LittleRedSpirit

Yeah its no big deal. I'm going to the mechanics today to drop off some bits for my motor, ill take photos of the water kit and hose arrangement I have if anyone wants to see them.

I've used the Yager fitting for about a year, maybe more, Id have to check my thread for how long exactly. I considered drilling a hole in the thermostat, but I don't think there's much need. The thermostat heats up quicker being stuck to the head, than if it were remote with a bypass. Mine would open and close two or three times in the first five minutes of driving, then stay open. Temperatures were reasonably consistent. I used a 65 degree thermostat which gives you a much longer period of open thermostat once warm before the thermostat wants to cycle. According to my very accurate temperature measurements, I recorded more stable engine temps in general, compared to a remote thermostat. With my remote thermostat setup I observed constant swings of temperature as measured by the ecu of around 20 degrees centigrade. This was reduced to less frequent intervals and a 10 degree Centigrade swing with the lower temperature thermostat and Yager fitting. I wouldnt build a 20v in rwd without one.

You don't buy coilovers, you make them.

When Beerhead did his 20v with coilpacks he paid about 100 bucks to have a perfectly suited set of leads made.

All the trouble Ive gone to collecting parts from all over, overseas etc, with the intention of being the only one with that front end rolling around Brissy. And you just roll past a Ford wrecker and find the whole damn car. I'm off to torch my garage, see yas. Nah seriously, awesome find, I call dibbs if you sell it. Ill happily get it running.... Oh and please stop writing yo everytime you write JDM somewhere, thats not cool, yo. I don't know about you but I don't think its 1992 anymore. :P

Soooo not my type of car, but Habib loves it.

Hi guys and girls. I'm considering getting some custom extractors made, or finding a nice aftermarket set somewhere. I'm chasing torque, which most people tell me will mean 4-2-1 design with the longest runners possible, for a 4age. Lets please focus this discussion around inline 4 motors, I'm sure there is a whole different set of theories for V style motors and more cylinders. Is there anybody on rollaclub who can lend me their ideas, either as a professional who makes such things, maybe you had a set made which were good or bad for whatever reason. Just please feel free to give me the benefit of your experiences or wisdom on the subject.

Id have thought the lack of steering rack mounts on it might have been the first thing youd notice to tell you it wouldnt work. Bummer. Get the A series gear and go again.

Auto AE71 diffs have 4.1 ratio. The ratio is how many turns the tailshaft makes, compared to one rotation of the wheels. So if it currently rotates 3.9 times to one turn of the wheels, and the other 4.3, you will notice a few differences. Gear it down, eg swap 3.9 for 4.3 - lower top speed, better acceleration, closes gear ratios in the box seemingly. Revs higher at any given speed compared to the higher ratio diff. Go the other way from 4.3 to 3.9 and you increase top speed, decrease acceleraton, probably increase fuel economy due to cruising at lower rpms at any given speed.

This /\/\/\/\ is the kind of post which kills the forum. This one and the last one JUD made. Some people can never be happy to participate in something unless they can run it and control it on some level. Always subtly prodding and fighting the power with every post. If we moderate this type of person we will receive 5 or 10 irate pms from them who currently tells us to relax. Ive seen it so many times. There are so many people who 100 percent refuse to be moderated in any way. If one mod tells them to pull their head in, they threaten them. Next mod tells them the same thing, same response. Member gets banned, then we get legal threats for discrimination lawsuits, one idiot lately kept threatening to crush his own Corollas unless we let him back on immediately. We called his bluff and he said he didn't want to be part of a club full of young dickheads and the like who arent as into corollas as he is, anyway. Then he continued to threaten us with legal stuff to let him back on. Contradictions in terms. I point this out not to shame anyone, but to make the point about peoples reactions and how they play their cards in these situations. If you get a nasty PM from a mod or admin, then consider it a shot over the bow. If your posting habits don't become refined, then you will probably end up banned. you are welcome to PM another mod and ask if they thinks its fair, as long as you do it as a human. Forums do not refresh immediately, you have to manual refresh, therefore, the whole concept of chat doesn't even translate to a forum properly. As I understand forums, someone posts an idea. This idea promotes firstly thought and possibly further relevant information which others may share. Thus a thread develops. Chat, as in conversational language, leet speak, etc, doesn't belong here, and should be saved for msn or the like. If you complain that you use rollaclub because you arent allowed msn at work, then how about you go do your job and stop junking up rollaclub? Impress the mods? What are we, judging a prize pony at the royal Easter show? Trust me when I say that we don't care who you are or what you say to anyone as long as you don't bully, abuse, victimize, text speak or go off topic too frequently. This is a simple set of rules that no-one can seem to follow. Not following these simple basic rules will get your thread closed or deleted. Its really quite simple. Moderators from time to time overreact to things, to err on the side of caution, and just delete things rather than worry about the possible implications. We are always welcoming of human level communication asking why we did what we did. Instead, most people send us nasty PMs with legal or death threats, pointing out our perceived power complexes, questioning our maturity and love of corollas etc. The ball is always in the members court. There are only a handful of you that are under constant scrutiny by the moderators, and that scrutiny is well deserved by those individuals. If people could remain calm and composed, read things with their happy and relaxed hat on, instead of their 'I'm gonna smash his face' hat on, then we would have way less shitfights etc. Everyone has their own opinion on what rollaclub is or should be. We strive to rise above the usual 'oh its only the internet, just f@$king cause havock' mentality by representing ourselves intelligently, making friends not enemies, and banning the provocative shitheads that try to drag us down into that territory. Sometimes it takes real effort to follow the rules, get along with strangers and behave. Please try people! As for regional sections, they arent chat rooms. They arent an off topic section. Drunk, stupid, pointless chat threads don't last long. Promote local events, reach out to local members, organise events and cruises, introduce yourself to your new local people if you move etc. Anything else, if it can't be had in the off topic forum, its time for msn.

Twincam versions in ok condition go for around 1-2 thousand. The single cam shitters don't often break a grand on resale these days, unless its a particulary good example. Any really tidy car is worth good money to someone. I suggest you put some pictures up for us to look at.

More info and images added, will be constantly updated. Luke, If I did the 'washers pack out' trick then I'd have issues with my big ass intake tray fouling the terminal on the alternator cable. I have the idler pulley removed and I run a tiny little belt down there to save space.

Sounds like its all going well. Its gonna be a weapon. Youll have to tell us how it runs on the Microtech. Ive not used one on a TPS tune, and Ive heard they don't do it that well. Myths were meant to be broken I guess. I really like this car. Good to see it all come together.

Bypasses were only really brought about to warm motors up faster to reduce the rich cold running time at the start. Its more of an emissions idea than to smooth out any coolant flow, etc. Ive discussed it at length with my mechanic and he agrees its no problem. Bypasses weren't really the standard thing on a lot of older cars. There is no problem with cooling system pressure as the waterpump can only build pressure to a certain point, at which point it can back flow. The only precaution I used to take was making sure it was warm before I revved it out, which you should do anyhow. I think the Yager fitting costs around $150. They are out of stock at this time, but getting more soon. I was lucky enough to get mine from ebay for $100 shipped or so.

Engine/cooling/mounting and clutch Parts required 4age 20v engine filter socks yager motorsport front thermostat fitting modified rear cooling plate side water blockoff plate aftermarket engine computer dizzy cover AE86/71 clutch master cylinder AE71 manual pedal assembly if you have a ke70 Slave cylinder to suit the gearbox either jdm or adm 4age flywheel, 200mm or 212mm Clutch to suit, yes you can use the ae101 or ae111 clutch with 212mm flywheel rwd exhaust manifold/extractors coil and igniter, for wasted spark and custom leads or 1zzfe cop setup with inbuilt igniters AE86/AE71 engine mounts - steel and rubber sections. AE86/71 Engine crossmember AE71 manual gearbox crossmember for ke70 with AE71/AE86 rubber mount AE86 manual gearbox crossmember for AE86 with AE71/AE86 rubber mount AE71 manual tailshaft for borgwarner diff ke70/AE71/AE86 AE86 manual tailshaft for T series diff AE71/AE86/KE70 ADM AE86 tailshaft for S Series diff AE71/KE70/AE86 AE86AE71 Bellhousing braces KE70 throttle cable AE86/AE71 Starter motor AE86/AE71 sandwhich plate ADM or JDM T50 gearbox with AE86 or AE71 bellhousing vacuum hose efi fuel hose z386 oil filter and oil Prepare car by: Fitting efi fuel system Upgrading hoses to high pressure efi hoses fit engine crossmember if not already fitted fit hydraulic clutch setup if not already in the car, this may also include a pedal assembly from an ae71 if you own a ke70. Prepare motor by: Remove all the fwd related accessories, which is basically everything including the water fittings. You will end up with a pile like this: Fit a fresh water pump, seals, timing belt and tensioner. Remove the sump and de sludge, import motors will usually have a lot of crud in the sump clean the oil pickup and re seal the sump and pickup This is the cleanest of the import motors I had... remove the throttles and manifold to clean all the vacuum ports, marvel at the gunk that comes out, then refit. clean fuel injectors With blacktop throttles You can remove the vacuum line and fuel line array under the throttles, but leave all the struts supporting the throttles in place. Close the front vacuum hose connection with a bolt and alloy sealing washer, Effectively removing the connection. Fit spigot bearing to the crank. fit sandwich plate flywheel and align the clutch. fit the engine mounts to the motor. The alternator mount uses three bolts to the motor, one of which interferes with a rwd engine mount. This overcome by cutting the third bolt hole off the alternator mount. The alternator mount is a massive unit and this will not affect its strength. Fit the water fittings. - for the front of the motor, I'd recommend the Yager motor sport thermostat fitting. I had to do a bit of filing and grinding to get my Yager fitting to fit perfectly, around its top edge near the throttles. Bear in mind I had Blacktop throttles from an AE111 motor, so if you have the AE101 throttles, you should only do what you have to around the throttles, and I'm unsure what that is exactly. I had to remove the vacuum hose array with the fuel return in it, to fit the thermostat fitting. I just fitted a longer rubber section of efi hose instead for the fuel return. The front vacuum port can be closed off as you only need the rear one for the brake booster. The little valve hooked up to the throttle perch should stay there, so you will need to extend its hose and ensure it stays connected or you will idle high and uneven. Once installed, the fitting should look like this: You will also need to shave a few mm off of the alternator adjusting perch with a grinder, as the hose needs a mm or 3 to fit past it there. Thats about a 10 minute job. If you have the Yager fitting and need a new thermostat housing, its from a Mitsubishi Nimbus and is available over the counter at any Repco or Super Cheap etc. This removes the cooling system bypass and places the thermostat at the front of the head, connected to the top radiator hose. Its much easier to work on here and is a good place to have it, in my opinion. You then connect the water pump to the bottom radiator hose. - for the port behind the exhaust, just make a blanking off plate out of aluminium and seal it on with bluemaxx sealant. - for the rear of the motor, you can get some very thick aluminium plate cut and grooved, drilled and tapped to make a plate. Or you can modify the factory thermostat fitting and retain all the original sensor positions. Ive also heard that people just plate it off after machining a channel between the two ports. You need to insert a temp sensor or two there, also, so if you plate it you still have to drill and tap some holes in your blockoff plate, usually at least 2. Fitting, clearances, and special considerations. - If using an ADM T50 with the clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side, you may need a custom right angle fitting for the rubber hose connection to the slave. The Exhaust will come very close to it. - If you plan to run velocity stacks, you can only fit around 60mm stacks in the engine bay and still clear the brake booster. - Open throttles suck lots of hot air, so some sort of tray or cold air induction, or airbox is a good idea. - Id advise fitting a big thermofan, although the standard radiator from an AE71 or AE86 is fine to cool a 20valve. - You should fit an uprated battery to give more CCA. - Connect the factory purge solenoid to a switch or control it with your ecu. - Obviously the dizzy hits the firewall if left alone. Therefore you remove the cap and rotor button but leave the rest alone. Your ecu can use this to calculate ignition timing by itself. There are covers available from a few select places like the one in my pictures, which came from kaizen garage. Yager Contact Info: Yager Performance Motor Engineers & Repairers 97 Northcott Crs Alstonville NSW, 2477 Australia Contact Details Ph:(02) 6624 0247 Kaizen Garage Contact Info: Unknown at this time.

WGMG is my big brother. Hes 29 and he rang our mother to have a teary because I hung up on him. He phoned me the day after my car accident and his opening line was: "What the f@$k have you gone and done now?" I asked if he could be compassionate perhaps, and he started bringing up his issues with me from childhood, tit for tat style. Of course I hung up. Didnt even ask me how I was, and hasnt rung back. Gotta love family.

We love you big fella! Happy Birthday!!

The biker isn't well. He had no lacerations but he cracked his pelvis and broke 2 wrists. That's a bunch of painful and annoying injuries. Ill be ok in a few days. Hopefully by when I have to install some cupboards this week. My injuries are comparatively minor. I think I might be made of iron. Ive been through a windscreen, over the bars on motorbikes, hit by a car, and I've never broken a bone. I'm a lucky person, I guess. Sort of.

Hectic. Look at the dent in the 1/4 panel where you bunted me. Thats decent! You hit the opposite side to where the motor sits, how did the 4k fare?

I have only read the preface. So far the document seems to say all states have accepted this code of practice, and take responsibility for administrating in different ways, in some cases having specific differences in their requirements (mainly differences in administrating the National Code of Practice, is how it seems to read). Since the cars are assessed on a case by case basis there are few hard and fast rules for all cases. Also note its a working document that is updated periodically to change with the times. This means you should check it every year or so if you drive a modified vehicle.

Well you cannot access the pages as far as I could see, all the documents were blanked out. This National one was all i could find during my searches. I believe it will supersede the states at some point, Ill try to find the specifics.

No, but going by the code of practice theres only 2 things I need to change to get engineered. Is yours?

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/veh...n/vsb_ncop.aspx Id encourage anyone setting out on a build to have a few nights reading this novel. Its actually quite sensible, so follow it and they will have to give you a mod plate and you can stay on the road! don't forget to refer to the Australian Design Rules to see exactly what they mean when they refer to them! http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/mot...adr_online.aspx and thirdly, here is a general vehicle certification page. Its handy if you want to know whats involved in importing a car from overseas. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/mot...ards/index.aspx Enjoy!

If you want upgrades for ke35, you're in the wrong place. This thread is about similarities between xE7x cars. Try using the search function including google, reading peoples project threads, or if that fails start a new thread in the appropriate area and ask specific questions. Its not really sporting to hijack a thread with this much info on another chassis, with your own different info. Cheers.