Jono.C

Honestly they're one of the worst engines ever made. It wouldn't be the worth the time or money at all.. Even 22r would be considerably better over the 2sc

Maaco is a franchise sort of autobody chain in the U.S. I believe they mostly do sort of budget cheaper resprays have seen some of their work before and it's been ridiculously cheap (1500usd to prep and paint a mx5) and actually was quite presentable but they'd done poor taping job on mirrors etc instead of just removing them. I'm sure it depends on the exact franchise location too

Comes down to more factors than just tyre size as well though. Size of steering wheel is one ie will be easier to steer at low speed/ stopped with a 350mm wheel rather than 300 for example. Wheel alignment plays a big factor too. Castor camber and toe change on my Celica made it considerably heavier than car parks than before And running p/s knuckles on manual rack gives good lock but once again makes steering heavier. Weldy/ heavily shimmed diff makes it hard to steer in some parking/ low speed scenarios so avoid that too for street use. Basically keep it sensible and I don't think you'll have any need for power steering. Once you're at like 40kmh+ factory steering is light as hell anyway

Haven't been working on this much, been working on other cars or house stuff mostly. Going to re-do brakes to include a ke20 brake proportioning valve to see if it improves them. My coilovers are finished and just need to sort the camber tops now. They've had 4" cut out of the strut tubes to accept short stroke gas inserts which are 100mm shorter in total. Changed the top of the strut body to ke55 so they have external gland nuts making it easier to get the shocks out later on. Hsd weld on sleeve kit fitted also. Pretty happy with them size wise, at 4" lower than stock they're fully captive with the helper spring. Adjustable range is between 2-5" lower than factory so plenty of room to play with ride height.

I thought same thing.. but may be temporary as whole car is yet to painted etc once fab works done?

I wrote the wiki conversion years back, struggling to remember now. Far as I remember probably just what I had at the time but fairly sure the bearings are same between them. I just converted my ke17 to ke70 fronts and I used all of the ke70 bearings.

At that stage yes. Now has a 10a laptop charger wired to it and hidden behind. Haven't got around to putting it on the well yet

I've had similar in my shed for a while

Worked on a 3L on the weekend. 4 piece exhaust gasket.. lol

Exhaust is done. Flanged at extractors and above diff. 2" straight through with one muffler. Went 2" so i can re-use it with the 7k. Due to the bigger ke70 gearbox and the xmember there was no room to tuck it through the gap so he went around. This actually works out better though as i won't have issues when the car see's a t50. And still tons of clearance from exhaust to ground also.

More photo's tomorrow when it comes back from the exhaust shop

Brakes are finished and working. May try rebleeding though as i'm not convinced it's full pedal pressure at the moment. Rears need adjusting also as they're dragging but i just wanted to get them working for it to go on the towtruck tomorrow to get the exhaust made Bolted bonnet on and sorted out a new bootlock so that latches also Also re-lettered the radio blanking plate. pretty happy with how it came out

Yeah I’d assume terminal, it’s what you’d replace before looking into it any further anyway.. I haven’t seen anywhere to buy clamps etc like that however don’t they run a rubber boot of the terminal/s in them anyway? I just use the sca ones. Never had an issue

One thing I’d suggest is test any thermostat before you put it in. I seem to get 2 faulty ones before I get a decent one these days

Brake hardlines done both front and rear all remade. Just awaiting softlines now and I can bleed it up. Booked for an exhaust mid August

Yeah that exhaust is not great

I ordered apv brand which are available online, autobarn etc and meet all aus requirements. No comment on quality yet as mine are arriving Monday, but my brother has same brand in his crown and are top notch

Been doing some small things while i wait for parts to arrive. Added some rubber under the battery clamp i made and cut the posts a little with some wingnuts replacing standard nuts to make it look a little better. Started modifying a console for it too. One of the hardest things to find for these is an intact radio blanking plate. I hate the look of a new headunit in the steel dash but couldn't find a plate to save myself. Luckily i did however have 2 halves. The corolla lettered part was quite bent but all i could find (actually came in the ke10 i just wrecked) Went to see a local plastic welder who's done a few jobs for me in the past and left it with it. Damn happy with what he came up with! looks factory and even managed to flatten it out. Now just need to redo the silver lettering and highlights Pretty happy with it

Looking good. Vanetians suit it well

Your list is pretty much same as mine. I sorted my bar mounts on the weekend. Ive also ordered some seatbelts. I’ll let you know part number once they’re in and working etc

Bought a ke11 for 700 with rego perfect interior. Sold it for $2500 which at the time was good. Now would be upwards of $7k.. Throughout the 90s and early 2000s were all worth nothing. So were used as speedway, paddock cars or crushed when metal value was higher than cars value. Now that there’s none of them left and you can’t find a good one easily or at all price just goes ^^^ I remember thinking $3k was steep for an ht wagon I looked at 5 years ago. Wouldn’t be worth less than $15k now..

Never seen a replacement available, only for the ke15/17 which is different. “Apparently” a certain hilux one fits but never seen it done only heard of it. Message “Toyota heritage” on Facebook or his website and see if he has plans to reproduce them. He has reproduced many other items for them in the past

Congrats on the rego hopefully I won’t be far off Bunnings sell 4ft long threaded bar sections for $3 if you wanted to replace that air cleaner post

Measure width of yours drum to drum and ask them to do the same? Easiest way to tell. The amount of diffs I’ve gone to look at that weren’t what they were advertised as also.. probably better to just get them to measure. There’s other considerations also though.. Handbrake cables, brake lines, brake Size ie will it be unbalanced on standard master and gear ratio etc If it’s just because yours isn’t in the best shape I’d just search for one same as yours or look into rebuilding it. Corolla centres can be swapped over between models for the most part but without knowing what diff you have now and what the “81” diff is it’s hard to comment

Been pretty busy lately only been chipping away at a few things. Finally got front bar mounted up properly. For some reason had to reshape and slot the front brackets to get it to sit right. As well as modifying the end ones but it's sitting right now so that's a bonus. Ordered seatbelts last night so waiting for them to arrive. Didn't come with rears so not putting any in. For some reason, The battery tray seems to be the rustiest part of any ke1x? So i found my best one, had it sandblasted and powdercoated. Have added some rubber under the battery also and made a quick little bracket for rego (may end up in boot later on) (bay is quite dirty still, needs a seriously good clean and polish to clean it up when i get the chance) Finally got onto fixing the incredible noisy and sloppy idler arm bushing too. Ordered a superpro replacement. All back together and 100x better than it was. Although, It is a one piece bushing and the directions say it'll press in, it wont. Being not rubber like the original it's too hard and just crushes itself. I had to neatly slice the bushing into 2 halves to get it all together. Something to note if you plan on replacing your own