ke70dave

Try gslrallsport. Ive bought plenty of shocks and brake parts through them. Cheaper than repco normal price and shipped to your door in a day or two. http://www.gslrallysport.com

No fuel pump in there. Itll be attached to your engine! One drip of petrok will have the whole cabin smelling of petrol. Nasty stuff. Like the others have said wait till you are low/empty of petrol and pull that cover off. There is a gasket under the rim which has probably seen better days, try and buy a new one rather than using epoxy, for when you want to take it appart again. And yeah some epoxy around that connector thingo for the fuel gauge will stop it leaking there

Ahhh. Well permatex grey smeared on might do it. Though depends if the leak is bad enough to penetrate the grey while its drying. Perhaps a putty of some kind might be better.

Where is it leaking? Where the centre bolts in? If so,Id pop the axels out, remove tailshaft, drop centre out, put some permatex grey on the face and let it dry for a few hrs before filling with oil. Ive sealed many diffs with permatex grey and it works good.

Generally if you arent willing to diy, cars will always be a massive money pit. 2000 doesnt get you much labour amd parts on a 10yr old car with 270,000kms. But after you do all that you should get some more years out of it, and 2000 is cheaper than a new car....

What sized tyres you thinking?

Nice one. I put a steering wheel cover like that on a damaged wheel on one of my cars. I actually stiched it on using braided fishing line (of all things....) it worked surprisingly well. And felt nice I the hands being so tight on the wheel. So that might be a quick fix for you until you get some new leather.

Use the following formular to work out approx how much pressure you will get from one cylinder to the other.... P1v1/t1= p2v2/t2 Assume temp is constant to get an idea. You will need to take into account the volume of the "pipe" between your cylinders. I would guess that to double the pressure ratio (ie 14.7psi in the cylinder) you will need maybe 3x the volume in the "compressing" cylinder than in your combustion cylinder. Assuming the shortest route possible between both cylinders. Now how are you going to cool the compressed air? You can't intercool as you will be adding volume that your compressor can't keep up with. Also you have the power losses assocoat with compressing the air. You also have alot of mass you are spinning/moving so there is losses from that too. What you are describing is a supercharger, but superchargers are rotary vane and can move alot more air. And they are also geared down (up?) So they spin much more revolutions per engine crank rpm than your idea.

yeah I reckon make use of it you can, handy light to have. The early rx7s have a coolant level switch in the radiator that I always wanted to adapt to my cars.

What have you done so far to try to buy one? Ignorance is not an excuse for not trying....

Go to a place that will give you a before and after report. Also decide on your settings and write them down and give to the guy doing the alignment. Then before you pay compare it to the "after" report....

Might pay to look into the lagalities of such an endevour. I wouldnt think you could make any mods to the seat belt system, especially going from a 3 point to a lap style 2 point.

These sorts of threads normally don't go so well as it boils dowm to the fact that its only worth what someome is willing to pay. Questions that immediatly come to mind for me.... -more photos of car needed especially interior and engine bay -brakes? -suspension? -wheels/tyres? -does it have lsd? -why does the bonnet look bent? Rotary in a 40yr old corolla is going to attract unique buyers so you might have some trouble selling it depending on how much you were thinking. Ballpark figure.....1/3 of the total amount of money it cost to build it.

Intersting idea. But I can't see how it will work practically. A standard consumer turbine assembly is very lighy and wont like anything attached to it. Especially if its a bush bearing style. Alot of turbo setups that have lots of lag are due to wrong turbo charger selection. Pick the right turbo and use highish comoressiom ratio and most of the lag disappears. And tune it well of course. Plenty lf ignition timing off boost to keep it lively. Slightly overdriving a turbo out of its peak efficiency is fine if you have the intercooling. So you can go a bit smaller to get boost in the lower rpms. Ps. That f1 turbo setup is awesome.

Looks like a great start. If I were you id fix all the rust properly. I did some dodgy fixes on my old ke70 but the rust came back in a year or two after I painted it.

Google images certainly suggests that is a 1zz and it certainly isnt a 20v Maybe it has 20v quad throttles adapted? Looks like a pretty damn fun car though. Got any more pics or videos for my own curiosity?

Thats a fairly new car (compared to what we a play with) so I would think that any decent car glass mob should be able to sort you out. If I were you I would ring toyota first to see how much for the genuine part to ensure the fog lines are good qualify. Your car is getting to the age where maybe genuine parts are getting cheap enough to consider. I would still bet an aftermarket screen will be cheaper. I wouldnt change glass myself. I got a whole new windscreen replaced and installed with a new seal for $200 once (aftermarket jobby) so its not worth your time learning how to do it and buying tools etc. Too much to go wrong with diy (cracking your new screen and water leaking inside)

Got any compression? I assume you did the valve clearances?

I don't know if you are aware but the cam covers are interchangeable from left to right. So if you reckon its a breather issue you can get another breather cam cover for the side that doesnt have one and swap it over. I can't say I have heard of cam seal blowing out. Id probably change it out and see if it happenes again in case it was a faulty seal? But then again you wouldnt think a cam seal would be faulty:s

Wait what happends to idl-e2 if you spin the tps to closed throttle position? Ithink It should go to zero assumimg you are using ground as the other wire on your multi meter.

Getting 12v at the tps rings bells for me as my understanding is they run off the 5v rail in the ecu and sweep 0-5v. A tps is just a voltage divider (electronics term). Is your loom hacked up? Might pay to trace the tps wires all the way back to the ecu.

don't worry too much. Any oil is better than no oil.

Give it a good clean with degreaser. Fill it up with oil so you don't do proper damage to your engine, just buy cheap stuff in case you need to waste it. A spun bearing is alot harder to fix than a dripping oil leak. Then give it a few days and see if you can see the leak. Maybe even take a few pics for us if you like. Going purely off your description I reckon its either the sump gasket or the front main seal. As there isnt much else to leak oil. If you are willing to learn no job on a 4age is too hard. Most jobs on a 4age can be done with basic tools and a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench they are a good investment.

Are you able to do the install and initial tuning yourself? I personally would be going with an aftermarket one. Lots more options. Have you found anyone that can reflash the standard ecu? I can't say I have heard of anyone getting it done. A turbo 4age is a very simple engine to run so basically any ecu will do. I picked up an old haltech e8 for $200 which would do the job nicely.

Id get the injectors tested and cleaned if you don't knoe their history, a mobile guy shouldnt charge you more than $140ish. My 4age was spluttering amd carrying on and it was just dirty injectors. Perhaos in your case the injectors work ok with long opening duration but light duties they start to spray funny and don't deliver fuel properly? Just guessing really.....