Tech Articles

THIS THREAD APPLIES MAINLY TO SETUP OF A GRIP CAR BUT SOME THINGS DISCUSSED CAN APPLY TO DRIFT ALSO Also, this thread is mostly aimed at AE71/86's and KE70's, but most of this info can be used on other cars. I've spent a bit of time looking through the different suspension related topics, mainly on ae86dc, and Ive noticed that nobody has accually posted much good info up on why things do what they do. Every body seems to put up posts along the lines of "use cut down falcon springs and suzuki seirra front shock and you'll be sweet" nothing about what real effect this has on the vehicle just that thats what you need to do. As such i thought it would be a good idea t…

Firstly, To the moderators, is this the best place to post this in the forum? I looked around, seemed appropriate, if not feel free to move it. For those on Toymods you will notice that this guide is also there too. I spent quite some time gathering bit and pieces of 4A-C and 4A-GE cooling systems. I currently have a complete water system(apart from radiator) for an AE71 4A-C, AE93 4A-GE, and a JDM AE86 4A-GE and part of an AE82 4A-GE system. The aim of this guide is to show the similarities and difference between each of the systems and to give tips about what can be used in different configurations. Comparison Water Pump: A front wheel drive (FWD) 4A-GE w…

Just did this drawing for another forum member, thought it may be of use for others. Mods - Is this suitable for a sticky!? Diagram shows how to convert your previously carby car for EFI conversion, or also for a rising rate carby turbo fuel set up. As mentioned on the diagram, the return line from the engine bay can go directly back into the tank, or back into the surge tank. For the carby turbo setup, pretty much any EFI pressure pump will do the job (except intank pumps*). However all of the pressure and flow they make is not required for the carby. This can be succesfully halved by running a ballist resistor (ceramic box next to coil) to drop the v…

Ever wanted to replace those annoying and plain gauges in your corolla. specifically a KE70?.. sorry guys I only have a KE70. here's how. (pics coming later when I get camera) WHAT YOU NEED -------------------- - Flat head and Phillips head Screw Drivers - Sand Paper - PVA Glue - Clear Coat - Computer with Scanner and Printer - Razor Blade - Scissors - Photoshop - fine point biro or other thin but blunt object - (optional) coloured spray paint STEP 1 REMOVING IT ALL ----------------------------- - Well first step is of course to remove the dash. this involves removing the dash surround and the dash itself. - then you'll need to push in the fo…

Hey all I made this document for pat, to help him chooze his corolla, but i may as well show it to every 1 else to see what they can learn from it - or tell me if theres stuff ive missed out / need to add etc. Corollas – 1980 to 1984 by Teddy Ok, I have made up a few pages to try and help you when it comes to getting your old last RWD edition corolla. I'll explain the differences between the models, what each model came with and anything else u should know. First up, ill explain a bit about the models and stuff… In Australia, we got the Ke70, Ae71 as the main sort of RWD corollas. (1980 – 1984) There were others, but I wont go into that detail on this…

“Teddy's Crash Course Tutorial on how to make your boot modern!â€� Hello Everyone! In this tutorial, I will show you how to make your boot look brand new - on a budget. First up, this will work on any older model car - if you put effort into making it, The Results won't disappoint you. For starters, here are all the tools you need... Tools - Sharp knife with extra blades - Tape measure - Race tape - Scissors - Tweezers - Old Pain Brushes - Old Tooth Brush - Good old Metho - Chalk - WHITE - Old Cups - Face Mask - Black & Red Permanente markers - As Many Crocodile Clips as you can get / Pegs - 4 Heavy Books, all available scissor ja…

Hi I'm new to this page and am wondering if anyone can tell me if corolla and corona share the same suspension layout, wanting to put coilovers in my 86 corona WAGON but having trouble finding anything, alot of corolla suspension is available so I'm wondering if they are similar, would I need to swop control arms etc or would the coilovers bolt in to my existing hubs/control arms, or is it not possible at all. Any help/advice would be much appreciated thanks!

When reassembling an engine, assuming one gets, all the right bits, in all the right places, & bolt tensions are correct, there is not too many procedures that can go wrong, assuming, you "take your time". However, one area, where the novice can come unstuck, is setting ring gaps, if you are fitting a new set; particularly if the block has been rebored. The following article on HP Academy, is probably one of the best I have read, in a long time. https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/get-your-gap-right-piston-ring-gap-explored/ Cheers Banjo

Excellent job Golberg going over the 4AGE Cooling System. I wanted to add one bit of added info on Cooling System potential problems. Upon purchase and receipt of a used 16V Large Port head of completely unknown history I proceeded to completely disassemble it. One thing I did note was the small drillings in the eyebrow cooling passages on the combustion face side of the head were nearly completely blocked. The material appears to be one of those pour in your cooling system things used to seal up minor leaks. Three of the four openings were very much plugged and took a hand spinning a drill bit to open things up. I have another large port head and compared how deep the dr…

As summer in Greece (my country) came,my poor freshly rebuild 3K-(B),known as bkoki,engine died cause it had some threads broken from the oil filter base so it leaked from there and destroyed almost all the rod bearings,so I had to pull her out again... .The thing is,I also have a semi rebuild(not yet ready) 2K engine,and I thought it for a while,as I have bloki apart,I might use the modigied camshaft ro build a 2K-B cammed engine for the summer!The cam is a 288 10,14mm lift cam,nothing too special,just revy,when it comes to profile I think is 25/65 I can't remember .What do you think???Will it work???Also i'm going ro be. using a 3K ported head to 30mm inlet and 26mm dia…

I'm posting this for people who may be stuck on ideas how to get there new fangdagley speedometer to work on a old car. You could go buy a converter or you could make one. This cost me $20 for the hall sensor unit. All the rest was stuff laying around. My speedo needed atleast 3000 pulses/km. A T50 gearbox speedo drive is around 700rev / km. So to stay on the safe side i cut 9 teeth into a blank of sheet metal. This is the decoder wheel. I gutted the original speedo just leaving behind the attachment for the cable. To attach the wheel onto the shaft i found a old hi-fi knob. I punched out the brass boss. The ID is a perfect fit. Same ID Knob The wheel wa…

OK, this was a little side-job when I fitted the RA60 diff to the KE70. On this style of drum brakes there is a leading shoe and a trailing shoe. The leading edge is the one nearest the hydraulic cylinder in the direction of rotation, so that is the edge that gets pushed out onto the drum and bites. It is the one towards the front of the car. As the shoe pivots on the bottom pin, the bottom of the shoe does not get pushed out as much and does not work as hard. Obviously having a slave cylinder at the bottom would fix this, but be more expensive and complicated. The trailing edge is the top of the other shoe, it gets pushed out by the cylinder but the edge does n…

Heres a run down on how I did it. The belts, conveniently labeled. Make sure you get all the bolts and bits. The original mounting bolts are way too short, so you need the longer coupe bolts. First of all you want the coupe belts as they have the strap that goes from the roof to the shoulder, saves a normal belt from cutting into your neck. As per this picture. So the KE1* belts have the upper and lower mounting points, the coupe belts need a third anchor point. So I utilised the lower stock point as for both both the lower mounts. As you may notice the mounting point on the floor is flat, the belts need to be mounted like so... …

Front strut/shock absorber removal and replace. Do one side at a time so that the other side can be used as reference. First up, tools needed Wheel Brace (not shown) 1/2in rachet handle 1/2in Flex handle/Breaker Bar 1/2in Short Extension 19mm 1/2in socket 17mm 1/2in socket 14mm 1/2in socket 17mm Flare Nut spanner Brake bleeder - eg: one-man brake bleeder 8mm open-ended spanner (or adjustable spanner) (not shown) Pliers Spring Compressors Jack Stands Jack Length of 4x2 timber or something similiar Optional Tools 1/2in Air Rachet 1/2in Impact Wrench Hydraulic Jack 21mm Deep socket Bench Vice (not shown) Parts Container (not shown) - Ice co…

I spent a lot of time reading through the threads available for the AE92 4A-FC 1587cc twin cam 16 valve first phase motor. I've owned mine for 5 years and driven it from 205000 to 360000kms. I've spent many hours keeping it on the road and trying more innovative things to improve the standard intake and exaust systems. After spending last night and this morning scourging the 16 pages of the "General Mechanical" forum i've come up with the best near standard cost effective way of keeping an old motor on its toes. I spent 3 hours this morning rectifing and readjusting the old girl. I will attempt to convey some important information for noobs attempting to race their stan…

thanks admins for moving this into the right section! My car came with a shelf under the dash that had been water damaged and was pretty much useless!! i like the idea so i thought i would improve on it! the shelf itself is made of masonite and is not very strong so i am going to share what i did to make mine better. my original shelf. this is what I'm replacing the masonite with, 3mm steel sheet!! on the original shelf drill out the existing rivets so you can keep the fittings and stuff. keep these bits as youll need them later! use the original shelf to trace onto the steel sheet, trace the holes and these cut outs as well…

Hi, Tonight on my KE15 I wanted to put my new bushes I had recived for the car in now a lot of people can find this hard so I thought Id post up a way I did it that was easy and can be done with limited tools. Well first off tool list: (this is a rought guid I used this but others may not need some of the tools) 1 Car scissor jack from boot 1 Bottle hydrulic jack. I had a 2 tonne and a 5 tonne both fitted in a KE1X where needed so use what fits. 1 flat blade screw driver 1 saw of any type or really sharp knife 1 12mm spanner (might be different on other cars) 1 hammer 1 drift (wood or metal or anything will work) optional 1 G- clamp Ok now you have …

deleted

ok got a set of rims that have seen better days? want to restore the shine and lustre? this is how i do it the rim in question anodizing is milky and there are some scratches and not really shiny also centres need a refinish step 1 remove wheel off the car step 2 if it is a 2 /3 piece rim unbolt the centre i will be getting my centre sandblasted and powder coated (cost approx $30 per centre ) step 3 dependant on the surface condition sand back with sand paper for badly corroded / scratched rims I start with 40 grit to remove all damage ALWAYS SAND AROUND THE RIM >>>NEVER ACROSS and use long strokes keep rot…

This seems to be a common problem as its happened to a couple of my cars, so I thought I'd do a quick 'how to' while I fixed mine as both were broken... Step 1. Use a dremmel to grind back whats left of the broken platic seat. Step 2. Sit a suitably sized washer over the hole so that its centred and hold it there. Step 3. Glue the washer to the plastic from behind. I'm using hot glue, but sickaflex would probably be better. Step 4. Use a black permanent marker to hide the washer as some of it can still be seen with the screw in. Step 5. Re-fit to car! :hmm: