kickn5k

The 7k is not a "bolt in" conversion though, still requires sump or crossmember mods to fit. The 5k is the biggest "bolt in" engine.

Good to hear Matt. You really need to up the comp now! 👍

That's awesome news Colin. All the best for a short stay..

Winning..

Looking good mate!! Bring it north for a test and tune at heathcote park.

What type of 5k? Mild, hot, boosted? A mild 5k id go, 0.3mm on the top two rings(could run the second a touch tighter on a stock N/A) and oil ring rails 0.27-0.3mm. Never file the expander(zig zag ring)of a 3 piece oil ring it sets the tension. Usual rule of thumb is 4 thousandths of an inch per inch of bore diameter. Plus more for boosted engines.

How true. As Matt said good to hear on her being more stable. Hopefully not finding a source is a good sign too. Thoughts and best wishes mate.

It's not a legal conversion in the majority of states in Australia, so very few if any that are on here would have done it. I think it's going to be something that you will have to run a tape measure over both and work it out.

Sorry, but the door was left open so I had too. I'm with Dave, I'd drive the car first and see what it's like. My ke11 is really light but my 1600 is reasonably heavy at car park speeds(that's got something to do with the geometry and the massive lump FJ20 turbo). Dave's hybrid type setup could be a good thing. I've also seen holden electric power steer, fitted it makes for a really neat engine bay(no pump). I also found a company in QLD that do a complete electric column that does speed sensitive adjustments. I'll dig up the link when I'm home.

The gym.....

Not to be a hater, but zip ties for holding battery wire instead of rubber insert p-clips and welding two plates under the battery when nutserts would be such a better option. Must be running out of cash.

Was thinking that would be the bracket that you were going for. Had no idea about the extra leniency on air bag cars though, good info to know. A mustang work sponsors, dipped a bit under that and he was surprised at how much more is needed for it. God I'd love to see this with a split mono leaf setup, a VE head and 50psi from a gtx35!!! I'll stop trying to spend your money right now..

This thing has been fun, for the $1600 investment. I'd just finished the water pump and cooling system fix, fixed the seats and general finish off a couple dayd before we headed out, on our annual fishing/camping week long trip to lake Eildon(over mid year schol hols). With no time to float/test everything, we decided that we'd take a punt and take it anyway, another mate has a 19ft half cab and could tow me if needed. It dead set didn't miss a beat all week, started first kick every morning I went out trolling, which is saying something for a 39yr old outboard considering morning temps were below 3deg every day. It trolls great for a 115hp ski boat, I do have to use a render bucket I transformed into a "sea anchor" to slow it down a little at idle. But it got me to camp and more importantly was christened with three trout. I got two browns at 42 and 47cm and a mate nabbed a chunky 45cm rainbow.

Looking sweet Matt, out of curiosity what et are you teching it for?

Sorry mate I thought I'd replied. General consensus here, is if they broke through, you have 2 choices. First is send it to the srap metal guy and second is bore out until there is no bore and use "wet sleeves", same as what Keith was saying. A company like darton would be who you'd speak to, I've made a set at work years ago and I'd never, never do it again(the exorbitant price is well worth it). "Grout" or "Hard Block" is what you are thinking of, I wouldn't like to trust it not to move once operating. But it may work, I haven't been game enough to try.haha My problem is that I have 2 std bore 5k blocks to choose from so ill be fine for at least another 15 years or so.

Tell me about it, for starters I've given away maybe 4 k50 gearboxes but that's just the start, I remember in the mid to late 90's helping a mate chop up 3 rough LC torana gtr's to build a mock up, I've also cut up a 1 of 100 310 pack, black over silver, VC sle commodore.

Yes definitely lucky. Sorry wasn't hating, I'd actually pressed post before I finished. What I was meaning was they'll be advised it would be a good idea to sell for "insert reason here" and they'll list it for stupid money that they know it won't sell for. wife sees car for sale it makes her happy, you know happy wife, happy life sort of thing. What I do find amusing is these cashed up bogans, buying rough, "survivor" A9X and L34 toranas for $350k!?!? I only know as a mate I've known for 30yrs old man bought that one from Lloyds recently. I don't get it.

Prince skylines stagnated price wise about 8yr ago. 240k's and 1600's on the other hand have skyrocketed. I've got my 1600 for sale atm for $32k and it's had 4 offers in the first week. One was a zx12r bike motored s600 convertible that is stunning, a nice s14 and an 8sec vg30 turbo scorpion. I've had one cash offer of $23k which is a bit more than what it owes me but with so much interest I turned it down. 500hp 1600's sell for $28-35k. Hence it's for sale. I think the other reason for the high prices is wifes/gfs telling the parter it's me or the car(happened to me twice thats why I'm single)

All my suppliers sell .5,1.00 and 1.5mm(or .020, .040 and .060") oversize pistons. I also know of at least 5 83mm 5k engines getting around. So definitely can be bored.

K motors don't have liners. The block is a 1 piece unit.

It only needs to adhere to the epa regs for year of manufacturer Banjo. The California regs didn't come in until '74. Only two things that are needed are PCV recirc and noise. I had a look at the car today, it will be fine as it was. I run an early rocker cover with no pcv, it's vented to atmosphere and never gave me issues during rego and engineer cert.

A tinny/dingy was what I was looking for at first. That's the reason I got this thing, transport to our camping/fishing spot at Lake Eilden. One 17ft half cab was just not enough with 4 blokes, camping gear and alcohol.

Wow, now thats a grave dig!!

So getting back to fixing the issues. Steering cable: when i bought the boat the steering was locked solid. So I removed the cable from the wheel at the front and then from the motor, steering wheel turned nice and the outboard was swinging so the cable must be seized. The boat hadn't been used for about 3 years and the grease at the outboard end had solidified locking the shaft end of the cable. So I cut a coke bottle off, taped it to the sheath of the cable, filled it with the strongest de-greaser i had and left it overnight. In the morning a few taps with a rubber mallet one way and slide hammer the other had it moving. Left it to dry then used the same method to oil it, I also appled some fresh marine grease on the shaft end. Now works perfectly and saved me $150 for a new custom length cable.

I only use because big terry uses it...