Jono.C

No it won’t, would need something else and everything would need shorting and modifications so not a cheap exercise

The ke38 pattern is 4x114.3 not 4x100 No point changing the rear axle its too wide, would need custom mounts and also handbrake cables etc with no real gain If you actually just want 4x100 pattern you can buy adaptor spacers from 4x110 to 4x100 online

That’s probably down to the positive camber you have with the 20 struts too, id be real keen on throwing some camber tops at it while you’re doing the coil overs and try and get it into the negatives

Do you need a pair of ke1x strut casings Stu? I may have steering arms also if need be I have that hsd kit for my sprinter in 6kg but I’ll probably be going a lot lower than you so I was worried about wheels hitting guards etc

If you need an extra 30mm in height run the standard Ke10 spring hats on the 20 struts you have Stu

I’ve seen that before and I looked into it, a lot of mk1 shocks don’t seem to fit as they’re wider in the body if they’re aftermarket for some reason? And the pulsar ones I looked at were no better than stock just shorter still very soft

You’ll be probably 4x that high e30 price into the ke70 by the time it’s done honestly and as Dave said it won’t be as good as the e30 would have been originally. Even if you buy a 4 cylinder e30 and convert it to 6cyl it’ll work out cheaper and better than the ke70 idea (a friend has just done this)

I’ve noticed it harder to find good running complete engines.. Most I see forsale lately are stuffed and basically buying it for accessories, running complete motors missing a heap of bits or just heads etc which are usually no good anyway. I got got a complete townace with less than 90000k and the motor has receipts for a ton of work for $400 which I was happy with. Apart from that my sprinter came with a 4k pulled from a ke70 in 1991 and had 51000km on it! But spent the last 3 months chasing all the missing bits to install it

Yeah those are also trv like I bought. But they’re 6” wife and terribly high offset also only a pair. And chances of finding a matching pair in that same stud pattern in that wheel are very slim

Yes and no on the wheel importing. I've found them cheaper in Aus than from Japan latelty.. I bought a set of 13x6.5 techno trv for my sprinter the other day, sale price was around $290aud, shipping within japan, brokerage fee and shipping to aus by *sea* was another $390

So, I bought another ke10.. This now makes 4 ke1x chassis cars I own currently haha I'm not 100% sure of it's outcome currently but I bought it anyway.. the shell is quite rusty in the front and the rear end has had a lot of crash damage in the rear end and as a result has a lot of bog and misalignment.. I believe I'll use this a donor for my other green sedan.. see what happens!

Another few bits of the puzzle! Highly recommend Toyota Herritage for any bits! I chose the US spec tail lights as i though it'd suit the white best

My ke11 had a 4ku in, was healthy and was absolutely zero difference from a standard 4k.. i had high hoped but nope

So i bought some wheels. I've had a love for these wheels for a long time, and it's strange because i hate tri spokes usually? But these are such a cool shape and seem to suit anything small and 60's/70's perfectly. Lips need some work and a polish, they're also 4x114.3 but the wagon is getting converted anyway

Well as i advised no progress has been made at all on this.. Wagon's getting closer to paint but lately i've been making a few trips to pick up the parts that came with the Sprinter. Made a couple loads so far probably one more to go before i have all the spares. Making a trip this weekend to raid a ke11 for parts also. Need to cut off the front clip for bits for the wagon

The car was considerably more expensive than that lol.. The Carton is 12 months storage at my mates place, which is where the photo's are taken

So i may have bought yet another Corolla for the collection.. This makes 3 Ke1x chassis i own now, With a possible 4th and 5th in my sights also So basically, What we have here is a mostly original Ke17 Sprinter. Car hasn't been on the road since 1994 and it's sat outside ever since.. It's currently a rolling shell but it does come a 4k and a k50 Basic run down is it's quite straight, mostly rust free and very complete. Everything interior wise will need replacing besides the passengers door card and seat.. It's had a hit in the rear so the boot won't close, but certainly fixable! The main good bit of the deal is it came with 6x Ke1x chassis's spares.. So now i have about a dozen guards multiple bootlids bumpers etc all stashed away as a "just incase scenario" for any of my cars... This will not be getting worked on at all until the wagon is painted and on the road, It's in storage now at my friends house until such time

Hope you didn't pay what the guy was asking for it! Does look like a nice clean car though. The guy selling it got into an argument with me telling me it was a ke25.. Where abouts in Tas are you?

Looks exactly the same, not further updates as yet unfortunately! Weather and lack of shed plus work = not much done. Mostly waiting on panel beater to be finish up a couple jobs and then it'll be trailered around there for rust repair, sandblasting of front end and doors and painting!

Yeah. 30 and 55 have same diameter rotor just different width. Same pcd as strut to bolt on but you'll need to drill and tap holes larger on the strut

If you need a hand or someone on the beers for encouragement gimme a yell

I think the thing I enjoy most in car builds is seeing parts being utilised odd other makes and models as opposed to just buying custom everything. Do quite enjoy the colour of this also!

^ Plus with temperature changes and vibration it'll Crack and fall out anyway. As well it will not stop the rust from spreading further.. Generally you're best off not to touch rust unless you want to fix it properly otherwise it just ends up worse. If you can't weld it yourself just save until you can pay someone else to do it, otherwise you end up in a cycle of repairing it every couple months as it falls apart

So this ends my week off work so progress will now be pretty slow.. Entire car has been baremetal stripped and etch primed. I wont be painting this one myself as i i plan to keep this car forever pretty much so i want it to last.. Car revealed a few previous hits with a stack of bog in the rear and a fair bit of rust in the back, as well as some rust holes in the roof... So it'll probably be a while before an update, but here's how it looks

Stripped front end right back today and threw undercoating on it, Rust repair will happen later, getting the whole car stripped at the moment is the goal. Tailgate stripped to bare metal also, little rust few dents but not too bad! I'll be doing 400/1000 then prime tomorrow, ran out of paper to get it done today