altezzaclub

As I understand it..... Having only owned one turbo car and I never touched the motor in that! Vac and mechanical systems give advance at totally different times. Vac gives advance when the inlet manifold has high vacuum, which is when the throttle is closed, especially on over-run and also on low-throttle cruise. That's because the flame front needs more time to burn the very thin mixture in the cylinder at those times. Ported vac is the same as manifold vac except at idle when the port is covered. Idle vac is zero for the ported system, and at it maximum for manifold vac systems. Its all about emission control, not performance. When you accelerate to overtake someone at 100kph the vac advance drops to zero and retards the ignition back to the mechanical level. The real advance for performance comes from the weights. The mechanical advance starts off a few degrees before TDC to give a smooth idle, then advances more and more up to 36deg or so as the revs rise, to give the flamefront more time to burn in an ever-decreasing cylinder filling cycle. The flame burns at a constant rate, but the compression stroke gets shorter and shorter in time, so you need to start the flame earlier at higher revs. I suppose all you're really worried about is firing the spark plug too early into a high-compression fuel mixture so it burns too fast. That should only happen in the mid-range on light throttle when you'd normally need plenty of advance but with the S/C you don't. Pre-igniition detonation has nothing to do with spark plugs, its when the motor compression fires like a diesel without using the spark plugs at all. I think that's what kills most turbo & S/C motors. That just depends on how hot the motor is and how much boost it has. Map the ignition over the whole rev range and see what you're getting. It will be interesting to compare to what I found.

Electronic dizzys still use the ballast if they're using the low-voltage coil. Its depends on the coil, not the dizzy I left it in mine.

Get a couple of Kg machined off it before you fit it- All helps..

Lol! Gold!!

Wrong or broken oil filter. Exactly what mine was like when I bought it, there was no anti-backflow valve in it and the oil drained out each night. When I started it the oil took 10seconds to fill the filter and the bearings rattled for that time. The bearings were OK when I stripped them out later, but did have some scour marks. So go grab a Toyota filter & use nothing else.

Good man! Some solid info- So, you can retard the timing 8deg millaz, so it peaks at 28deg, or do something tricky to the slots in the plate that set max advance, like glue a stop in there. If you shorten the slots then you can run the idle timing as stock. I assume its the same dizzy that I'm using. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594

Is the switch you refer to the slowdown dashpot thing that controls the rate it drops onto idle? On the front of the carb. I took the adjustable stop out of mine so it did nothing, just looked like it worked, and it idled straight onto the idle screw. Have you adjusted the idle mixture screw?? You may solve it all by richening it up a whisker. xris is right, any leaks would make it too lean at idle. Are any of those vac hoses split or cracked?

...and it WILL cost $10grand, which you will never get back when you sell it! So you have to be absolutely dedicated to the idea of a super-fast Rolla and be happy that every kilometre you drive has just cost you an extra dollar. If you own it for 20,000km then each Km only costs you 50c extra!

That's probably a good idea- Vac advance does advance faster, but obvously only on high inlet vacuum, or throttle off. So you get high advance on over-run, small throttle cruise and idle (if its inlet vac and not ported vac) Mechanical advance is pretty well straight with the revs, so you should pick the max advacne you want and set it to that at 3 or 4 thousand rpm, then use the idle speed to sort out the idle. Will superchargers run 36deg max advance?

...and I wonder if the brake booster is leaking air in and making it too lean to idle!

Sounds like it- Does it depend on how hard you stop, or if you just drift up slowly to the lights? Carb... air leak.... idle circuit? If it has a "deceleration slow dashpot" I'd be suspicous of that straight away. It helps emissions by controlling the speed that you can shut the throttle at.

What's the air-intake grill arrangement under the windscreen?? They draw air in there for the vent system, but that bathtub must drain somewhere and the Datsuns used to take a rubber tube in the car and out again. Old rubber tube gets cracked and leaks onto the floor. Hopefully they have better ideas now.

Good start! Drive it for a week or two & solve any initial problems, then have it checked on a dyno for mixture and see how the jetting is. Do some acceleration times when you're driving around before you fit it and afterwards to compare. Some nice long hill that really makes the stock carb work hard from 20kph upwards.

Easy enough to drop a handful of degrees off the timing and see if its any different. Timing chain adjustment is automatic, so when its jumping out wide enough to touch the cover it is really really stretched and rooted, so replacement time. If you can hear it when idling, can you put a timing light on and match it to a cylinder's TDC? Find out if its #1 or #3 or whichever.

Soo... where do you lock it?? 8deg so it idles but doesn't rev? 15deg so it has a bit much advance for idling but has a good mid-range. 30deg? Hopeless at idle, much too advanced, but at least it runs up to 5000rpm because it has time to burn the mixture before the valves open. There's a lot to be said for the bright idea of ignition advance weights... I think you're up for a knock sensor, a big dyno run and a re-graph. Then it will fly!

Pictures- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493&hl=

Well, there will be, but really you should pop in a better cam and a set of extractors with a free-flow exhaust to make the most of it. Getting it jetted just right is the important part, or it will have flat spots and chew juice for no power.

Nope-

If it is like a KE70 or a Landcruiser then it earths the lights back through the dipswitch, an abysmal idea that leads to pathetic lights! You need to fit a relay that switches power from the battery straight to the headlight bulbs and back through a seconds relay. Not hard to do, I did a mate's Landcruiser last weekend. third post down- http://www.rollaclub...__1#entry445727

Arrgh! Worst sort of problem you can have! Just spend the hours going over all the wiring.. A test light on two clips would be good so you can put power down some wire you've pulled off an have the bulb light up, then fiddle & twist the loomb to see if it goes out. All the electrics in the steering column will need going over too, as the headlight problem might be in the earthing switch. Big steamclean before you start would help too I'm sure!

Just die instantly did it? No missfires or jerks? Something killed power to the coil completely..? I've had that where a wire to the coil broke, so sometimes it would open the break up and the car would die instantly, then by the time it had stopped the wire had moved a fraction and carried power again. That took a bit of finding. Did the instruments die?? Charge light come on?? Because if the key socket died it would take the instruments out as well, but a coil wire breaking wouldn't.

beetle- check the tappets, that could solve your problem if your lucky. Watch under the bonnet as someone works the choke and see how well it works. You can check the accelerator pump too by looking down the carb & opening the throttle. You should see petrol squirt down the throat instantly. Sounds like its not working properly and giving that little flat spot when you accelerate. The leads you can swap with someone else's or just replace. Look for cracks in the dizzy top, black little lines running from the terminals. Wipe the dizzy cap & rotor clean & spray them with CRC or WD40 to stop them shorting out. Coil top also, clean & spray too. Electrical leaks show up at night under a dark bonnet and you can see sparks jumping around. Take the bonnet off and drive it around the block one night! jackson- try the hot dog. Chop out a length of pipe and clamp/weld it in. The auto chokes are a pain, might need a strip & clean and lube, and watch it as the car warms up.

A resonator is the straight-through hot-dog muffler that sits in the exhaust pipe under the passenger's floor. They stop it popping on over-run. Is the choke connected? If not, that is probably your cold running problem. The rotor takes the power from the dizzy's central lead out to each plug lead as it spins. Its the security system that you remove when going to the movies and you've parked in a dodgy area. Usually its pretty trouble-free. Rich means it runs cool, lean makes it run hot. Sounds like it really needs a good going over, carb and electrics.

Obviously I kept the green lines, the distributor vacuum and the charcoal cylinder, and blocked the red ones. That's why they are coloured like that. Then keep the brake booster and PCV steup on the tappet cover as suggested.

Mine ticks & it sounds like a tappet, but I've been over them quite a few times and its not a clearance problem. Maybe a chip off a rocker, or a valve, maybe fuel pump, maybe follower, maybe rocker shaft maybe just a 4K... Over-run backfires.. does it have a resonator under the passenger's seat?