ke70dave

So the shock fits in the camber top, but not in the spring hat? You could jsut machine the spring hat to fit? but it would need to be machined in a way so that it still sits on the groove on the shock shaft (so the spring hat doesnt just slide down the shock shaft) edit: yep just looking at the photos again. I'd machine the internal hole of the tophat down so it just fits around shaft and sits on that first chamfer. any machine shop will do it (even an engien building shop will do it), and if you take down the shock to show them exactly what htey want, they will do it perfectly. I would avoid talking to anyone on the phone, just walk in with bits in hand. how is the fit of the camber top on the shock? if its not a good fit (ie nice and snug) id suggest getting something made to make it a snug fit.

I had an adaptor made up for my kyb shocks into my camber plates. But my issue was the shock was too small, are you saying the shock is too big to fit into the tophat/camber plate?

I love it! Cool body shape. Pretty bloody low!

I actually locked up my suzuki sierra distributer on the weekend (installed a haltech to run the ignition advance) Someone had tried to lock it before but it wasnt all that successful. I just used some copper wire and wrapped it around th screws that held the advance, and another screw that was on the stationary housing. Seems to be working well so far. though i might put a tab of locktite on the screws to avoid the 40 deg timing...

If you converted the front to 4 x 114.3, then you could use an R31 diff which is 4 x 114.3 and has an LSD option (the standard rubbish cone LSD from the silhouette, or the KAAZ aftermarket option). I would suggest doing the differential once and doing it right. A good reliable diff setup will potentailly cost you more than an engine conversion.

It's all about choosing the correct shock and setting up the where you cut and weld the body so that at static height your shock is about half way through its stroke. And choosing a correct length spring that at full compression isn't bottomed out and at full droop are just captive. Also good thing about coilovers is that even if the springs aren't entirely captive they can't go anywhere.

looks good. You could buy some leater, cut out a peice the same shape as the peice you removed, and stitch it back on? I did somethign simliar in that i got one of those wheel covers from supercheap auto, and then stiched it onto my suzuki sierra wheel to make it nice and tight. I just used that braided fishing line (as its all i had) and its been going great for a year or so. but you could go and see an upholstere and see if you can buy the stuff they use to stich with?

Those are the big questions really. And just remember that if you choose a crazy conversion, its possible that you will pour thousands of dollars into it, and not have it anywhere near finished or even driveable. That can be quite disheartening and many people cut their losses and sell for cheap.

Video would be good to see!

Last week I bought a haltech E8 with a 3 bar GM map sensor and gineric patch loom for $200. Sold to me as "its stuffed you can't remove the password, it will need to go to haltech to get fixed which is expensive" Got it home, plugged it in, removed password in about 5 seconds, updated the firmware to the latest last night and it all works great on my desk.

Why do you want to do that? It wont bolt in and for the same effort you could have many other engines in there. This this a case of "i have a 2sc and i want to put it in my ke70 cause i got it for free" type project? Cause they are never a good idea.

yeah same as any small car really. Can you even buy a car with 14" wheels anymore? Even the corolla is 17" i think? Maybe a switft or a Micra has 14". Yarris is almost the new corolla if you're going on size, but even they arent that big. I parked my 2000 wrx next to a 2013 wrx the other day at the shops. My car looks like a match box car against that monstrosity.

How much fuel are we talking about and how long has it been sitting?

Problem these days is ca18dets are getting hard to find in usable condition, so you'll have to rebuild them. And for the added rebuild cost you might as well go an sr20det from like an s15, then you get VCT an alloy block and an additional 0.2L and a 6 speed! and all of it is 15yrs newer than a ca18det. Whats an s15 half cut worth these days? 2.5k? you'd be lucky to rebuild a stuffed a ca18det for much less than that.

What are they and how much do they cost? look pretty cool.

Assuming you are meaning between the inlet of the turbo and the carby, doesn't this indicate a huge vacuum leak?

yeah I'm confused at the wastegate comments. Altezzas comment recomendation fo putting fuel (or any propelant) in after the turbo to see if it kicks over is where I would start.

You want to make sure both surfaces are perfectly flat though. ie get a razor blade and spend some time on both surfaces.

Would also depend on if the head has been shaved, the type of headgasket, and exactly what 4age (specifically the pistons) you are talking about. (I dunno the answer though, just prompting more information so others may be able to help)

I'm sure its possible to do it all in the car, but with the size of a 4k you migth as well jsut take it out. Then you can put it on an engine stand and be comfortable while working on it. You will have to remove the crank to get the pistons out, that wont be fun upside down under a car!

yeah if you can drive it and its not making horrible grinding noises or pissing out oil out the exhaust then it is not "blown". Sounds like it just needs that exhaust leak fixed and a tune up. But yeah you are wasting your time doing anything untill you get that exhaust leak fixed.

What does a "blown engine" mean to you? Start by fixing things you know about, ie that manifold gasket. It's quite possible that is your problem, and if it is not the root cause of the problem it will certainly not be helping thats for sure. No engine likes air leaks. Once you have fixed things you know about you can move on with the diagnosis.

Why isnt the 3.8 v6 N/A legal? NCOP for vehilcs between 800-1100kg is Maximum ccs' = original mass x 4 Thats like 4L or so if a corona is around 1000kg (which i think it would be possible over 1100kg, which is original mass x 5) Not sure if vic has adopted NCOP. Best bet to ring an engineer to get the real story.

Got given Event Cinema Gold class tickets for christmas, went to book a movie for this saturday, they want $3 each to use a voucher, and $3.25 each to book online, plus $1 each for 3d glasses. i can live with the 2 x $1 for 3d glasses (as not all movies require them) But $12.50 to book with a gift voucher? out of control. I used to buy gold class tickets reasonable often for people as gifts, not any more. Not much of a gift if you have to pay $12.50 just to use it.

So its not that it doesnt turn over, but its that its difficult to start when it is hot? here is a bit of an explanation that i think covers my thoughts "HARD STARTING, HOT Difficult starting of a hot vehicle from 5 minutes to an hour after the engine has been operated, can be caused by the volatility of modern fuel. If you have this problem; try using the following method to start the engine: DON’T touch the footfeed (VERY important). Crank the engine over from three to 5 seconds (different vehicles will respond to different times); and then GENTLY (so as not to activate the accelerator pump) press the footfeed approximately 1/3 of its travel. The engine should start, and may run rough. Run the engine at a high idle for about 10 seconds. This issue is caused by volatility of modern fuel. Once the engine has been shut off, the gasoline is heated by the latent heat of the engine, and percolates the fuel from the bowl into the throttle area, forming a mixture that is too rich to fire. If you push the footfeed to the floor (as has been the traditional method of “unloading” a flooded engine) the gasoline continues to flow into the engine (again due to the volatility). By not touching the footfeed, you do not open the throttle plates, and the engine will pump the overrich mixture out of the tailpipe. Once the overrich mixture has been alleviated, gently opening the throttle will allow the engine to start." Essentially what it is saying is that the petrol in the carburetta boils when you turn off the engine, causing a very rich mixture inside the carburetta/intake manifold. So rich in fact that it doesnt fire. giving it more air (the accelerator pedal) should lean it out enough to get it to fire, or at least pump the rich mixture through the engine. I thought the fuel solenoid valve in the caburetta was supposed to stop this. Sounds like the fuel solenoid in the carburetta might be worth looking at.