ke70dave

yeah i woudlnt be working towards a ke30 being a drift car. an s13 or similar is the way. my brother just bought an unregistered s14 with trick suspension, turbo sr20, and an LSD for $4,000 to get the same in a ke30 your looking at alot more cash, and it will never be as good. drifting is all about having cheap available go fast bits and cheap available replacement bits for broken stuff, both of which the ke30 doesnt have.

So is it for sale or not?

Alrighty here you go then, so you want to put a 1uzfe engine into your corolla, remember it is a 40yr old corolla that never came with a v8 and the biggest engine it came with is what a 1.8L 4clr carby. and the engine you want to put in is a quad cam v8 that is 15yrs old that comes out of a luxury lexus vehicle. At a minimum you are going to need to sort out the following: -what transmission are you going to use? people make bell housings to attach various gearboxes, the gearbox you use will depend on what you can get easily. -make sure the engine physically fits into the car, you are most likely going to need to modify either the transmission tunnel or the engine sump. -clutch to suit -hydraulic clutch setup in your car (if you don't have one already). match the clutch master with the slave so it works properly. -custom made engine mounts -custom made gearbox mounts -you want to use That diff? you need to fit the entire cradle into the back of your corolla ASSUMING that it is an appropriate width, which it probably isn't. So you basically need to redesign and fabricate the floor pan of your corolla. -custom tail shaft once you have the diff mounted. -suspension points in the rear of the car fabricated, as the standard ones wont work anymore. -fuel system for your new v8 (bigger pump and a surge tank), larger fuel lines for the length of the car. maybe even a fuel cell depending how how your floor pan mods go. -Engine management system, can the stock one be used? i dunno maybe, need to work out if you can wire it into your car (is there issues with security systems from the LS400?) if not its aftermarket ecu time and associated issues and costs with that. -exhaust manifolds, are the standard ones going to fit? will it hit the steering arm? or anything else? might need custom ones -full exhaust from one end to the other. -fit an appropriately sized radiator and a fan, v8 is going to make heaps of heat, so design this well -Prolly need to put the battery in the boot to make things fit easier -Think long and hard about the suspension you are going to use, you now have a chunky v8 in a tiny corolla. spring rates? where does the shock sit in its travel? short stroke shocks? coilovers? what shocks? do you need to correct the roll centre in the back or the front of the car? -brakes you needs brakes, big brakes. what brakes can you make work with the suspension you chose? do you need a bigger mastercylinder? is the booster and mastercylinder going to fit with your V8? brake balance? -wheels and tyres, you need to pick these based on your new rear diff setup and your front setup you choose. you want GOOD tyres for a v8 corolla. -do you need to fit a roll cage so you don't crumple into a ball? -racing seat so you don't fall out first corner? -Is any of the above actually legal in your country? As you can see, many questions. and unfortunately there are no one correct answers to any of them they will be based on what parts you have available and your ability to modify or make parts. Also remember you are basically creating a brand new car. Car manufactures take years designing a car to make it work well as a package.

Sure you can use that diff if you try really hard. You got any fabrication experience Drake?

"Cobble" is definitely the word to use. Built on a students wage from working at coles. but hey, it worked!

You can just get the locks changed at a locksmith too. Somehow managed to delete my post below, but I suggested to buy my ke70 locks that owen is parting out.

Ah stringfellow was your navi hey. Ive known stringy for years. I saw a video on his facebook where this car made a brief appearance, sounded quite excellent.

Bit of toyota s800 love.

That is a monster hit. Luckily the front bar was the straighter of the two! I sold that over 4yrs ago now. Time flies.

Sounds like a fun project. Do you know the history on the 2T? Does it run?

Very nice work mate. You doing all the welding/fabricating yourself? I still see you are rockin' that quote in your signature, that is going back a few years now!

Nice result! Happy days.

Check out the engine in this. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Model-T-1923/SSE-AD-2931455/?Cr=0&sdmvc=1

Man thats alot of effort to make it 2 door! Will be a rocket with that engine. You going to register it?

I have a feeling i have that on my computer at home. I'll see if i can find it tonight. Checked torrent websites?

Greetings mate, welcome to the roller club. Just gotta remember that we are talking about 40yr old cars here, so its not so much what common problems are, the cars are so old that basically anything can have deteriorated by now just due to the age. Take my 30 yr old Suzuki sierra that i have, its only done 160,000kms, but i have had to replace lots of odd and obscure things (rubber seals, bearings etc), not because of the kms or it being looked after or not, its just because that after 30yrs things just wear out! That being said, like the sierra,the ke corolla is a very simple car, and its really is the basis of automotive "technology". Points distributor, carburetor, very simple drive line etc. If you are into tinkering and potting about under the bonnet, then you will have no trouble maintaining it. You just have to remember, like i said, that the car is old, and even if its been looked after by the previous owner, there's a good chance its going to need basically constant tinkering and maintenance to keep it 100% reliable. Not necessarily major jobs, but to keep them in 100% you need to keep an eye on things and act quickly when things come up. (ie deal with the noisy bearing before it collapses and ruins more things). As for tools, you can basically do everything with a socket set, spanner set and some screw drivers and some pliers. The trick is as you start doing jobs, you might need an additional tool or two which you pickup while buying parts, and over the years you start to build up a good tool set. I started with a socket set, and although i now have quite a few additional tools, generally I only use the basics for most jobs. If you ever need to change any bearings that require a press (eg axel bearings), I usually just take the axel itself down to a mechanic and get him to swap it over for me. Easy and means i don't need to buy a press. Also remember, that fixing engines and mechanicals are much easier than fixing rust and dents. So if i were you id look for the best body you can with no rust and dents and good paint. Even if it needs a whole new engine, that will be much easier and cheaper than fixing dents and respraying the car. As for price, well they vary so much, but i wouldn't be spending 3-4k unless it was 100% spotless. A runner but needs work, $500. running and on the road but not registered $500-$1500. Running Registered, great condition, evidence of major repairs done well, $1500-$2500. Major restoration completed, $2500 + The coupes will be "worth" more than the 4 door variants. As for modified ones, modifications don't tend to add too much to the price. Need to make sure mods are done well or they can cause more dramas than they are worth! But like i said, easy car to work on, so you can pick up a bargain that isnt running and get it going yourself. anyway, hope this helps.

The standard ke70 radiator is a full copper unit which id guess would be on par with a similar sized full aftermarket aluminium (pending thickness) So if you actually need a new radiator (ie check rest of system first) i would just get a new standard radiator.

I'd be trying a spare pump before trying any crazy go nuts modifications. Also perhaps try cracking the fuel cap to let air in/out. perhaps the fuel tank vent is blocked causing vacuum and the tank pump can't keep up?

3k dizzy would have points? if so did you adjust these? If you haven't replaced them in a while, best to get some new points, they cost like $8.

We have a ~2010 mazda 2 at work.....it feels freaking small to drive, and very go kart, and it is surprisingly large inside, fits 4 of us guys quite comfortably. It actually feels very good to drive. Possibly this is close to the type of car you are after.

Perhaps give the ECU a reset (disconnect battery and jump on the brakes etc). see if it goes away? or alternatively give it something to complain about (disconnect the TPS or map) and see what it does?

I used this brand back in the day. http://www.ebay.com....=item3f3389a3c5 You should be able to buy the bottom end gaskets in a kit too. Are you suggesting to reuse a head gasket? is it completely made of metal?

probably something like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-KE10-KE15-KE20-KE25-1967-73-Rear-Wheel-Bearing-Kit-Kelpro-KWB2881-/190856224839 if you have the axle out you can measure the bearing to confirm. The size is given in that ebay listing. But i would definitely try and get a good quality bearing like a Koyo. Ive had cheap bearings fail after 10,000kms. If you can get the old bearing out, take it to a bearing shop and get them to supply them to you.

I suspect they have made some improvements in the tyre compounds in 30years as well. So its likely that you can reduce the width of the tyre and have sufficient grip due to the better tyre compound. A 155 width tyre in an R compound is way grippier than a 235 in china special tyre compound. Hopefully they have also sorted out how to make tyres last longer with good compound, else you will be replacing the skinny tyres more often.....further driving up the cost of owning a new car.

My mates club man has a standard big port with some sort of upgraded camshafts and an aftermarket ecu to suit. We think the cams are fairly aggressive, though it idles pretty smoothly. It really screams in the high rpms compared to my old factory big port though. So i think if i was playing with 4ages again that's the route id take. Though its hard to get an idea on how detrimental the cams were to the low rpms as the clubman is so light its fast across all rpms.....