love ke70

haha, ebay alarm and immobiler or store bought? they both have the same instructions anyway, totally f@$ked lol. i only connect the basics, all the dicky features are bullshit. eg. press lock and alarm sound button simultaneously with a peice of unicorn horn between ass cheeks and car will drive 10 metres. stop.immobilise. lock, unlock. and upon approach by a german shepard will self eject. like, wtf. who wants that shit.

move it away and never looked at a 4a in terms of fitting an sc14 but surely a big chunky braced to the hills mount can be fabbed to move it away and down or whatever is needed, it only spins one direction so the forces shouldnt be too bad, surely?

wouldnt it be easier to just make a different bracket for the supercharger? and with forced induction the cylinder should be getting its full fill, then plus some. whereas n/a it only fills to a certain extent, different figures seem to be bandied around all the time, but thats the difference i can gander. and with the 1900cc kit, what is the bore and stroke? and how much do you have to clearance the block? the HKS 2400cc kit for the 1g is actually only 2250 or so, and has a clearance in the block about 70mm long for the extra 4mm stroke

lol, shut down :P is that a chop? looks pretty nifty :wink:

i disagree, i run my 1g on the factory gauge. if it moves past where it normally sits then you have an issue, if it doesnt, bobs your uncle....

same thread is also on toymods, might be worth a look, couple of other views expressed over there

who on here can tell you about the oil flow issues of a 1g? or if you put an sr20 in it, who on here can tell you the issues they have, having gone through them personally? if your 4age-ing the ke, then yes, here is plenty good enough. its the in depth tech that i find different. not saying one is better, just more tech heads over there...

my point is, you have no interest in toymods because you modify the arse out of the nissan, rather than the toyota. i only use toymods to talk shit in the ke corolla thread, buy stuff, and to learn about the evilz 1g

bens just never been, so he doesnt know what hes missing. plus, he drives a nissan :D

i swear i waste my f@$king time sometimes. f@$kING CLICKY-CLICKY

Anddd, anyway what the heck difference does an aftermarket gauge do? if its getting hotter than it normally sits its overheating. simple. service the cooling system. sort the issue. maybe you need to look into the thermosyphoning effect of the cooling system? f@$k the water pump off, reduce the size of your radiator 50% but make sure it is an alloy diagonal flow and let the thermosyphon do its thing.* *may or may not be a pisstake of a very ridiculous thread found here all for you ben :D

the sensor goes in a hole. the sensor has a wire attached the wire is attached to the gauge unless I'm missing something...

raw, i wouldnt be complaining :y: find an earlier one, and make him buy it for you. then drop the motor in that :) wish my boss bought me a ute lol

bugger that, get the older one, early sixties, step side tray for the win :) and nothing beats a worked 383 :y:

was that my parcel shelf you used? hope so :) sounds like things are going well matt, and never trust a second hand engine, i havnt found a good one yet lol good luck with it all :D

preliminary digging says pistons are different. so it may work yes. but you could just as easy deck the block...

I'm trying to remember what is different, i think its the heads that are different and piston/rod are the same. ill do some digging..

theyre both 24.95 ish mm using digital verniers, they fill the gap. are you planning on using custom pistons in your 5k? the 1g pistons will be too small to fit the 5k bore....

well, people always say you can put 1ggte pistons and rods into a 4k going off the measurements etc, so i thought to prove it true or false, having the majority of the ingredients. not a perfect experiement, but close enough. you will need 1ggte or gze or ge rods, so long as they are not gen 3 1ggte rods you will be fine, as these have a bigger big end. the ones i had had .25 oversize bearings, so they were a little tight on the crank, but for my purpose all was well. i also had no bearings on the crank, don't know what id done with them, bin I'm guessing. but it was bolted in, so again, close enough :lolcry: i took the rings off the piston for ease of use. anddd, it works thats the piston near bdc and at TDC, it was about 3mm below the deck, which may work well for a turbo setup, or now you know it works, rig it up and work out exactly how much you want to deck the block by, but 3mm is a good rough guide. it was measured with verniers :P you have to swap rod and piston, as the piston (edit: gudgeon, duh) pins are different, 1g is 20mm and 4k is 18 mm. I'm pretty tired so its fairly breif, and no point boring you with shit, any questions, please ask, I'm willing to help :bash: cheers, andrew

sell the lot and save the money as a start towards a house deposit, or tools for work etc. something worthwhile. thats the smart thing to do. but you gotta live, so do what you want. its gonna cost, and its gonna be a pain in the arse, and its not gonna be road registerable...

a-sookie-sookie. who gives a toss, its gonna handle like arse whatever motors in it....

the idea is we do the thinking for them :rolleyes:

christmas trees, f@$king things

my thoughts... ughhh coming from someone with a 1ggte in a ke70... rb30 = ughh

if you put the clip on so the shut, square end is pointing down the length of the winder, you can simply hook a flat head under it there and slip it off, easiest way. i found one of them tools in my parts car, yet to use it though....