Jono.C

Gross

Got a car past engineering with cut falcons in the front. I'll take the engineers word

I use a leather one with a buckle, Like the ones old geezers with braces wear. On my ke10 i put it through the 2 holes near the battery in the rad support and i have the belt slipped through the smaller hole and the bigger hole in the bonnet off to the side of the factory latch. It's harder on the ke10 cause it's a little area, but it's super easy on my Celica, It's had multiple drift days etc like that and never once had anyone say anything about it

Yeah it would, But you wont get that crease out without ruining the paint, It'll crack as soon as the metal bends back the other way again Also just do what i do and loop a belt through under the bonnet to somewhere on the rad support. I do it on my cars for drift days etc to pass tech inspection

Technically cut springs aren't illegal, It's the un-captiveness and generally stroke length too short thats illegal.

What's your idea of best? Best overall? Best for cheap? Best for Motorsport? Depends what you're going to use it for

That's a very easy fix. You got lucky You can get butane bottle torches for like $30 at k&d, use that to heat the crease and put water on it to keep shrinking the metal, hammer it flat with a dolly and a tiny skim of filler Most shops would do it in half an afternoon, but labour is generally $100 p/h

Seen it done, looks crap. Change it to ke55, best looking by far

I run 123's for steerers and usually ku31s on the rear. You can't get ku31 anymore so usually run those cheap hyfly's. Ku31s lasted forever, hyflys haven't been too bad either, grip was a bit better on ku31s but more expensive. Usually run like 30psi and have them directional. 123's are awesome in the dry front or rear but pathetic in the wet

The reason people ask these prices for these cars is they see that's what other people are asking.. And that's what a select few will pay! So why sell your car for $1k when someone else has the same thing for $3k and both sell the same? If no-one paid the high cost in the first place no-one would follow and list at this price. Mind you i once bought a Ke30 for $350 and was offered $2k on the way home so he took it.. $1650 profit in 30 minutes.

6 years is good, I get like 6 months.. Price is steep, Repco quoted me $97 and got one through sparco for $65!

How good are rivnut/ nutserts!

Tuff! Most people put ke2x seats in ke10, You did it the other way round haha. Ke10 low backs are cooler though, suit this very wheel

Tough! Looks nice and straight which is good Is that rear side window smashed? or just the photo playing tricks on me? Supra looked cool too, Shame about the stack

Yeah you need the ke10 clutch kit as Taz said. Clutch diameter is same but input shaft is much smaller. I also found that one of my early pressure plates would not fit a ke70 flywheel as the studs would not line up

Ke1x tailshaft won't fit ke70 box as is.. Get a ke30 yoke, it's correct for that gearbox and also has the same smaller unis as the ke1x tailshaft. Works overrated

4k is a fair improvement in a ke10. When making the switch you'll need to use the waterpump that's on the factory motor, All the later model ones are different and fan will hit the radiator Keep the factory alternator and use the top bracket from original engine, It's external reg and the later ones are internal which means you'd need to change wiring.. You'll also need to swap exhaust manifolds to the 1k as well as the downpipes and flanges changed later on Incorrect. Later model boxes fit fine. Only thing you need to change is hole in the floor and switch to a ke30 tailshaft yoke. Even a t50 fits in a standard ke10 tunnel. Auto without mods at all and manual tunnel needs a few taps here and there

Yeah i have Keihen bike carbs on my 5k. Motor has pretty much every mod you could do to it as a supporting mod. Not worth doing, sounds sick at 8500-9k but i should have just gone webers or something, Hasn't really been worth it

Any reason for the SRA this time instead of IRS?

Yessir i have!

Yes 5.5mm is bullshit i'd say. Usually you go 20 or 40 thou.. 5.5mm is 216 thou and the valves would be near-on sticking out past the deck

Standard 3rz in hilux

Please tell me you're going to re-weld those engine mounts to the crossmember? They look like its been glued! Car looks tough though, Good with the rota's

Factory hilux diffs aren't THAT strong, Broken 2 axles and 1 centre so far.. With billet axles yes, Stock 400000k old clunker no.. Volvo diffs are pretty tough, Fairly cheap too as volvo's are gross so everyone chucks them out

$500 is easily enough to build a budget set of coilovers. I used Brumby shocks in standard ke70 strut tubes and bought some otomoto sleeves and springs second hand for $150. Total cost was like $300 The cut spring part isn't necessarily the illegal part. I got a car through pit inspection with cut springs (still had dags on them) and short shocks which held them captive and they didn't say anything at all.. It's more how low you go (you need to maintain a certain stroke length to be legal) and keeping them captive.. Otherwise just get an oxy torch onto them to compress them and run mk1 golf gt1 shocks up front