ke70dave

Welcome to rollaclub. Sounds good man, but where are the photos?!

Very nice. Doesn't need to be a show car to be a race car! I'm enjoying the color coded wiper motor.

I've been reading Shantaram - by Gregory David Roberts. I don't read books much, but this one has got me hooked at the moment.

E85 is ALOT different to normal petrol, and alot different to the E10. e10 = 10% ethanol, 90% normal petrol E85 = 85% ethanol, 15% fuel. (approx) You need like ~30% more e85 to get the same energy as ordinary petrol. Persumably on a carby you just need to make the Jets alot bigger to compensate for this extra fuel. Other problem with E85 is that the ratio of ethanal to petrol is not consistent, that's why cars that come from the factor "E85 ready" have a sensor that can detect the ethanol/fuel ratio and make changes to the tune as required. The ethanol in E85 is also known to eat rubber, so you would need to change all the fuel hoses, and any seals and gaskets, to ones that can withstand the e85 fuel. Most guys convert their cars to e85 for the fact that it is about ~105 octane, great for highly strung high compression turbo engines that run agressive ignition timing. I'm not sure you would see much advantage on an old K motor? We converted my mates 12a turbo to e85, it went better, but reality is, 200km to a tank and hardly any fuel stations around carrying it, we felt it wasn't worth the trouble.

And not really the best option, but i did use them for years with no dramas. what springs/shocks do you have in the front? Equally as important as the springs in the back is the shocks in the back, you should go for a short stroke shock to keep the springs captiv

haha that's ridiculous. 10,000 bucks for a smashed car and all the modifications come in a box. Sadly he paid ~$60 to put that advert up too.

Problem with NRCAs is its not really how the strut design is supposed to work... Strut is supposed to put force straight down into the ball joint, the bolts wont really see any sideways forces as everything is in a straight line. With the NRCA the forces sort of take a dogleg, and will put odd forces on the bolts. Its quite possible that they will be perfectly fine for road use, but yeah id prefer to go with normal RCAs, and get your camber using either camber tops or slightly longer LCAs.

Let me know if you are interested, i could start developing some code when i get home next thurs. I've got an arduino and been looking for a project to work on it with.

hmmmm. It's probably one of the more complicated ways to do it, but its also a good way to learn micro controllers. Once you know microcontrollers, you can build anything! -Arduino mini board - ~$10 ebay -use a voltage divider on an anlogue pin to measure the voltage. -use a digital out pin to drive a relay to control your supercharger -write code to do whatever you want to do with it. I have made a few things with the arduino, really quite easy as far as programming microcontrollers go (designed for noobs). But it is programming in C, so depends how much you know about programming as to how easy it is. It's probably possible to do it using only analogue electronics, but i don't know enough about electronics to design a circuit that does it.

Microcontroller? Arduino is cheap as. What exactly are you trying to achieve? You jut want to turn the sc off when tps< 5%?or something?

Problem with datalogging on a carby car is what are you going to datalog against? I think you really need to datalog against RPM, MAP, TPS to get any sort of real information out of it, and doing that on a carby car its starts getting complicated... I have had experience with two, the innovated LC1 and the NGK powerdex. Since you won't be interfacing it with a laptop, the NGK one might suit you better as it comes with a LCD screen so you can read it straight off. its got a nice box, the LCD was a bit bright at night..... The innovate LC1 that we had didn't have a screen (but i believe you can buy them for extra $$), we interfaced it with megasquirt ECU fine. we did have issues with 2 LC1 control units exploding (replaced on warranty), but the LC2 is out now, which might be better. If i was buying one i would most likely go for the powerdex, just for the LCD screen. The NGK uses a bosch sensor, which some say is superior to others.

The amount of damage on the rear of the ke70 from the bull bar on that ute is quite extraordinary considering it was hit from the front, that getz must have been absolutely flying.

I'd be surprised if anything exists to be honest. Why not just lower the engine in and make mounts to suit? 13B is side mounted, as opposed to front mounted 12a, so should be fairly straight forward.

This is the onyl timing light ive used... http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_18435.jpg if yours has a coil, then perhaps its designed to go around the ignition lead (so the ignition lead can induce a current in the coil) you got a pic of the 4afe cap? the plugs should just come off? yours look like this? http://www.am-autoimages.com/partphoto/EDC/AM-36199898/middle_1.JPG

Looks like this one? http://www.gumtree.c...ina-/1050537652 As for resale value, only worth what someone will pay. Pretty rare with the diesel, but 300,000kms won't work in your favour.. " Toyoya caldina $500 ono toyota caldina 1996. Diesel !! Super cheap to run!! Start and Run good .. cold air con. Paint fade on bonnet and roof. Interior still in good condition. Battery is 3 month old ... Engine has slightly oil leak.<br/>Still a daily drive up until now. New car just arrived. Selling cheap !!!<br/>Car currently registered but selling with NO rego .. No Rwc.<br/>Can drop the car off and take the rego plates off at buyer address (gold coast only).<br/><br/> Sorry, this ad is no longer available."

I saw this thing on the road maybe 6 months ago, i think i posted some photos up here somewhere. Soo damn cool.

Passenger side, under the distributor towards the back of the block apparently. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/37258-4ac-engine-number-location/

Timing light just clips around cylinder 1 spark plug cable? You shouldn't have to undo anything to connect timing light.

Safe and comfortable hey. Essentially i don't see how its possible to have the 'swaggy drift look' without being considered unsafe to some, and uncomfortable to everyone. Safe: All tyres have a recommended wheel size for the associated tyre size. eg: http://www.federaltyres.com.au/tyres/high-performance/595 Anything outside that range, in my oppinion (and the opinion of the authorities and tyre manufactures) is considered unsafe. it is unsafe to have tyres as stretch as 165 on a 8" rim, that is why the tyre manufactures don't recommend it. comfort: With 15" tyres you are going to have a 50 or 55 profile anyway, so your comfort wont be lost in your tyres. But to get the "swaggy drift look", the car is going to be low, so you are going to want suitable suspension. Good suspension for a ke70 that is very low can be a bit complex, but is crucial so you do not hit the bump stops on the shocks and so the shocks control the springs. what offset are these 8" rims? i suggest you put good sized tyres on them, an 8" should really have a 205 or even higher, 195 50 on an 8" is a too stretched for my liking. Why not go a 15x7 with a 195 R15 r15. perfect tyre size for the wheel and perfect tyre and wheel size for the car? Choose the correct offset and you can get the tyres nice and close to the guards while being legal and safe.

and panel van fronts are way cooler than quad lights!

yeah that's stuffed.

Hmm yeah 165 is too big, wasnt sure how wide we made it. I think you might be right with the filter, just drop it into a hole in the box. makes it easy to make too, just need to make sure that our clipping method is reliable.

Schweet lookin kp. Wish we had them in aus! but yeah I'm not really a fan of the facespace linking, I didnt even know people were using it for documenting build threads?

It woud be nice to have the air filter go all the way along the bottom of our box. One option might be subaru non turbo airbox. They have a long skinny air box that sits where the intercooler is on the turbo models. (possibly liberty?) Ignore the green circle..note the airbox. http://i146.photobuc...zpsa63b8477.jpg and here is the filter size http://www.rycofilte...ies//part/A1426 which is 371mm long apparently, our box was only 400 long wasnt it? pretty close. edit: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Subaru-Liberty-Gen-3-Air-Box-Assembly-98-03-Perfect-Condition-/321450105218?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4ad7eb5982 thats the one i mean i think.

awww man, i love it. thatt RIGHT hand tail light looks good......