similar, the black ones carry the ignition, red the reverse lights, green the gearlever light. Check that the lever works mechanically and cuts the connection between the two B/W wires. What I found is in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/page__pid__590801#entry590801

A $7 bearng goes in the end of the crankshaft. Autos don't have them, but manuals need them to hold the nose of the gearbox input shaft. Otherwise I would expect the clutch to shudder and bunnyhop for a short while until the gearbox input bearing fails, but I'm not sure. One day someone will forget it... The electronic dizzy out of the 5K is a good buy, but it has a lousy advance curve as it is an industrial unit for forklifts. So if you want the car to go like it does now, but be more reliable, you have to change the springs inside the dizzy. Read through The Girl's KE70 build sometime, its all in there.

I'm with most, using a screw clamp just like that right-hand photo. I've put a spacer in there too just to get the pedal at the right height. What actually happens is that the alloy walls of the grooves snap off, so the circlip can't grip. I've used two circlips in the past, with a spacer between, so at least one gets a good groove to lock into. I also hang it from the roof and fill it with engine oil when I have it out. I'm quite happy with a cable, its not worth the trouble to change to hydraulic.

Did you fit a spigot bearing? I'm dying to find out what happens when someone omits that... Have you got a timing light?? If not, they are a good tool to have, along with a dwell meter if you plan on sticking to mechanical points rather than changing to electronic. Maybe too much advance would make it bunnyhop like that, although you should hear it pinking if that is so. If it is only on booting it, you might check the operation of the pump jet on the carb. Easy enough, just look down the throat. That can kill acceleration and misfire it from being too lean, but is OK if you accelerate slowly. The backfire part suggests carb or dizzy.

Hopefully, but I'll let Steve answer that.. with reference to- and and Ah, I love putting the pressure on!

lol- Two minutes... but I cheated, I already have it so I knew its name, http://www.ae82.net/archive/index.php/t-461.html

...then it must just be the torque of the mighty 4K that is causing the clutches inside to slip! ..or there might still be air pockets in the system from when it was empty. The torque converters self-prime once the box is filled with oil it seems, and they don't give slipping problems. Let us know what the solution is when you've sorted it.

OK, so that wasn't happening with the 3K. Any coolant, or none, will do as far as I know. The only differences in the coolants are to do with alloy blocks, its a chemical thing. Until you get to 100deg you don't need coolant at all, it will just raise the boiling point slightly. So it sounds like the second rad is damaged rather than blocked. That is a box problem, but I don't know enough about autos to tell you if it is torque converter related or in the bands. I assume the torque converter has filled up completely like it should, it probably emptied itself all over your garage floor in the conversion. How does the air get out on one? Was the box working perfectly behind the 3K??

Ah- So you are halfway there! I don't know if the 4K extractors bolt straight on, I ahven't handled a 7K. They probably do although you're motor may be slightly longer and wider, and an exhaust shop should know. If you have the bucks, run it 2" all the way through. If you're going to pull the motor out for the clutch and head work, then that is the time for a cam. Check that the 4K grinds they cut will suit the longer stroke of the 7K, certanly its no use chasing a cam that revs its head off. Maybe go for maximum lift & fast opening rather than long duration With the motor out and the head off you can clean out the water jackets, unless its been on anti-freeze all its life. That is also the time to get the flywheel lightened. The problem with balancing is that they need the pistons, crank and clutch setup all together, so if you want to balance it you have to drop the pistons out. Maybe its time for a hone and new rings anyway. I don't know what the 7K porting is like, all you can easily do is make sure the ports match the Weber inlet manifold and skim 15thou off for a bit more compression. Its the same as the cam, there is no use chasing massive air flow in a 7K if the long stroke stops it revving. Basically I did the same mild mods in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

The idle gets slower as the points wear and the timing gets retarded. However if you just add a little idle speed it idles fine even when the ignition is retarded. Not in this case if it is around 9deg. Did you block the vac advance line when you were sorting the emission hoses? Not a big deal, it shouldn't affect acceleration. If you're not losing water then it looks like the overheating is a radiator problem and the lack of go is slippage in the gearbox. Did this radiator you are using run cool with the 3K??? or is this the rad that was in the 3K when it died?

Just Google it- There are about six cam cutting companies, deal with them directly. I used Crow. I think I have a list in the build thread in my signature. There's one extractor manufacturer, they come from any exhaust shop. Carbs you will have to chase yourself. Second-hand for most, the SUs and downdraught Weber, but if you're rich you can by new DCOE Webers. The inlet manifolds are a bottle-neck, there are no new SU manifolds being made. I don't know if there are Weber DCOEs still coming out of some factory, ( that is more likely) but most people use the stock manifold and the 32/36 Weber with an adapter plate. Any engineering shop will lighten the flywheel and the crank if you want that done too. Certainly get it all balanced when you have it apart. There are still new electronic distributors on the market, but usually through specialist parts people rather than retail.

Convert to manual, upgrade cam, carb & exhaust, fit 14" rims... just follow all the stuff I did on mine- its not super-quick, but it holds 100kph up hills and is cheap to run. Get any K50 box, but the tailshaft housing has to be a short one if you want the gear lever in the same hole. I'm sure the KE70 box has a longer rear end. You can do it yourself, its not a hard conversion. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Do this, although I wouldn't change the housing unless it is leaking, just pull the rad and thermostat out & sort them out. The rad you tip upside down and flush with a garden hose on full blast, or take it to a rad shop for checking. The thermostat you put in a pot on the stove and use a thermometer to see what temp it opens up at. The correct temp is written on it. Check for a leaking headgasket by taking off the radiator cap before you start it one day, fill the rad up to overflowing, then start it and let it idle for a few minutes. You can stick you finger in the water and see when it suddenly warms up, that is when the thermostat opens. If bubbles come up and push the water out of the rad then the headgasket is leaking. It usually happens before the thermostat opens as the compression has to go 'backwards' through the hoses and come up through the rad, pushing the water out. If the radiator, the thermostat and the head gasket are all fine you are only left with the water pump as a problem.

I assume you bought an auto rad. Go have it checked by a radiator shop, they can tell you what is wrong and how much to fix it. Check the igntion timing also. If it is retarded it will kill performance and adds to the overheating. Mind you, ours was auto when we bought it and it was hopeless going up hills. The manual conversion made a huge difference.

It certinaly stiffens panels up, but I don't know which are water repellent and which aren't. I used to use the 2-pot mix, which set off chemically with one bottle of hardner and one bottle of resin joined at the gun, but these one-shot aerosols might be quite different in water properties. Its great for forming 3D shapes, such as ribs under a f'glass bonnet or guard. Ooze it into a channel of cardboard then glass over it again.

Had a dyno run with a fuel/air curve?? Can you get hold of a fuel mixture display?? Without knowing where its lean and where its rich you could do the wrong thing completely.

Nice work- you make it seem so easy... but I'm sure there is a lot of problem-solving in there beforehand.

oohh nice! Welcome in! How do you get the car so high for those stands? I'd love a 1ton jack that lifted a good meter high in one hit. ..and some details on that sump??

What did the tech say about them?? They should be spotlessly clean if the filter is good, they work in a clean environment in the inlet system, not like diesel injectors. I can imagine they would block up if shit came down the line. He would notice that. Have you pulled the fuel rail connection off and measure the flow rate? Even just to see that it pours out everywhere.

haha! Not long enough Philbey. 5weeks I think, a week to strip, a week with the tank fitting and welding, and three weeks solid for everything else before the rally. Steve can be the welder, he's got much better over the time and it will stand him in good stead for the next 40years. The 'new' wire feed welding is certainly much neater, easier, and doesn't deform the rest of the metal around it. If you make a mistake you just grab a grinder and start over. So many toys are much better than in the 1970s..... rachet-ring spanners, cheap hoists, MIG and TIG, 18volt battery drills, engine stands...