Ok, guys.

 

I'm getting the Tayell conversion done to my diff.

 

I will measure the plates and draw them.

 

I will measure the springs and get them made.

 

I will make a few copy's, and sell them.

 

If anyone is seriously interested, send me a message,

 

I'm not sure how much i will sell them for, but it will be cheaper than a Tayell conversion.

I'm wondering if its even legal to copy them... :P

Just did a bit of digging around about these:

Has a reference to spring loadings and how the plates work.

Datsun 1200

 

 

Fitting Sprung Load Locker:

 

The diff is modified so that two plates are fitted into the diff centre with springs applying equal pressure on either axle, proving a break away pressue of appox 50 psi (lsd is about 75-85psi i think and standard open diffs are about 20-25 psi) so its a midway thing, but it only costs $250 to get fitted and has proven to last 3 rally seasons quite regularly, when it does die the diff acts open centre and costs $150 to make like brand new again, the guy that did it for me takes youre diff centre for approx. 10 days so you need alternate for mean time. the only restrictions as far as the car goes is that it will fit all diffs except 2 he found he couldn't do so far (i think charade and some other small thing) so h190 is no prob and other restriction is the car has to have less than 200hp (at wheels i think it is). apparently there are a few guys around doing this conversion but the guy that did it for me is called "Tayell Automotive" in East Bentleigh Melbourne Ph: (03) 9579-5529 and John is the blokes name

 

As far as driving charachteristics it basically acts like an LSD, as in both wheels will put power to the ground but when turning the outside wheel will be allowed to spin faster and not harm turning or scrub tyres, also I'm told it will not push you through a corner anything like a locked diff does when youre going hard, though it will a little. This is all what ive deen told as ive only had the

conversion done for a few days i havent fully explored its driving charachteristics though it seems very effective, see project car in october 4th entry for descritoin of what ive found so far.

Just adding I don't think the plates touching the spider gears will do much. The plates contact the diff axle gears all the time and the plate should be in the center and under load 100% of time. If it did slide the spider gear would just wear the plate a bit the plates are alloy. So no damage I think could occur.

 

one thing you have to look at is surface the plates contact the axle gears on. On some diffs they will need machining on the gears (the USA maker of these uses a bench grinder..LOL) So I haven't bothered to look in my rolla diff but just watch out for that. Get as much surface area as possible there and flat as.

 

Cam

Save your money and buy a real slippery. Anything else is a poor substitute. If they were that good, EVERYBODY would be using it.

And if you are not going the LSD route, why not just get Tayell to do it for you?

 

It isn't expensive, and you will know it has been done right.

Save your money and buy a real slippery. Anything else is a poor substitute. If they were that good, EVERYBODY would be using it.

A friend has one in the rear of his Land cruiser and seems to work ok under light to moderate loads but if you get the car bouncing up rocks/climbs etc it cracks out one wheel skids.

The plates that i would not be a exact copy of the Tayell conversion, i would change it.

 

i am getting my diff done to see if it actually works.

It's me again.

 

I got the Tayell diff.

 

It went really well. It has lasted so far. I am thinking that a welded diff is better for me.

As my car doesn't do many Km on the road. I have now changed my diff. I got a KE38 wagon diff and brakes in my car now.

The new diff is bigger, and it has got bigger brakes.

 

Cheers Jarrod.

any update on this Corolla1?

 

still making sets?

 

your old one for sale?

i was woundering if anyone with this system had a vid of it in action. maby doing a burnout or somthing so we can see how tight the LSD is.

As I mentioned in this thread, they slip during cornering on tarmac like its not even there. If you jack the car up, both wheels will rotate forwards like an LSD.

On low grip surfaces like gravel, the inside wheel will skip a little like a locker as the tyres aren't gripping up.

 

These work well when the driveline is loaded up.....aggressive throttle and clutch dumps. They were really intended for club cars and rally cars. Most have the springs replaced every season.

 

Theres no well in hell i'm going to post a burnout vid....only to have the police track me down as a hoon and confiscate my car.

 

I sold mine a long time ago and it went behind a CA18. I can't recall if the gears failed or if the tayell setup failed....either way it lasted a few weeks.

Edited April 4, 201016 yr by kangaroosa

grave dig, but i bought kangaroosa's, the bearings died when i ran it dry on oil, then sold it to mate, and the guy he sold the car to just sold the car on ebay and listed it had the "lsd" so it seams to have lasted, needed new springs when i got it

 

thinking of getting a new one now

Edited July 17, 201115 yr by pozman

This was a common method for making cheapish LSDs on a lot of cars before the Torsen design caught on.

 

They don't lock up under acceleration & release on deceleration like a clutch-pack LSD, they have a constant spring tension all the time.

 

Still, seeing it is so hard and so expensive to get a proper LSD for a Rolla they make a good substitute.

grave dig, but i bought kangaroosa's, the bearings died when i ran it dry on oil, then sold it to mate, and the guy he sold the car to just sold the car on ebay and listed it had the "lsd" so it seams to have lasted, needed new springs when i got it

 

thinking of getting a new one now

 

Most valid gravedig ever, keep up the good work. :wink: