altezzaclub

I like the idea, the components are easy to get hold of and it transmits far enough. You could have the light turn on a coil attached to the body, so 20,000volts go to earth through anyone touching the car. If you get desperate...

X2... I like that idea- lots of yellow with tints...

If it shorted out when you touched battery +ve to coil +ve, then either the coil is blown and earthing out, or the power went all the way to the distributor and earthed out through the points just like it should.

If it a nice body its worth doing the motor up. Rings and bearings OK?? So a head gasket set and re-cut of valves and seats would freshen it up. Any sign of an 18RG for sale.... that would make a difference... :laff:

Burnt valve?? Has most effect at idle as the air has time to leak past, and at higher revs you don't notice it. Done a compression test?? Could be head gasket I suppose, same thing- most noticeable at idle.

The brand of plugs won't stop it starting, they will all spark OK. Take a plug out, or use an old plug, attach it to a lead and lay it on the head and crank it over. Can you see a spark?? If you have done that and seen a spark then the plugs are working fine, and either the spark is at the wrong time or there is no petrol getting there... Do you reckon you have the leads in the right order and the timing is still OK??

Get the laxatives that look like a chocolate bar and put them in a Cadbury wrapper... Just remember not to eat them when desperate! ;)

Either you got a bit excited at the time and flooded it, or the timing is wrong, or the leads are in the wrong place... Check lead position- note which way the dizzy spins, look down the oil cap or take off the tappet cover and turn the pulley until the timing mark hits 10deg. Make sure the rotor points to 1 or 4, whichever is the correct cylinder firing at that time (by looking at the tappets) Then make sure that the rotating rotor will point to number 3 after number one, then 4 then 2. If the dizzy is at all loose just make sure the timing is right, firing around 10deg. If you do have spark as you say then the problem is somewhere else, like flooding.

Here's what it came out of- http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=33583 1978 Alfa Romeo Alfetta GTV 2000 Wheelbase 2413 mm Track front 1359 mm rear 1367 mm Length 4153 mm Width 1664 mm Height 1334 mm Kerb weight 1080 kg

You are right ol'fella!! Mate had one in South Afica, and I had an Alfa Guilia. (biggest POS ever and I'd never own another Alfa even if it was free!!) That system is also used on the Porsche 924/944 series to get the 50/50 weight distribution and lovely neutral handling they have. We put an Alfa 5speed into the Datsun rally car as the ratios were great. It needed an adapter plate made for the bell housing and a custom mount, but fitted OK. The gearchange was heavy and clunky, the opposite of the KE70 or Mk 2 Cortina feel. An Alfetta is probably slightly bigger than a KE70, but it would be a great conversion. You would get inboard rear discs and independent rear suspension. Otherwise you should be able to fit a 5speed onto the back of the Alfetta with a plate.

Rollas are nice because they make you look poor... Its no good turning up to meet tenants in a flash car, they think you're making too much money and get a bit shitty. Same with buying stuff at some businesses, it pays not to rock up in a Lexus if you want a discount. Panelbeater mate of mine won $800,000 in Lotto in NZ and went to BMW in his usual clothes. They ignored him, then treated him like shit and then wanted to know if he had a deposit and a credit history. He asked for the boss, got him to phone the bank and had the bank manager tell Mr BMW what his balance was... then he walked out and bought a Jag, where the people were very nice! ;)

I wuz painting cars at a spraypainters in Canberra in 1978... no apprenticeship, just rock up and show what you can do. Worked for a few months then hitchhiked up to Darwin and back. Forgotten about all that. Them wuz the days... ;)

Throw the stupid locker out and get something that was designed to work with the KE70 suspension. A stiffer sway will pick up the inside wheel more easily, but only at speeds where you have sufficient body roll to lift it up. So if you're going fast enough and turn sharply enough you should be able to go from terminal understeer to terminal oversteer in an instant. Nothing will make a welded diff smoother at slow speeds except---- A) Skinner tyres, so they are easier to scrub to bits. THAT's what a locker will do... scrub your tyres out when you turn. So the skinnier the better, say 125x13 at about 60psi. B) Keep using it- it will soon enough snap an axle and then the car will turn smoothly. C) A really high centre of gravity that allows massive body roll at carpark speeds so it picks up the inside wheel. It would pay to throw the springs out completely and run a rigid suspension to get a wheel to lift easily, or fit a gigantic rear sway bar that is stiffer than the springs and will easily pick up the inside wheel as the 300kg weight on the roof rolls the body. D) A diesel squirter fitted to the steering so it squirts oil on the inside wheel as you turn. Plans are on here somewhere, using windscreen washer motors as I remember. E) Throw out the Monroes and get shocks that have non-existant bump and incredible stiff rebound. That will allow the outside to sink easily and the inside to refuse to lift off the diff, so will promote one-wheeling too. I saw that thread about school holidays too....

Those are twin side-draught carbs, Dellortos I think, so.... You are right, there would be no room for air filters under your bonnet. You might get a few bhp, but you would probably use half as much fuel again. ..and if you want trumpets then indivdual throttle bodies fitted to your engine would be the way to do it. I'm not sure what manifold you would need, but if Harry is right then 20v is the way to go. You'll also get an amazing induction noise coming in through the dashboard!! :D

They came up well, especially the last one... I think the middle car is for sale on here somewhere isn't it?

:D Show us the result!!!!

Have a think about the carby you would use, so you can sort out inlet manifold to head port matching. I had to port out the stock 4K to match the Lynx manifold for the twin SUs. If you have it all apart you will find it easier to assemble with the motor out anyway... and if you're putting on extractors and a carb you will need a cam grind to really make them work.... and so the list goes on! Were the rings and bearings fine before the head gasket went?? or is it worth new bearings and a hone while you have it apart? Have a skim thrught other people's builds for ideas and problems. What I did is all in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=42407

lol! I just added that to make the idle 14.7... Any random factor would do. We can't compare the actual numbers unless we synchronise the two meters somehow, but we can compare the way they change. Next time I'm in Melbourne....

Oh- I'm gettting about 10L/100km around town, and 7.4 on a trip. Worse than stock, or using the 'lean' needles, but a lot quicker to drive! :rolls: Strip the carby and check everything again! I've loaned mine ('83 KE70 w antipollution stuff on) out to Rob for his KE55 and he reckons its much slower than the old mechanical 2nd throat he had. There's obviously a lot more wrinkles in the stock carbs than we expect! ..and that's got to be a worry! You can set the richness on mine using the choke... we did it on the trip to Melbourne with the lean needles in!

Just for arguments sake... Compared to my SUs. What does it show at idle? 9.5 +5.2 = 14.7 I set mine to 14.7 dipping into 16 & back. What does it show at a constant 60kph? 10.1 + 5.2 = 15.3 Between 14 and 15 for me. What does it show if you left off a fraction? 9.8 + 5.2 = 15.0 Leans off to 15-16 or so What does it show when you lift right off and are on over-run? 8.5 + 5.2 = 13.7 Flicks rich, then leans out to 17 or 18 What does it show if you ease the throttle on? 10.1 + 5.2 = 15.3 Goes rich a little 13 or so. bang on the throttle = goes down to 8.5 + 5.2 = 13.7 Goes rich! 11 or 12... then back up to 10.5 + 5.2 = 15.7 Back to 13 if I'm still accelerating. So even if it was a matter of calibration, yours hardly moves compared to mine. We've got the same Jaycar meter, but I suppose the O2 sensors are different. Mine are VT Commodore narrowband 4wire ones. If its the stock Aisin carb it should be about right for the car, unless the cam really upsets it. What happens if you move the FMD calibration up 5 points?? I'm going to get mine run against a garage's to see if the calibration is about right. The guy who checked the SU needles on a dyno said the were just fine right through the range, which is OK but a bit vague..

The difference is that the lowered springs are stiffer, they are designed not to let you hit the bump stops with your reduced clearance. However they also have to allow you to load the car to its max 5people plus luggage and still be safe, so there is a lot of safety margin in there if you are using cut springs and never load the car. I don't know how much you can cut off stock sprngs without a problem, but some guys on here have gone pretty crazy with them. You can probably find the spring rates of stock springs and lowered springs with a bit of work, you'll just have to cut your own springs and measure the rates yourself....

..so just swap the rear gearbox housing from your KE70 onto the KE20 gearbox.

That height is great for the moment- wait until you've sorted rims & car seats and see what it rides like... depends how much you like your kidneys & your lower spine. i've never had a problem with cutting springs, but I've never run cars as low as I see on here. They obviously get a little stiffer as they get shorter, but they will never be anywhere near stiff enough to stop you hitting the bump stops if you cut too much off. Once you hit the bump stops the tyres just let go, instantly! The cops have the problem of idiots cutting so much off they are not held at full drop and fall out in a yump so they lose control when the car lands. At the same time the shocks bottom out over bumps and smash the foot valves to pieces. Not to mention that lowering a car upsets all the wheel alignments, even the angles that most people on here know nothing about, so you get weird bump steer at high speeds and rip the treads off tyres in no time flat. The more you lower it the worse those problems become, and some are not recoverable in adjustments. I do, of course, drive on cut springs every day! :rolls:

Yeah! Raise it a little and maybe just a little torque-busting supercharger on it for low-down grunt! I had a 1.8L 4WD Nissan Pulsar wagon as my last company runabout in NZ- brilliant car!! Go anywhere and really stable in the wet. I do wonder about putting Tercel's vital bits into a KE70....

Surprisingly, I disagree with Trev!! :rolls: Playing with the mixtures will upset the idle, but when you boot it you should be running on the main jet and the pump jet, then into the secondary throat. Now that I'm a confirmed O2 sensor/FMD addict, I suggest you get a mixture reader and watch it when you're driving. That will tell you if it is leaning out or flooding when you boot it. It will also tell you if the jets are working in the right range for that cam and motor. If you're lucky the carb top will come off without destroying the gasket, but I don't know what the settings are for that Weber's float level, I've only used DCOEs. You usually hold the top of the carb upside down and measure the gap between the top and the float as it sits on the needle valve. Someone on here will know. Well done with the throttle arm clearance- that's half the problems solved! and so long as you can see the pump jets working you can assume they are not the problem.