ke70dave

got any links to back up your engine weight claim? i reckon the rb30 could potentially be heavier than the v6. one advantage of the v6 is it is alot shorter than the rb30, help with that beloved weight distribution.

where does he live?

nope i can't imagine me doing that....or enjoying any bit of it. 2hrs at dream world is enough for 1 major ride? if that?

excuse my ignorance, but why not just use the complete 2y/4y engine? with whatever gearbox came in the van? apart form the academic exercise, i don't really see the point in trying to combine the two? I'm open to corrections of course.

in his defense the FAQ is somewhat lacking (my bad...) there is a list of parts i think at the moment. but yeah give it a bit of a google, plenty of info around. Ive done the conversion so if you have any specific q's you are welcome to send a PM my way.

well the 4age 16v's all definitely have the dizzy out the side. http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/265/3881/25661940005_large.jpg you werent looking at a 4afe or 4afc? they are out the back.

only the 20v's, not the 16v's. 16v's dizzy sticks out the side of the engine.

care to elaborate?

my s15 silvia came with a cheapo HID kit installed from the outside of the car, it certainly looked cool. gave it that modern look we all love. but the light they put out was a bit weird...very very white, and quite intense. one started flicker, so i threw them out and got some narva "blue power, 80% more light, 20% whiter light" bulbs, about 75bucks. just standard replacement bulbs. result? narvas kick ass over the HID's, soooo much light, and light that is actually useful for seeing things. and no crappy balasts to worry about. moral to the story, a good HID kit in a proper housing is good (ie a hid kit that is $500+, not the $99 forum special) a crap hid kit in a non hid housing = worse than standard bulbs.

its not far off. read this. http://www.news.com.au/national/taxi-passenger-awarded-more-than-760k-after-being-delivered-to-wrong-address/story-e6frfkvr-1226056148541 when are people going to take responsibility for their own actions?

have a google mate, there are soooo many turbo ke70's around these days. found this http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/14414-3sgte-KE70-For-Sale. looks pretty reasonably stealth to me: paint it black and knowone will notice anything. though this one protrudes below the beaver panel a bit, be nice if it was mounted a bit higher perhaps.

1991 pinyada eh. same as the ford corsair at the time i think... my mate had the corsair with the 2L, wasnt all that flash, wasnt that bad though. nice interior if i remember correctly. from wiki the 2.4L is the ka24e, which is what came in the s13's/14's in america (just a fun fact for ya!) i think a twinky corolla is a better choice though. probably lighter, a bit smaller, and more horsepowers for less capacity!

hehe. the thing is. noone on here (that i can tell) has any quantitative evidence to suggest which oil is better than any other. only evidence is how the engine sounds and feels. which is compeltely subjective to the user. what is more important than which oil, is how often it is changed. keep oil changes regular and the weight of the oil in the ballpark of where its supposed to be (mineral oil, HPR30ish) and you wont have any problems.

if you find my members ride (back quite a number of pages...) there is some decent photos of how i did mine, pretty much same as spencer, hacked the standard bumper and attached the chrome one. you need to shorten the mounts as the chrome bumpers arent as thick as the plastic ones.

rear speaker + cable ties holding it in + crash + speaker to the back of the head =death. other than that, pretty funny.

for no real quantitatve reason i have always been a penrite fan.

ahh i see, makes sense. well in that case, maybe you can get away with using the standard strut tops? then use some longer LCA's + camber LCA bolts to adjust your cambers.

carburetor is exactly the same. thare are butterflys in a carby as well remember...2 of them infact. rollaboy, just dive under the bonnet of your car, remove the air filter, find your throttle cable, and have a long hard look at it. you should figure out how it works, and by the sounds of it you should be able to feel the slack in the cable. loosen and adjust the nuts appropriately, re-tighten and give it a go. if the idle changes, you have gone to far, re-adjust... good plan with the upgrade in car. not worth it putting a 4age in this car, just buy a car with one. if you arent hellbent on toyota, consider a SSS pulsar, my brother just picked up a 1999 model for $6.2k, electric everything, comfy as, and quite a bit of poke to it!

what do you mean camber tops don't line up? that is quite a nice setup yo uhave there destroyer, and you can't argue with the price. agreed prices of 86 gear are through the roof, but every now and then normal priced items come up.... last year i bought some 86 struts converted to coilvoers (no springs, shocks or camber tops), with hubs, jap calipers/discs etc! for $250! right place right time i guess.

car is looking really good mate. loving the style, don't paint it all those weird colors though! nice clean white lines is where its at. one thing i can suggest, those corner parker lenses there, somehow i managed to find some clear ones, like a crystal looking. not crystal...but like "glass" looking, not the faded plastic color. made the car look a tad moddern. i think the ones i found at the wreckers are aftermarket replacements, i think ive seen them on ebay from time to time.

hey mate, do a bit more research. its not as simple as "bolting it in" fuel system, differential, brakes, suspension, custom tailshaft, intercooler piping, exhaust, wiring...all needs to be done. i dare say a shop will charge you upwards of 15k-20k for that. even if you do all the work yourself, and even though you have the engine already, you are still looking at 5k+ in parts.

who knows whats defectable. non adr, he said it was because it had "solid centre" (no padding) he didnt even know, he quoted an ADR number (66), turned out to be the ADR for seats..... but 100bucks and 1 point, cheaper than it could have been at the time. i really want to get pulled over now, ive not got to show a cop my mod plates yet :(

i think you would get more than a defect sticker if they wanted you to! i think being unregistered voids your 3rd party insurance, which is the greatest concern. lucky eh. if we are talking about close calls, few yrs ago when i my car was...shall we say...in its early stages of development....(all different colours, and VERY poor paint, only mod is a nardi classic wheel) .i got followed home by a high way patrol car at about 4pm in the arvo, i live near a cop station so i guess they were just in the neighbour. i pull into carport, lock up car, get out, and the cop car parks across the carport (still on the street, but blocking the driveway) one cop gets out and starts aggressively asking me questions about if i had any defects, any mods, was it legal, can you please open it up etc etc. i start opening the door, and my dad walks out side, he asks "any problem officer", they go (in a nice friendly voice mind you...) "nah all good" he turns to me and sais, "keep driving safely mate, and have a good arvo" cop gets back in his car, and drives off. thanks dad! worst case scenario i get a defect for the nardi (which i got few yrs later anyway...), but yeah i think they were just picking on me, wanted to waste my time a bit. was actually pretty funny, dad scared off the cops.

for those prices.....waste of cash if you ask me. cheaper to make your own, and you will get better dampers! ae86 bare struts - 200 or so (including brakes, hubs etc) weld on coilover kit with chosen spring rate (please low!), - about $300 a pair of shocks, bilstein are around 300 each, kyb are about 200/pair. pair of camber tops - 250 brand new (Whatever 2nd hand) find a decent welder that will do something for cheap, do all the cutting yourself or at least mark it out very well for him. say $100 for this. kyb's - 200+300+200+250+100 = 1050 bilstin - 1450 and if you go the bilsteins, your front end will kick ass over any of those other brands mentioned, and be comfy too!

best bet is to convert to ae86 front end, then just use ae86 coilovers. heaps of expensive name brand systems available. else convert your t18 sturts to coilovers if you really want the adjustment (alot cheaper than most people think) else just buy some lowered springs and short stroke shocks. Coilovers are over rated if you don't need the height adjustment (which most people don't, as they never get their car corner weighed anyway)