altezzaclub

Could be a few things- what wiring diagrams have you got? Bigport or smallport?? There are two ignition setups on the 4AGEs, VAST and something else I've forgotten. Everyone wires their car individually, but I used a Diahatsu COR relay box- So I used the stock B/O wire that goes to the passenger side for ignition, but ran a relay off it and that powered the coil. There's another wire in the chassis loom there to take the tacho reading back to the dash. and I used these pinouts on my Bigport- IGF and IGt are the igniter wires. Here's a diagram I used a lot, but none of this can be relied on unless you really know what engine you have and what the diagrams actually reference to. On top of that these engines are really old now and everyone has had a play with changing the wiring, so the colours can't be relied on either! I'm just as bad, I'd hate to buy my car and try to trace wiring! See what you can trace and let us know.

I'm not that keen to pull mine out to photograph it, but as I remember it the plugs in there are carefully shaped to only go in one place. Some plugs are not used at all and just hang there. "I can hear my fuel pump going but no starter click or crank at all - definitely not a dead starter. " That circuit is purely KE70 chassis, so it should be as it was with the 4K. One wire from the key to the solenoid. Was it an auto KE70 that you put a 4AGE into? That's the most likely issue, the 'neutral position' cutout on the tunnel must be bridged.

Sigh... 2009 he posted that, 15years ago.. Do you still own the car you had 15years ago? If you hover your mouse over his name it tells you he last visited in August 2009, so I don't think he'll see your post. Start a new topic Mathewg, let us know what happened to leave you in the predicament you are in & we will try to help.

Yeah, I looked at adapting FWD Corolla struts a few years back, it would be great for a wide track and control of camber. Unfortunately nearly all the FWD cars went to a 100mm PCD so the wheels would all have to be changed as well. The struts would have bigger (and ventilated) discs. They would need longer lower control arms too. A nice idea, but not worth the trouble. Using a FWD strut wouldn't gain much, the springs are usually larger in diameter then our style and wouldn't fit in the tower. The FWDs are nose-heavy so the springs would be stronger too. Its likely the springs, being larger in diameter, would be shorter than ours, so you would weld a long FWD strut tube onto a KE70 tube and then a FWD shock absorber would be too short. It would take a lot of research, I haven't heard of anyone doing it.

I've been researching this for a couple of months, I'm doing the same project over the rest of the year, and I'm looking at BCRacing coilovers with Manon racing brakes. BCR make a coilover tube with adjustable shock and ride height, and camber tops if wanted. They sell two style of bottom cup for welding onto your own strut, a KE70 one at 48mm and a AE86 one at 51mm. I'm happy to go with the KE70 one, there is no gain in the AE86 one and I'd have to get AE86 hubs. I'm buying the V1-VA set, more road use and lighter springs than their semi-race BR-BA version, and I'm negotiating lighter springs than their 6-4kg/mm as AE86 and KE70 are less than 2kg/mm stock. Another option would be find a complete strut off a Corona XT130, something we've done in the past, you get 52mm strut tubes and big, but non-vented, brakes. You'll still need to buy an adjustable shock and weld-on coil-over thread kit, but just the threaded tube with spring base and top. I was going to do this but the 'Rona struts are hard to find and its all very heavy. Other companies that have weld-on kits include- Titan suspension, PSR suspension, Godspeed Max, Emotion Racing Taiwan, and Group D in Ireland. Any company that didn't list spring rates I figured was crap, and anything from overseas means Customs Duty/Excise tax & postage on top. BCR seemed the best overall. Manon Racing have been easy to talk with for brakes, they offer a 13" wheel kit using Wilwood Dynalite calipers and vented disc, or 14" kits using WIlwood Dynapro calipers and disc. This setup gives you an adjustable shock and bigger brakes while using your stock hub and steering arms. You can buy the whole AE86 setup from FLOS in Ireland if you're keen, coilovers, strut tubes, hubs, brakes, rotors and steering arms. I'm budgeting on $1500 each, so $3k for coil-overs and brakes. You can easily spend $4k on coilovers alone.

Where abouts are you? See if anyone close to you has one, if not I can always see if the wrecker still has a motor down there.

Everything is the same except the K50 has an extra gear in the rear part of the gearbox. So the clutch will be the same, & most of the gearbox the same too.

You can see the pickup here, the vertical strip of metal in the plastic electronics unit. It triggers as the apex of the rotor goes past.

Not so much the coilovers as the adjustable shocks. I put new Monroes in the front a decade back and they felt absolutely no different to the leaky ones I took out. Now 3 of the 4 on the car are seeping oil, so its shock time again. I thought the range was larger once you got out of the KE70 48mm diameter strut and into the bigger series that Toyota made in 51mm. However last night I found a suggestion that the shocks are the same in BCR, so they use a shock that fits 48 and 51. Brakes.. obviously better on the XT130 with rotors at 266mm compared to the KE70s 218mm, but I'm already using those L601 Move brakes that are 234mm, the same as an AE86. The XT130 setup is very cheap compared to new AE86 hubs, brakes and steering arms. Right now I'm leaning towards keeping it KE70 with a BCR KE70 weld-on kit and a Manon Racing brake kit from NZ. Either a Wilwood Dynalite kit for 13" wheels or their Dynapro kit for 14" wheels. I buy things very slowly with lots of researching, so it may change yet. What have you found?

After I get the Girls KE70 going with its new Haltech, I'm thinking of doing up the suspension. Nothing for racing or lowering it, just better than stock for country driving. All four corners, probably stick with stock style in the rear and coilovers in the front. There are three options for full kits- Coilovers from BCRacing at 48mm, they weld onto the KE70 strut foot. Four adjustable shocks. Coilovers from BCRacing that are 51mm diameter, so AE86 or XT130/RA40 or RA60. Full spindle coilovers from BCRacing that still need hubs and bearings, rotors, calipers, and steering arms. The first is the cheapest, but limited in shocks for it and runs KE70 brakes. If I have to I'll do it and see if the lower unsprung weight makes up for some losses. Under $2k The second needs the complete struts from Coronas or Celicas, adds unsprung weight and means moving to 14" wheels. But bigger shocks and bigger brakes. Maybe $2-$2.5K The third needs a stack of money, $4 or $5k, as some of that comes from Ireland or Japan, and the Govt will make it even more expensive. Over $4k So if you come across any let me know, and if you've done this conversion tell me what the difference in handling is, and what spring rates you're running. Cheers https://bcracing.com.au/collections/toyota-corolla-spindle-type-ae86-83-87

Local Autobarn has timing lights on sale for $50 instead of $80, I thought about buying a new one... I never thought about Cash Converters though. https://www.cashconverters.com.au/shop/tools-motor-hardware/hand-tools/jumper-leads/timing-light/036800350524 Get yourself one somewhere, you'll use it a lot,especially if you start improving that dizzy advance curve. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144677303073?itmmeta=01J3729Y5SCZXDPPEHW3SR0291&hash=item21af707321:g:D10AAOSwUa1i9KE2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Do6O0MpInp25mq43h1iBIBaj2CkFt%2FBdtsh0iY3Ss6%2BGQjoCjMYWGYk2ks0Et0q8%2BpmK29RMODpp%2BunbfnFWQehAS954L4Xam68zR9RiSu3jpx3kQOluNHssz7UIPbgL0GknlMk27BadarFvIC0Ci9fyDi00duIVrivK3dBNd5FCVTlm5dwbofVQXZe5pcuYeA5vV%2BTodeGRpp4z1nPxFhZNmB7l7NmVsJTmiAK1LViEfR%2BsuaLtPCkSb%2FnGHWVYqWOdwqjmCm5FabS%2Bn6w%2FApPCGO44I4GIaL%2BO3saBTE8|tkp%3ABk9SR_rip-KZZA ------------------------------ Ok, in a show of solidarity I've just bought the one on Ebay, my old one isn't even battery powered and I have a 4AGE sitting in the engine bay that will need timing in a day or two.

"So turning the dizzy to the right advances it it is currently sitting all the way right atm so something is not quite right because lining it up with 10 degrees is all the way in the left position " OK, which way does the rotor turn? Turning the dizzy the same way as the rotor retards it, turning the dizzy opposite to the rotor advances it. You can tell instantly by looking at the plug leads and the firing order, 1-3-4-2, so following lead 1 to lead 3 will tell you which way it turns. It should look like this, usually with #1 in that 1pm position- So turning it clockwise retards it, turning it anti-clockwise advances it. Have a re-think on that and re-set the timing just as you did, which is how I did it for decades before I had a timing light. Don't be afraid to stick 15deg on it, these motors handle a lot of advance without a problem. Remember, advance will raise your isle speed, retarding will slow it down, so factor that into your carb work too. Lack of fuel from blocked filters or low fuel level will obviously affect the motor at high fuel demands, ie foot hard down accelerating or top speed. Idle uses extremely little fuel, so a blocked filter is unlikely to affect it. Do some reading about pulling a carb top off and getting the jets out, its fiddly and a pain, but not hard.

Beautiful! If you paid under $10k you got a bargain! Lovely colour too, the best! Timing is not related to dizzy position overall, it depends on where the teeth on the dizzy were when the last person put it in the block. So it the dizzy is jammed hard against one end of its travel you pull it out and move it back to the middle. Not quite so simple as you will have to turn the oil pump slot a whisker to line up with it. Do you have a timing light? If not, you can only look inside the4 dizzy at where the arm is as it passes the sensor, just not as accurate. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/#comment-511594 So you can set the crank to 10deg BTDC and align the corner of the dizzy shaft with that little sensor strip, which is probably what you have done. Those dizzys were pretty crap just out of the box, the advance curve is very flat, so if its the same as mine you have a lot of performance to get out of it. Second question, does turning the dizzy clockwise advance the ignition or retard it? OK, I think you idle jet is blocked, or the float level is way out, as Parrot says. You could pull the top off the carb and look inside for dirt in the bottom or signs of corrosion from a dried carb. Measure where the fuel sits from the top and put a photo up on here for others to compare. The tar in the petrol makes jets smaller if a car is left for a couple of years without running. You might have to take the carb off and strip out all the jets, hose them out with carb cleaner, hose carb cleaner through the drillings where the jets sit and then reassemble. You should give it a jab of throttle when you're downshifting anyway, rev matching is much easier on a gearbox and the bearings for these gearboxes are no longer obtainable. So, a clean-out of carb jets, a check of ignition timing, and let us know how you go. here is what I've learnt and the mistakes I've made with mine-

Looks like fun! Start up a new thread so we can follow along.

Well, I couldn't find a way to measure the noise reliably, but it is quieter. Meanwhile, the no-throttle to low-throttle stumble was moving up the rev range, so last month I took the plugs out- An odd combination I thought, what connects cyls 1 and 3... So I looked in the dizzy, and found the cap was burnt underneath, something to do with the heatshield I was always going to fit but never did! The area was so soft it was easy to put my thumb through it. I bought a new one with a rotor online, its rather hard to find the old type that these are, but after spending a day or two farting around under the bonnet I decided it was time for the Haltech computer, which uses the later distributor, and other odd jobs like a lightweight flywheel, new crank seals front & rear, a look inside the sump and beat the dent out of it, new clutch master & slave cyls... and when its running again, a set of extractors! The Haltech requires a complete rewire, but this time I know a lot more about it! Inside the sump looks clean and tidy, I didn't have the balls to take a bearing cap or two off, and no pleasant surprises like forged rods or pistons.. its all quite stock. With it being off the road for a while the T50 is getting new synchros and forks, and a new input bearing at the local gearbox shop. The bearings are mainly still available, but a nightmare to try and get a set organised. The gearbox man said the bearing very rarely give out. Kickn5K might be right about cheap Ebay rads, from 8years ago when I bought it. I found it weeping at the top of the cores under the cap corner, so its had a cleanup and some epoxy dribbled in there. If it remains a problem I'll toss it out and replace it. ..and if you want to see desperate machining, look at the pressure plate holes in the flywheel! They drill & tap the holes then reduce the flywheel on a lathe to take out a good 1/3 of the hole! This is to take a 215mm clutch plate instead of the stock 200mm. At the moment it looks like this- but if I can get the gearbox back next week it should be much better in a couple of weeks time!

That was very neatly done! On occasions I've been pleasantly surprised to find Toyota cheaper than non-OEM brands for parts, its always nice to find out you haven't paid too much for something.

"Could using a filter with an Anti-Syphon valve have a negative impact," I don't think so, they are designed for full oil flow when running, then to hold oil in the filter when the motor is off. When we bought The Girls KE70 it had the wrong filter on, it fitted fine but had no anti-drainback valve and the bearings always rattled briefly when started in the morning. We changed it straight away and I changed bearings later on, just fitting the same size bearings again. The KE70 filter is upside-down, with the inlet at the bottom, so drains away easily without that valve "Anti-syphon valve This valve prevents the oil from running out of the filter when the engine is switched off. It has a function similar to that of the anti-drainback valve - with the difference that the valve is placed on the "clean side" of the filter. As a result, the filter is constantly filled with oil, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. After starting the engine, the anti-syphon valve significantly reduces dry friction between the parts working together, as it contributes to the rapid flow of oil to the engine. "

I see the inlet plenum is quite a different shape to the FWD smallport 4AGEs, they are more a symmetrical 'log' so the throttle body gets cut off the back and welded on the front. Is it worth modifying that manifold to put the TB on the front? The distributor is worse, they are on the front side of a 4AGE so the only thing on the back is the water junction for heater & bypass. The solution for that rear dizzy is to move to COPs and not have a dizzy, like the 20valve, but that's far more complex. Banjo is working on it- A distributorless 4K with a trigger wheel on the crank, you could chat to him about it. An Arduino ECU controlling the spark and coil-over-plugs setup, and the big advantage you have is that the ECU in the 4AFE already reads the trigger wheels, so you just need to relay that to a piggyback computer and get rid of the dizzy cap and all plug leads. You'd still need the distributor base for the trigger wheels. Ah- JohnDee is always a very clever man.. Its been done quite a bit, you can make it very simple if you fire more than one COP at a time, but you'll need more electronics experience than me!

The 4AFE should have the same block so bolt up to the T50, but watch out for the water connections jamming against the firewall. The ECU I'd expect to be non-tunable. Arduino are making some very cheap tuning computers now, Banjo showed me one a day ago. I've got an older Haltech I'm in the middle of wiring right now to replace the 4AGE ECU. I would agree about the Takumi Tax on the 4AGE, the 4AFE will do what you need in a jeep, and if not put a supercharger on it!

Not that I've seen. Where are you, not in Aussie I expect, they never came here. Probably some went to NZ as Jap used imports, there were some great 4WD versions of FWDs that were never imported new. Russia took a lot of Jap imports too, all the 4WD would be handy there. What's the drive setup like? Mechanical front and rear with a silicon center diff? The Japanese could buy them with a 4AGE 20valve in. Ah- got distracted looking up KE70s in Russia.. https://auto.drom.ru/all/?multiselect[]=9_26_4_1&multiselect[]=9_26_4_0 Ru400,000 is about $7000 here, so they are not super-cheap. So, I reckon you're on your own at the moment! What would you like to do to it?

Here's a starting point for which jets and chokes should be in there-

"ems as tho my carbs are out of tune won’t hold idle with out choke out, " Take the tops off, unscrew the various jets and clean them out with a can of carb cleaner. Shoot cleaner down the holes and drillings where the jets go. The fuel cell may have been replacing a rusty fuel tank, and dirt from that might be blocking the idle jet on one carb now. Hold a carb top up vertically and have the float hanging so the arm just touch the needle and seat valve, and measure the gap float to top with verniers. Compare the two carbs, the gap should be 11mm from memory. That gap determines your fuel level in the carb, which also determines the leaness. Another one is the gasket between the carb and the manifold, a difficult choice. Some get bolted up tight, other theories reckon they must float so the engine vibrations don't disturb the fuel. See if they are rigid now. Then take the carbs off and inspect the O-rings or the gaskets to the manifold. Any leak in there will run a carb lean. Then back the junction screw off that joins the carbs so they are independent at idle and see if each one makes a distinct clean 'click' when you let its throttle drop 5mm. If the idle stop screw is not set correctly it will not have a clean click, or if the throttle shaft is bent so one of the two plates hits first. Check each carb then run it so you can play with each to see which one is lazy. Take a length of hose and listen to each of the 4 throats, they should each make a clean distinct 'thop' sound at idle. The quiet or fuzzy ones need their idle mixture screw adjusted. get each pair sounding as similar as possible. Then set the idle speed screw on each carb to make the carbs sound the same. Then set the balance screw joining the carbs so they open the same from that idle point. There, you've set them up! Of course the jets may not be ideal, but you need the car running as best you can before driving it and doing 'plug cuts' to compare the 4 plugs and see if the same fuel is getting delivered to each throat and if the mixture is correct right through the range. A mixture display and an oxy sensor is the modern way to do this, with an oxy sensor port in each exhaust branch... The trouble is, you spend that money and once you have the right jets in the carbs you never need the gear again. There're books written on how to tune twin carbs, this is just a quick reply...

Interesting- A couple of grand ($US!) would buy one that might do it... https://www.keconversions.com/product/3RZ-ST141-corona-sump-custom-turbo-conversion/167?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=27 and does it work with their KE20 conversion kit? https://www.keconversions.com/product/3RZ-2RZ-KE30-KE55-TE31-engine-conversion-mounts-swap/35?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=27 If not, you need to be a very neat sheet-metal welder and make your own sump welded onto the 3RZ base. Get hold of KEConversions and ask them. I can't get excited about the 3RZ though, its 175kg stuck in the nose for a low-power engine with lots of torque. Nothing better you could use?

You'd be short of room I'd say, DCOE Webers take up quite a length, plus an air filter on top of that. They'd make it quicker, I'm sure, use more fuel because of that, make a lot more noise and probably cost a chunk to get tuned with the right jets. But they were the go-to for any car being hotted up in the 60s and '70s for a good reason! A DD Weber, not so much, it would be much more like the carb on there. The downdrafts are not designed for sport, they're designed to fit in a small space. To make it really work you'd need some head porting to match it all up, a hotter cam grind and ideally a set of extractors, although that stock manifold looks pretty good. You'd spend as much as getting a 4AGE and fitting it, but that might be quite worn out and at least you know just how good your own motor is right now.

The lash cap gap will change the geometry of the rocker, you will have to check that. If you take them out you will have a gap of 10 or 20thou or more, depending on how thick they are. Screwing the rocker down to take that up will make it tilt more in one direction right through its movement, so it may jam against the pushrod end at one extreme or run the rocker end off the valve tip. The company that set the motor up would have trimmed the valves to shorten them by the cap thickness so the rocker maintained ideal geometry (I hope!) so look at the movement carefully and leave them in if the rocker is biased one way or the other without them. A bigger tappet gap will reduce cam duration, but we're only talking a few thou or you move off the 'soft' part of the ramp and the cam hits the whole valve train with more of a whack. Ah Grasshopper, one day you will learn about the 4AGE motor...