Taz_Rx

I don't think you're going to be able to use panno windows in a hardtop! :thumbsup: Remember a hardtop is pillar-less (no B pillars) were as the panno has a frame around the top of the window as per normal.

S'all good mate, I don't hold grudges.

Man I was only 2 when dicky did that!! So I won't feel as old as some here will. :thumbsup:

haha thats lucky, I have a good LHS one and a rooted RHS one. I think you could guess my preferred payment method for that! :thumbsup: Oh, K'sev have Girlock (brand) calipers just like late '55's. Mark - Are your seats reclinable or fixed back? sending you a PM now. :y:

Yeah Knox carpets are really good, I've had one in my mazda for like 7 years. Mine is the super plush though so I can't really comment on the loop pile. I'm sure the would be just as good as the plush's though. As you may be aware they come with no holes in them what so ever. With the above in mind RE shifter hole, with no console I would probably cut the hole in the carpet just smaller than the plate (with the 4x bolts in it) than holes the boot down. Then unbolt the plate, slip the carpet under it and bolt it back down. Obviously the plate might benefit with a brush with a wire brush and a coat of paint.

No there's no other required mods. However there is some other supporting mods that will help you get the most of the weber, ie a more free flowing exhaust system. If the car has sat for 2 years you might want to give her a bit of a recondition...... Mind you its a K motor so it would still start and run even if it sat for 20 years!!! :thumbsup:

Is there any reason why you want or need to keep a stock carby? >$200 could get you a small downdraft (28/32 32/32 etc) weber and an adapter plate which will give you a bit better perfromance.

Hey mate, didn't realise you're in Tassie. Where about do you live? I'm also the Tas regional leader BTW. Yes you'll pass a RWC with no console, provided you tidy those wires up. Did you buy a Knox carpet? If I were you I'd be trying to find a console for it. That way it'll tiny things up even more, give you storage space or somewhere for a headunit, plus you won't need to worry about what the whole you cut for the shifter looks like.

Yeah mate can still use the points dizzy. 4ke had no ECU ignition control so its just and input trigger. If you were to use an aftermarket ECU that can also control igniton then you can use an elec dizzy as the input trigger. Its still a single pulse trigger so you can't run anything sequentially but you can control the ignition curve and then just use the dizzy cap for spark distrobution.

I could probably dig you out a Girlock caliper!?

I can personally garentee you that Matt won't screw you over. He's a mature guy, not a teenager, and as he owns his own business he's probably also quite busy. He also doesn't seem to come on here much now that he doesn't have a rolla anymore. Give a few more days and if you haven't heard anything I will PM you a contact number for him :thumbsup: Edit: I also just sent him an email for you.

Yes. Seam welding is a good idea for any car thats going to spend a bit of time on a race track. :thumbsup:

Several reasons: To be different To learn about turbos, EFI etc The love of the indestructable K and IMHO because 4AGE's aren't all they're cracked up to be

Its pretty easy to work out yourself. Have a look at the back of the cluster with the green circuit board wrapped over it. Identify which wires attached to the fuel guage (at the actual guage end) and then trace them back through the circuit board (its like a little green race track :y: ) and you can then work out which wire it is on the plug. :thumbsup:

Don't laugh. :y: I have a home made K series crank angle sensor in the shed. Only other thing I really need to set my engine set up with sequentially fired injection and quad coil packs is the 3x other coils and ignitors. Then its just a matter of re-configuring the ECU. If you haven't seen my turbo car before then click "tar" in my sig. :thumbsup:

+1 If having it there will make you feel better do what other have said and weld in an old tow bar mount... or hell, just a bit of steel pipe. All three will do 2/10's of SFA. Just because it has an Ay Jay Pee Ess sticker on it doesn't mean its any good.

Still looks like he got out of it a lot better than old Dicky did back in '83!!! For the kiddies who don't know what I'm talking about....

The thing on the firewall with a vacuum line going to it then would be the MAP sensor. If there is just a straight vacuum line going from the compressor cover to the wastegate then there cannot be any type of boost control. :thumbsup:

It won't. It'll just fire all of the injectors (as a bank) every time the coil sparks. To have sequentially fired injector as you're thinking of requires a crank angle sensor or some sort of other 'dual pulse' trigger.

IIRC xE7x centres are just slightly larger than a '55 one. Like 6" and 6.25".

Have you looked into getting an E-boost or some other sort of EBC? You could fix your boost drop with one of them. Do you know if the stock ECU is to blame for the boost drop? surely it must have some sort of built in boost control!? :thumbsup: If there's some sort of solenoid (for the ECU) in the actuator line then maybe see if you can bypass it for interests sake. The MAP sensor will compensate for the extra boost (or rather consistent boost) so don't worry about damaging your motor.

Get a length of barbed wire make a loop at one end and slip it over your tenticles. Then attache the other end of the wire to the brake pedal. :thumbsup:

Found for a 3rd time? :thumbsup: What on a car somewhere or like for sale on a forum? Either way great you got them back. :y:

Have you had a look at the usual CAMS regs? Just basic stuff like steel valve caps, secured batterys etc

I know, I know. But its wording like that that could get you in some trouble. The "Fan" you're referring to in the front of your turbo is called a COMPRESSOR wheel. I'm trying to assist you in preventing some confusion. :blush: