Jono.C

Depends what you want to do with the car? What are you looking for exactly I've personally done a 3TC into a Ke70 with a T50 running and driving for $350.. That's virtually the price of a cam and manual swap for a 4k. 3tc in ke70 was great, Super easy and went well with the Weber and extractors it had on it. There are options that aren't hard and can be done cheap and are a lot better than 4k.

Really makes me miss my Celica! Only thing that's annoying me is that the front numberplate is bent haha If you need any bits let me know as i've wrecked around 5 of these in the past. Also RT142 shares the exact same floorpan and chassis parts

The problem with a Ke30 is more the front end not the rear.. No point switching the back and not touching the front.

You're a muppet mate

Should look good with the parts installed!

It is when you have a popped disk in your back, Can't get under it properly at the moment. Hence the reason i'll be doing it on a hoist

Yeah where the centre bolts in. I know how to fix it properly i just want something i can smear on it as it is at the moment to stop the leak. I plan to fix it properly after rego at a mates hoist, Just wanting a temp fix

Yeah even if you do cam it you're best off doing the AFM and TB swap, Costs like $20 and makes a great improvement

Hey guys, I have a car i'm getting through rego and the diff is leaking between the housing and where the centre mates (Banjo diff) Basically i'm wondering if anyone knows of any sealant i can use as a temporary measure to pass pits and stop/ slow the leak? It only needs to be a temporary fix as once i can drive it i'll be putting it on a friends hoist and fixing it properly. Was wondering how sump sealer would go? Any ideas would be sweet, Cheers

You'll notice more an improvement running an Ma61 AFM and TB than you will with headers! Good upgrade

Edit: misread.

Close enough for that kinda thing. Shouldn't have any issues putting ke70 mounts on it and fitting it. The ke30 mounts wouldnt fit the ke70 anyway. The shorter width just means you'll be able to run wider deeper wheels and make it look cooler

I wouldn't call it a survivor car considering its rattle canned and stripped.. But it's cool. Bit of work in it!

OBX headers are used by a lot of people. Not necessarily a no-name brand but you get a lot of different love/ hate answers from people who have them. You'll notice stuff all difference on a T series motor from a good set to a cheap set, they just don't flow enough Atleast those headers have a decent flange, I've found most break off or crack where the actual exhaust is welded to the collector. That said as-long as you have a hanger close-ish to the headers so the exhaust isnt swinging off them you shouldn't have an issue

Been almost 12 months and i've done nothing! Ripped a few more skids but it's still waiting at my friends place for me to tough it. Spent more time working on other peoples cars and my other cars over the last 12 months that i haven't had time.. My crown is almost ready for rego which means i can start work on slotting the 1jz in it and converting it to P/s and rack and pinion. Unsure which way to go with finishing this off.. It's full rack and pinion and coilovers etc already but i don't really want any more run-ins with the police so not sure how spastic i should get. I'll update as soon as anything more happens!

Spray a panel as a test and see how it comes out, If it's a bit dark try spraying some gloss white down as a base and then spraying over that. I ended up doing that on my Celica

I call bullshit on 160k.. If he hit it at that speed that corolla would not look like that.. Unless he managed to half his speed before hitting the item.. Seems like a muppet looking for attention

They're the same between ke30 and ke35.. Do you have the factory rims on your car? If so the width and offset are printed on them.

Clear cache etc in the browser and try again. Is it only from the one pc/ device you're having the issue from i'm assuming? What browser do you use, Have you tried another?

Got a couple of cars okay the moment but I might try and get something written up when I can!

From memory Lca point is the same between the cross members, Lca length is the difference. Otherwise simply use an r31 Lca A lot simpler and cheaper to use Toyotas rack geometry that's already in place than to have someone else figure it out

I've done about 6 corolla's to RnP conversion now, And easiest/ best way for you would be to use the complete ke70 Crossmember. It's a little wider, But i always weld flat plate on top and drill bolt holes to suit Ke3x/ke5x rails and then trim the extra length off. This ensures the rack to be in proper position and thus reducing chance of bump steer/ binding etc Rest is pretty east. I've used Bluebird otr's in the past. But really s13/s14 suspension is back peddling with that chassis. Ae86 would be a far better idea.. But each to their own.

Those 14's look perfect! Going to shine up the lips at all? I reckon ku31's are sick. I had one set for 3 years of daily abuse. Achillies 123's are deffs worth a look too if available in 14's. i pay 99 a tyre in 195/50 15's and they're rad. A lot of grip for a cheap tyre. Not so brilliant in wet but no worse than stock tyres

I know nothing at all about rollcages, but couldn't you just angle the bar the other way? So that that's the low end and missing the winder?

Use the "Find a cam" function on the Crow cams site and see what they recommend :)