ke70dave

Problem is 10K wont get you all the way if you are talking about the entire car and doing it properly. To be perfectly honest i would look out for someone selling an almost finished complete car that the owner is selling for cheap. If for nothing else than to transfer all the parts onto your car, you can even sell some in order to buy other parts. But if you do the math on what it costs to properly build a car like you are talking about from scratch even with doing all the work yourself id say by the time you have the engine, transmission, differential, suspension, interiour, wheels, tyres, brakes, seats, gauges, ecu, paint, all done good and proper the first time, you're talking like 15k i reckon. there was a 4agte ke70 for sale either on here or gumtree, which if you knocked him down a bit would be somethign worth considering.

Fracture mechanics ;) A crack will start at an imperfection in the grain structure of the aluminium. The crack will proporgate when put under stress and off it goes until it meets the edge of the aluminium.

White smoke is not a good sign. Are you losing any coolant?

Just watch the threads you are bumping up mate, this one is over 6months old.

Don't expect it to last much longer if it's pinging. Pinging turbos are very bad.

The 7afe would have a diagnosis port yeah? And it would do diagnostic test and will tell you the code of the sensor that is stuffed (if there is one, sounds like there is one)

The reality Is the only person who's opinion counts is the engineer who is going to approve it.

How much does this microtech owe you? The E6x is a nice ECU no reprogramming required.

Works like this: Distributer spins with engine rpm, tells the ecu via the reluctor sensor where the engine is in its stroke, at the right time (the bit you "tune") the ecu sends a signal through to the ignitor, the ignitor then fires the coil, the spark from the coil travels through the distributor cap and rotor while the rotor is pointed at the correct igntion lead, spark plug fires, happy days. Remember there are essentially 2 parts to a distributer, the bit that distributes the spark (the rotor and cap), and the bit that keeps track of when the spark needs to be fired (either points in old school distributers, or the reluctor sensor in an electronic one). A "CAS" is essentially an electronic distributer with more trigger points and without the rotor/cap arrangement to distribute the spark.

From a bit of a google it sounds like its preprogrammed and must be sent back to get it changed. which is a pain beacuse you will be dealing with a non standard arrangement and you want to make sure you are absolutely sure what the trigger patten is before you do it. I pesonally would try and get a 4agze cas onto your 4kc. perhaps you can combine a 4agze cas and a 4kc distributer together? so you get the gearside of the 4kc distributor and the electronic 4agze cas. Gonna take some thought though and some custom machining. The 4agze cas has 2 wheels in it, it has a 24 tooth with and a 4 tooth "home" signal (check these numbers). it is quite advanced and will allow sequential fuel injection, where as if you get it to work with your 4kc distributor all you will have is batch fired injection. Also one thing you can look into, alot of the 4age guys put a 4kc distribtor onto their 4ages when they run carbies. a 4agze cas bolts up to a 4age, so you are basically doing the opposite of this (4age cas onto a 4kc). So perhaps do a bit of research on this.

yeah you got no chance of getting it to work unless you use a 4agze CAS then, which i don't belive you can put into a 4kc. I dunno how much you know about trigger patterns and how the ECU works, but essentially you program in what the trigger pattern of your CAS is, and if you give it something different (ie different trigger pattern) you will get zero results.

hmm its difficult to destroy the igntion module, i have one of those as well, i connected it up wrong and it got so hot i thought it was going to spontaneously combust....still works! From this: http://microtechefi.com/download/LT8_%20STD%20IGNw.pdf You need to find the two wires in your locked distributer that connect to the sensor. and sounds like you connect them to red and blue on the ignition input 4 pin plug. Did you do do this? But yeah like i said, you wont get anywhere unless you can change the internal settings.

Can someone else tell me if the 4ku dizzy is hall effect? I'm almost certain it would be. The hall efect is basically a bit of metal that a magnet passes over, and as the magent passes over current is generatged in the metal. and as the current direction switches as the magnet passes over the ecu picks this up as a trigger event. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor The hall effect sensor itself has two wires on it, and these should go straight into your microtech. Polarity is important though. You got a wiring diagram for the lt8? But you arnet going to get anywhere unless you can get inside it and change the settings. The trigger setting needs to be single pulse per ignition event with the trigger angle set to 180degrees. (as you get 4 triggers per 720 degrees, so its 1 per 180 of the crank) You are going to need an ignition module as well for the ecu to drive the coil. What are your plans for this? Ive got an old laptop here with a serial port which i use on my E8. Where abouts are you located?

An electronic distributor with a Hall effect sensor should drive the microtech if the microtech can be setup so that it receives 1 pulse per spark event. I did this exact same thing with an electronic distributor on my suzuki g13a with a haltech e8. Electronic distributors come from 5k's? I think.

What subs and amps are you currently running? and what sort of power cable do you have powering your amps? And how loud is it ?:S

Actually looked like the bonnet was all rusty.

Spotted this at stones corner today, gave the driver a thumbs up!

A new fuel filter would be a good idea too.

Some cool stuff here. http://www.brdracing.com/2tc_3tc_intakes.htm I see there is a "DIY sidedraft manifold". myabe they can at least give you the flanges for the 2T and SUs? and you get it welded up locally.

Paddock basher hey. Cut the springs?

Not much of my ke70 left there thats for sure. Looks friggen incredible with the new paint, well done mate. I thought it had died with the owner i sold it to, but you have resurected it. ....sounds amazing too.

What are you going to do about the distributer? its the same as a 4age conversion (google that) except the inlet manifold points the wrong way, there are no RWD extractors that i know of, and the distributer protrudes ~20mm out of the back of the head and will hit the firewall, and i don't belive there is an easy fix for this.

Might be as simple as the ignition timing is out.

hmm that makes sense. I wonder if i can convert it to mechanical secondaries...tis an aisin carb after all, and some of them had mechanical secondaries. I will alter the timing around the 1500rpm @ ~0kpa and see if it makes it better/worse. I might also shove my Gopro under the bonnet with a torch and see if i can see the delay in the secondaries opening..

All right so i got the carby all back together, started first go, and runs/drives well so i must have done something right. I also replaced all of the vacuum lines (all 50 thousand of them) However i have a question for you carby nuts. The engine is standard except for a set of extractors and about a 2" exhaust. However I am currently running a haltech E8 ecu to run the ignition side of things. If I'm at say 1500rpm in first gear just cruising along and i slam open the throttle (ie 10-100% throttle in less than 1/2 second), I get a reasonably large hesitation. If i just slow the throttle application a little bit (say roll onto the throttle to 50% then slam it open over say 1 second) it picks up perfectly fine. This does not appear to be an issue in higher revs (say 3000 +). As for the igntion tuning, I think the igntion map is pretty good. i based it off a 4age map of all things, but just dialed it back a bit at maximum advance. maximum advance at wide open throttle is around 28 deg. Howeever the above hesitation was present when i was just running the distributer, so i think its carby/fuel related, as opposed to ignition. The carby runs a vacuum operated seconday, would this have something to do with the hesitation? (i have proved the vacuum widget that operates the secondary works by sucking on the vac tube and i saw it moving) Or am i just asking too much of the carby to go to wide open throttle so quickly? or should i be looking at different jet sizes? (ive never actually changed jets) One theory i had was that the bigger exhaust was moving more air, so the hesitation i am feeling is a lean spot. I actually put a spacer under the accelerator pump spring on the carby so that the accelerator pump was actuator more, I think this helped, but i still get some hesitation.