ke70dave

My dad has always got chrome for by these guys. Always come out good, and most of his is for Marine use. He got an engine rocker cover for recently looks schmick. Queensland Chrome Plating Electroplating Service 423 Wondall Rd, Tingalpa QLD 4173 (07) 3893 2494

That's going to cost you a fortune! Does the big brake it come with brake caliper brackets?

Temperature sensor is a thermister, that changes Resistance based on the temperature. The problem is, for what ever reason, pretty much all manufactures use different thermisters which have a different resistance change per temperature, and often have a different rate of change as well. It is probably possible to correct an oem temperature sender to work with an aftermarket gauge, but you would need an aftermarket temperature sender anyway to measure the resistance in order to calibrate your additional resistors etc. If the non oem temp sensor doesn't fit the oem thread, you can easily get adaptors etc You really need to match the exact temperature sender to the gauge, else its not worth installing it (assuming you are installing it to get higher accuracy temperature readings) As for the oil pressure sender similar story. The standard oil pressure sender is a switch that turns on when the pressure is above a certain pressure. The "idiot light" standard oil pressure light works using this. An oil pressure sender designed for a gauge is a very different widget, it changes resistance based on pressure. Quite a complicated thing to do and they cost a fair few dollars (often the oil pressure sender costs more than the gauge). But remember the sender is what gives the accurate readings. In my opinion unless you have a highly modified engine (different bearing clearances etc) and you are actually worried about the exact oil pressure, the idiot light is all you need as all you want to know is do you have oil pressure or not. My brother installed an oil pressure gauge in his drifo car, wired it all up, fired up the engine, gauge moves to about half, he looks at me and sais "how do i know if the pressure is good enough", i turn around and said "put the damn idiot light back in".

NPT is a tapered thread, so isnt it supposed to "bind up"?

If you can do suspension and brakes you can do a 4age engine conversion! But yeah suspension and brakes first, while collecting parts for your 4age.

You might want to be careful because the t50 gbox cross member would be a custom job, so someone else's installation might have a slightly different length tail shaft than yours.

One of the big issues is what to do about the distributor. I always thought a 7afe would be good in RWD, especially in my suzuki sierra. but havent figued out what to do with the distributor. That water outlet might be difficult to deal with as well.

The cutting back of the clear coat really makes or breaks acrylic finish. Gotta be so patient and careful.

Where you located? John's Paint shed in lytton brisbane is very good. Ive sprayed in acrylic, my old ke70 was acrylic, and i recenetly did some speaker boxes in black which came out very good. Like piano black finish. The key is to get the air right so its not all orange pealy, put down LOTS of clear coat after (i did like 10 coats), then wait a few weeks untill the paint is hard, sand the clear back using 1500 gritt, and polish with cutting compound and your choice fine polish (turtle wax or whatecer) As for colour, pick a car and just walk into a decent paint shop and say you want that color. last time i was at johns paint shed they had these huge books with all the colours in it sorted by make/model. And you can modify the paint, ask for a bit darker etc. The paint shop is going to have to "custom" mix the colour anyway, so nothing wrong with making it a bit different. You could even buy a small amount of it and try it out. don't be afraid of metalic paint, i did ke70 in it and it turned out fine, no different to normal paint for amateurs. And yes you can just get them to remove the metalic from paint you want. Id be weary of non metalic grey, most ive seen look like someone has just put clear coat over the primer...

Pick something that you are 100% confident you can finish completely.

And at least new shocks if not slightly stiffer ones. Nothing worse than stiffer springs on stuffed shocks.

Interestingly a digital gauge will add in some latency as opposed to a pure analogue gauge won't have that latency. But I suspect the stepper motor in a digital gauge will be faster than your regular analogue gauge.

yeah to go from hero to zero i don't think would be anything fuel related except the fuel solenoid (would be fairly rare for that to fail). First check id do is check for spark by removing a spark plug, leaving it attached to the lead, and grounding the body and seeing if it sparks when you crank it. (Using a rag or something to hold the spark plug...)

But for $3000 though, you might get close on the sr20 or ca18 but you certainly wont have the brakes and suspension to go with it. Also depends how much you can DIY.

Or buy a bigger car to put it in. like an ma70 supra, or even an e30 bmw. Have you any idea on the work required to get it to work in a ke70? Essentially anything that is bolted to the ke70 shell, needs to go in the bin and something custom put in.

Timing belt is only done every 100,000km remember too. Not like it's that often. Interestingly lots of new cars are reverting back to chain.

~2001 AE112 corolla with either the 4afe 1.6L or the 1.8L 7afe. I got one of them, and its great car for everything, simple to work on and uses stuff all petrol (my 1.8L gets on average around 6-7L/100) Why you are afraid of timing belt?, no dramas. or grab a mid 90s toyota starlet, but they are a bit tooo small i think. the corolla is slightly bigger and feels great on the highway at 110.

yeah get the standard carby running 100% before you start playing with webbers, then you will have experience to play with the webber. I just put a kit through an aisin carb the other week, good fun, but make sure you do it on a big clean table, few small bits that can go missing. Make sure you clean out the carby insides too and clean out all the jets. Biggest thing with carbies is they must be clean inside, any bit of dirt can block a jet and that can cause all sorts of issue (that was my issue). as for not idling and stalling, that could be a vacuum leak, so as mentinoed check all of the little pipes around the carby. its also worth replacing all the vacuum hoses. just buy like 2m of vac hose and replace everything. i also did this on a 30yr old carby and i reckon every single hose must have been leaking as they were in such bad condition.

Have those holes been elongated?

The issue is that generally you arent moving the stud far enough to get a nice clean hole in the camber plate. you can always just make a new camber plate. get 2 bits of aluminium laser cut the same but with the holes in the proper spot. Here is some photos of how close the holes are, from those photos i think its fair to say you wont get enough material in the camber plate to drill a new hole. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/50551-ae86-front-end-suspension-brakes-into-ke55/

Oh i like that, very nice.

If this is actually your first engine conversion and you don't have much experience with fabrication, id highly suggest something that bolts in, either a 4k efi, a 5k or a 4age (any of the 4age verients, 4agze, 20v, even a 4agte). yes it is "the norm", but they are easily achievable by a backyarder with limited experience. As mentioned though there are some kits floating around that make lots of engines "bolt in". But generally getting the engine to bolt in is the cheap and easy part. wiring, intecooler hoses, water passages, supension to make it work, brakes to stop it. That's where the time and money adds up.

Assuming the tyres arent flat..Could be anything bent from the crash. steering rack, rack ends, tie rod ends, ball joints, control arms, castor arms, shock absorbers, top hats on the front struts. Being "very very hard to turn" i would be looking at the steering rack itself perhaps to start with. Jack up the front wheels and see if its still hard to turn. and if it is, undo the tie rod ends from the steering arm s you can move the steering rack and the wheels independantly to try and isolatet the problem. I once had a ke70 steering rack that was very hard to turn, suspected it was bent inside and binding up, I don't know how it happend (bought car like it). It's quite possible it was damaged in a crash.

The silhouette came with some strange kind of LSD, which as far as i can tell are pretty useless unless recently rebuilt. But you can buy a KAAZ 2 way to "drop" into the R31 diff. The best way to figure out brakes/suspension is to spend a few hrs trawling through build threads. So many different options out there, and if you can work a lathe your options are essentially endless. though you might want to contact an engineer first to see what the do's and don'ts arent. as for the turbo calc, this is a good place to start http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml Along with learning how to read a turbine compressor map. It's quite complex but there is no easy way to do it....and once you start understanding it its really good. Also depends what you want to do with the car. as in a street car you can get away with overdriving a smaller turbo for epic response (getting outside optimum efficiency on the compressor map, and generating a bit more heat for the intercooler to try and take care of) as you arent going to be full throttle all the time. But for a track car you prolly don't want to generate as much heat so you want to pick a turbo that spends the majority of the time at peak efficiency to avoid excess heat. (which generally is a bit bigger turbo, but not always)

Or higher compression gze with a properly sized turbo.